Jmarkv
New member
I just took over my folks 40 acres and found out that they haven't cranked their long tractor in over 2 yrs. can anyone offer any advice before I get started on it?
Thanks, Mark
Thanks, Mark
Agvg
Elite Member
Out doors or under a roof?
Check if you can turn the engine by hand a for a few turns.
Check oil and water, a fresh batteries and give it a try, 2 years isn't so long.
Can be an idea to have a fire extinguisher ready if things happen.
Check if you can turn the engine by hand a for a few turns.
Check oil and water, a fresh batteries and give it a try, 2 years isn't so long.
Can be an idea to have a fire extinguisher ready if things happen.
GManBart
Elite Member
- Joined
- Dec 10, 2012
- Messages
- 4,976
- Location
- Detroit, Michigan
- Tractor
- Massey Ferguson 241, Kubota SVL90-2
Welcome to TBN!
There is actually a fairly long thread that just started on whether you should periodically start machines that sit for extended periods of time....let's just say it's a contentious issue. Folks posting in that thread described situations where they had machines sit for even ten years, and all they did was put a fresh batter in it, prime the fuel system (I think) and start it with no problems.
I bought a very old dozer from my neighbor, and it sat for two years....we put a battery in it, and it started right up.
Some folks will likely suggest any number of things like pulling the injectors or glow plugs and squirting some penetrating oil into the cylinders and let it sit for a couple of days, then letting it crank a bit with no compression to get the oil moving. You could actually change the oil and filter before doing that so you're moving good oil.
Some folks will leave the injectors/glow plugs in place, but spray WD-40 into the intake to try adding a little lubrication while it's first cranking (probably need a helper).
Other might suggest pulling the compression release or disconnecting the injector pump (many have an electric shutoff tied to an oil pressure sensor) then cranking the engine to get oil pressure up before actually starting it without trying to get anything into the cylinders first.
I'm not familiar with Long tractors, but I think I'd either use the compression release or figure out how to disable the injector pump (electrical wire, or loosen the fuel input line) so the engine can't start, then crank it for a bit (maybe 15 seconds), then try to actually start it. I'd look at the oil first, and if it looks milky, or like tar, I'd probably change the oil and filter first, just to be safe.
Let us know how it works out!
There is actually a fairly long thread that just started on whether you should periodically start machines that sit for extended periods of time....let's just say it's a contentious issue. Folks posting in that thread described situations where they had machines sit for even ten years, and all they did was put a fresh batter in it, prime the fuel system (I think) and start it with no problems.
I bought a very old dozer from my neighbor, and it sat for two years....we put a battery in it, and it started right up.
Some folks will likely suggest any number of things like pulling the injectors or glow plugs and squirting some penetrating oil into the cylinders and let it sit for a couple of days, then letting it crank a bit with no compression to get the oil moving. You could actually change the oil and filter before doing that so you're moving good oil.
Some folks will leave the injectors/glow plugs in place, but spray WD-40 into the intake to try adding a little lubrication while it's first cranking (probably need a helper).
Other might suggest pulling the compression release or disconnecting the injector pump (many have an electric shutoff tied to an oil pressure sensor) then cranking the engine to get oil pressure up before actually starting it without trying to get anything into the cylinders first.
I'm not familiar with Long tractors, but I think I'd either use the compression release or figure out how to disable the injector pump (electrical wire, or loosen the fuel input line) so the engine can't start, then crank it for a bit (maybe 15 seconds), then try to actually start it. I'd look at the oil first, and if it looks milky, or like tar, I'd probably change the oil and filter first, just to be safe.
Let us know how it works out!
Thanks for the reply, it's inside a closed barn in north central Florida. I checked the oil and it looks really clean, however I think my dad over filled it when he changed it last, would that be a problem for this 3 cylinder engine? Also, I noticed the power steering dip stick showed nothing on it should i change that fluid or just add to it. The trans fluid looks good and at the right level, the antifreeze is nice and green. All 4 tires look a little low on air, especially the right front it's getting closed to sitting on the rim.
I appreciate any advice, Mark
I appreciate any advice, Mark
Thanks for the advice. That's what I'm going to do. Change the oil and filter add power steering fluid. Install a fresh battery and fire this tractor up. I'll let you know how thing turn out, it will be a few days before Ill get back on line as it may take me a day or so to find the filter. I made a few calls on Friday looking for it locally and I might as well have been speaking Chinese when talking to the parts folks at tractor supply, they acted like they didn't know what I was talking about. But I've found a few other suppliers to call tomorrow once they open tomorrow.
BleedingOrange
Elite Member
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2011
- Messages
- 3,135
- Tractor
- Kubota BX 2370
What is a long 2360 ? Never heard of one before .
paulharvey
Veteran Member
There a simple working tractor made ~1970s using 1950-60s technology. Similar to Ford-600/2000 Era stuff.
A friend has a 2360 and he is happy with it. It only has one set of hydraulics on it and coming off that he has a loader on it. if you have not already, do a title search on this site using 2360 some members have provided me with info on it, before I serviced it for him this year. Do you have an operators manual, if not I suggest you get one, I have seen them on the web. I have attached the page on how to bleed. In step 5 it says to leave the upper vent plug open. While I may have done something wrong, I could not get it to start until I closed the plug.
TractorData.com Long 2360 tractor information
TractorData.com Long 2360 tractor information
Attachments
Thanks I have the manual, my folks still had that. I have pretty much read it cover to cover already several times. Like I already said this tractor has sat for at least 2 yrs it has 810 hrs on it my folks used it for bushhogging mainly on their 40 acers until they got too sick to work the land. We had someone using it for hay until this fall when they decided to not renew the contract without telling me, but enough about that. I just want to get the tractor running and keep the farm land up so I don't get in trouble with the county or my neighbors.
paulharvey
Veteran Member
Oh, btw, welcome JMark, from Putnam County FL.
GManBart
Elite Member
- Joined
- Dec 10, 2012
- Messages
- 4,976
- Location
- Detroit, Michigan
- Tractor
- Massey Ferguson 241, Kubota SVL90-2
That's what I would do...certainly won't hurt anything.
pycoed
Silver Member
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2007
- Messages
- 178
- Location
- West Wales UK
- Tractor
- Zetor 7045; Yanmar YM1820;Wheelhorses C121, C101, A8;Cushman Turf truckster
I have an UTB 445 which is I think basically the same engine. My power steering reservoir also empties over time - say 6 months. The hydraulic pump seal leaks into the timing case 7 hence the sump.
My manual however, says to use engine oil in the power steering (non hydrostatic type) & transmission. I use Universal Tractor Oil which is 15W40 for everything (inc the oil bath aircleaner) except the final drives & front diff. This has been fine for the 8 years I've owned it. Twice I think I was concerned about the sump level being too high, so I drew off a pint or two. Normally with medium use, it burns about what the power steering leaks, so all is fine!!
My manual however, says to use engine oil in the power steering (non hydrostatic type) & transmission. I use Universal Tractor Oil which is 15W40 for everything (inc the oil bath aircleaner) except the final drives & front diff. This has been fine for the 8 years I've owned it. Twice I think I was concerned about the sump level being too high, so I drew off a pint or two. Normally with medium use, it burns about what the power steering leaks, so all is fine!!
