L front axle leak

MHarryE · Feb 18, 2015

Hen I finished plowing snow today I oil dripping from the bottom of the LH front axle. Oil collected at the bottom cap but noticed most of the oil was on the inside of the rim. That can only come from a leaking axle seal. Tractor is a L5740hstc-3 with 630 hours. Replacement looks pretty straight forward except removing the inner bearing in order to slide off the gear for access to the outer bearing and seal calls for a special puller due to the limited clearance between the gear and the bearing. I have multiple 2 and 3 jaw pullers plus multiple crow foot bars that might do the job. Has anyone replaced an L series front axle seal? Is it as easy as it looks or am I going to do a lot of swearing. Heated garage so that part of the battle is okay. I tried going a search but any way I tried searching ended up with a minimum of 4,000 posts, most over 10,000 posts.

Greenfield Dave · Feb 18, 2015

I did my L4400 this spring. Not too bad. Replace the O ring around the case too while you are in there.

Here's the thread.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...g/318552-l4400-front-axle-leaking-grrrrr.html

MHarryE · Feb 18, 2015

Greenfield Dave said:
I did my L4400 this spring. Not too bad. Replace the O ring around the case too while you are in there. Here's the thread. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/318552-l4400-front-axle-leaking-grrrrr.html

Thanks! Just what I was looking for. Interesting to find that my response was immediately after the picture of your bearing failure telling how I had changed to 75W-90 synthetic in my axle. I have given my tractor quite a workout for the small tractor it is. Lots of load and carry and before I got my M135GX, rounded up big round bales on this end of our farm, a lot more load and carry. I still think it should have handled it but likely my bearing was one of those outliers with a material flaw that sent it on its way. Thank goodness for a heated garage to work in.

Greenfield Dave · Feb 19, 2015

Amen to the heated garage! The only issue I ran into changing it is the oil seal is pressed onto the axle, so it's a rubber/metal seal. You'll see once you get it apart. The new seal is a 2 piece seal. I had to use a cape chisel to get the old one off, using care not to scratch the axle. To reinstall it, I oiled the rubber part and used a short piece of 1 1/2 PVC to tap it evenly back onto the axle. Pretty straight forward..

MHarryE · Mar 2, 2015

Oldpath05 · May 9, 2015

700+ hrs. and I notice that my L3400 DT (front gear cases) is also leaking, just started this past week. I can see it seeping on inside of both front wheels, right where the front wheels turn back and forth, seals must be going bad. I was hoping that someone on here has fixed the leaking and showed some pics. Probably need special tools to fix it, I just have the basic wrenches, guess it's my turn to pay the dealer $500.00 to fix it.
A couple years ago I tried to get a front steering rod off because it got bent, tried a gear puller and that wouldn't budge it, so I welded a piece of flat bar on it while it was still on the tractor

CalG · May 9, 2015

One of the spindles leaks on the Hurlimann.

I just top off the axle from time to time. I've probably put in a couple of liters over 3 years.

Cheap compared to doing the reseal.

Oldpath05 · May 10, 2015

That's what I'll probably do this year, add some gear oil to front end when needed, I just hate things leaking. In the mean time I'll check around for a shop manual with better pictures then the one I have now. I can fix basic repairs if I have some good pics. to go by, my manual has a couple fuzzy pics. and a few diagrams that's useless far as I'm concerned.

I'm surprised there aren't more threads on this front end leaking problem, as near as I can tell, most CUT front ends have the same basic design, a poor design I think, but probably no other way of making a 4x4 tractor front end so it can steer with sharp turns, an ATV like front end can make sharp turns, but a tractor wouldn't work with cv joints, I'd be ripping axe boots all the time. Now I think I'll look up a (Hurlimann) and see what kind of tractor that is and who sells it.

SPYDERLK · May 10, 2015

You can use cornhead grease in the front diff and wheel spindles. Its EP, semifluid - wont drip out.

Oldpath05 · May 10, 2015

Cornhead grease, what the heck is that, by product from moonshine.

SPYDERLK · May 10, 2015

Oldpath05 said:
Cornhead grease, what the heck is that, by product from moonshine.

JD product #AN102562. Applications: corn head gear cases, irrigation gear boxes, problem solving grease for gear boxes with leaky seals. NLGI Grade No 0.

I use it in the BX front axle.

larry

Grateful11 · May 10, 2015

How would you get the grease down in there where it's needed and how would you know you had enough in it? Does it flow like a liquid?

SPYDERLK · May 11, 2015

In a leak situation where you are having to make up fluid periodically, I would just do the make ups with cornhead grease. It will ooz down following the escaping oil. It will seek its own level [barely] so just check with normal dipstick after running and setting awhile.

Jay4200 · May 11, 2015

Oldpath05 said:
700+ hrs. and I notice that my L3400 DT (front gear cases) is also leaking, just started this past week. I can see it seeping on inside of both front wheels, right where the front wheels turn back and forth, seals must be going bad. I was hoping that someone on here has fixed the leaking and showed some pics. Probably need special tools to fix it, I just have the basic wrenches, guess it's my turn to pay the dealer $500.00 to fix it.

Eh, they're supposed to leak there. Mine's been leaking for 10 years, but only on one side. FYI - that $500 to fix the bevel seal is actually $700 at the dealer... per side! I'm up to 90W140 in there on my L4200 - only have to add a bit about once a year. I suppose 00 grease like used in my old Snapper LT16 chaincase would be the next thing to use... don't know about that corn head stuff - looks pretty thick to me - I don't think you'd ever be able to get it out if you wanted to.

Sawyer Rob · May 12, 2015

My local rental place rents Kubota's... He says that weeping of oil is common and last I talked to him, he said a new seal was $60.00 and took him an hour to put it in, (per side) he keeps one on hand for his tractors. He also says, they last about 500 hours...

My brother has an "L" series Kubota, I see his weeps a little oil too, and started at a little over 500 hours...

SR

Oldpath05 · May 12, 2015

After read these post, guess I wont push the panic button yet on seeping oil out my front end, and there's no way I'll pay $1,000.00+ to fix a oil leak on the front end with out me trying first, $5-$700.00 should be the most that repair should cost.
So how would that figure out at a Kubota dealer, I'd estimate 6hrs. labor from mechanic that's done this L series front end seal repair before, he should get $150.00-$200.00 for the job, the seals for both side shouldn't be more than $100.00,= $300.00 so far out of a $1000.00, then the dealership get's the rest, no wonder tractor dealerships are well off.

brain55 · May 12, 2015

We quote $375 per side barring any catastrophic bearing failure.

Brian

MHarryE · May 13, 2015

I started this thread, seep due to a failed bearing, play noticeable when I raised the front end with the loader and wiggled the wheel in every direction. Cost was $90 for 2 bearings, seal, and large o-ring sealing the case halls. Standard sockets, couple small pry bars to pull the inside bearing off. One of the simplest jobs a person can do. I wouldn't have needed the inner bearing but safety first as it was running misaligned when the outer bearing failed.

rbargeron · May 13, 2015

MHarryE said:
I started this thread ........ Cost was $90 for 2 bearings, seal, and large o-ring sealing the case halves....Standard sockets, couple small pry bars......One of the simplest jobs a person can do......

Good doing, MHarryE.

For anybody with leaking seals there's more about replacing them here.

Greenfield Dave · May 13, 2015

MHarryE said:
I started this thread, seep due to a failed bearing, play noticeable when I raised the front end with the loader and wiggled the wheel in every direction. Cost was $90 for 2 bearings, seal, and large o-ring sealing the case halls. Standard sockets, couple small pry bars to pull the inside bearing off. One of the simplest jobs a person can do. I wouldn't have needed the inner bearing but safety first as it was running misaligned when the outer bearing failed.

Glad it worked out for you!:thumbsup: