Cold start issues, which fluid needs a heater?

   / Cold start issues, which fluid needs a heater? #51  
Question... If I take that side cover off, the plate facing us in the pic with 4 bolts... Will that allow better access to find any gunk or debris I'm there? Is there anything under tension in there that may pop out if I remove it?

I don't know, I don't think I would take the Pump apart for fear of voiding the warranty on that...That is a spendy unit, try and get it warm, charge the battery give it a quick try, if no action crack those lines at the injector at the head, not down on the pump, one at a time while cranking ,that will let air out if there is air in there and you can check for fuel.

If it has fuel and pressure it should run..get it thawed out first.
 
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   / Cold start issues, which fluid needs a heater? #52  
If you need to move the tractor, you might be able to lift the FEL and 3pt by cranking the engine while moving the controls for them....that usually works for the 3pt, but I'm not sure on the FEL.
 
   / Cold start issues, which fluid needs a heater? #53  
Pulling that plate isn't going to help you. What gmr61 said.
 
   / Cold start issues, which fluid needs a heater? #54  
I can't believe this discussion is still going on with all kinds of different ways of doing what I suggested pages ago. You have already verified fuel at the base of the injection pump, where the four steel lines lead to the injectors, at the cylinder head. Crack open each injector, one at a time, when the battery is restored to full charge, and see if any fuel is being delivered to the individual injectors. Once you have done that simple task you can then track back, if needed, to see what may be causing lack of fuel to your engine.
Everything else is a waste of time until you determine fuel delivery at the injectors, or not. Without fuel to the head via the injectors your engine will NOT start.
Do NOT remove any plates, or anything other than cracking the injector nuts at the injector/head interface.
Report back results.
Forget everything else for now, warm it as possible, charge the battery fully, crank the engine, and verify presence of fuel at each injector, or lack of fuel, then tell us your results.
 
   / Cold start issues, which fluid needs a heater? #55  
As Harry said, you have fuel issues. Pull out you clean out screen and use it to size cardboard to block off airflow to help keep heat in the engine when running if needed. Cut you existing fuel with diesel #1. A 50/50 blend should be good for your temp. Be aware that as you use more diesel #1, the engine makes less and less heat, thus the cardboard. Cut a hole in the middle of the cardboard as needed.
 
   / Cold start issues, which fluid needs a heater? #56  
As Harry said, you have fuel issues. Pull out you clean out screen and use it to size cardboard to block off airflow to help keep heat in the engine when running if needed. Cut you existing fuel with diesel #1. A 50/50 blend should be good for your temp. Be aware that as you use more diesel #1, the engine makes less and less heat, thus the cardboard. Cut a hole in the middle of the cardboard as needed.

Most have stated fuel issues; and it isn't starting or running, only cranking currently- no fuel to the engine based on what the OP described.
 
   / Cold start issues, which fluid needs a heater? #57  
TSO, I've been on an iPhone and finally read the other posts. Your injectors or injector pump are likely waxed up.

1) Mix 50/50 diesel #1 (or kerosene) in your fuel tank. Diesel #1 runs colder than diesel number 2 and is less efficient and has less lubrication abilities, so pull out your radiator clean out screen and size a bit of cardboard to block airflow to the radiator. Once running, cut a hole in it as needed to get the right airflow through the radiator to keep the tractor in the happy part of operating temperatures.

2) Next, manually prime your fuel filter. Then dump the contents. Do this twice. What you're doing is purging the old fuel for the new mix.

3) Fill your fuel filter with straight diesel #1 and prime. What you're doing to attempting to dilute the number 2 diesel that is gelled in your injector pump and injector tips.

4) Now point your torpedo heater at the fuel filter and injector rail and injectors side of the engine and do your level best to get it as warmed up as you can. We're talking warm to the touch. What you're doing is attempting to melt the wax in the field. Use a paint peeler heat gun if needed. Make a wind break with a tarp as needed. Don't set anything on fire and don't melt any plastic, wires or rubber fuel lines. Be careful.

5) With the torpedo heater still on, things as toasty as you can make it, only then attempt to start the engine once you're satisfied that you have warmed things up enough to melt the waxed fuel.

6) Run the engine with the torpedo heater still on for a bit. Remember our problem is wax and we want all the wax to melt and all purge and get burned in the combustion cylinders.

Than say, "That Eric…."

And if after all this, it still doesn't start, say, "That Eric!" Throw something, and figure out how to get the machine warmed up enough to melt the wax either by waiting for a warm March day, manually cracking open the injector rail and purging the bad fuel, hiring a family of vagrants to group hug your tractor until it warms up (remember to feed them as it may take awhile) or getting it into a warm shop overnight to thaw out.

Also before cranking over, check the dipstick and make sure your crank case isn't filling up with fuel. I don't want you to hydrolock. If the oil level is high, drop the oil and fill up with 0 or 5W30 or 40.

There is another problem that can happen when people add anti-gel. Guys in colder climates don't have the local gas stations trying to mix fuel for winter, and so they aren't as likely to see the problem in the video. What happens is that the local gas station adds a fuel additive to their fuel to prevent gelling, then the customer adds an additive, and poof we have what is in the video. For simplicity reasons, I like to simply cut diesel #2 fuel as needed with diesel # 1 until the engine is running on nothing but number 1 diesel as it gets colder and colder.

 
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   / Cold start issues, which fluid needs a heater? #58  
TSO
Not wanting to add more grief to you but I am concerned that you have introduced air into the injection pump and lines by the opening up of the injection lines.
This air will prevent the pressure from building up enough to open the injectors.
First check if your manual shows how to bleed the injection system. It likely does as you can create the same problem running out of fuel.
Basically, in addition to getting fuel into the filter and up to the banjo bolt, the injection lines need to be loosened at the injectors as the engine cranks. It usually takes two to do this as you close up the line after fuel appears.
Dave M7040
 
   / Cold start issues, which fluid needs a heater? #59  
TSO, the "distribution block" as you put it, is called "The Injection Pump".
Only when the engine is turning will this Injection Pump supply fuel. (the faster it turns, the better).
You don't loosen the nuts at the Injection Pump Lines but rather at the other end of those lines.
Only one at a time also, this is where your 'Injectors' are. (think spark plugs).
You need a good strong battery and a good cranking speed, loosen "one" of the nuts at the line where the
injector is (think spark plug) and have someone turn over the engine until you see fuel coming out there,
then re-tighten the nut.
Also, you said you emptied the Injection Pump, if it refilled itself like you stated, your fuel solenoid is good.
 
   / Cold start issues, which fluid needs a heater? #60  
You got in just before me, Dave...
 

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