2008 Kioti CK20 Start Issues - "Signal Flasher Black Box" Making Noises

[oldpilgrim]

if the manifold just melted the insulation, I doubt that it affected the electrical connection. it probably shorted the alt.

Be ready for a new/repaired alt.

 

[CitizenOfThePlanet]

If the alt does need to be replaced after I repair the wire, I will probably buy a new one as the quotes to rebuild it that I have gotten this morning are almost as much as just buying a new one for $250

 

[Coyote machine]

That alternator label shows that it has a built in voltage regulator, IC, (integrated circuit). You may have shorted out the v. regulator, causing no charging voltage to be sent back to the battery. When you tension any belt it is done at the middle of the belt on the up side. A small deflection when pressing on the belt is adequate. You don't want to overtension it, creating strain on the alternator bearings, or have it so loose as to slide in the pulley groove and render not enough charging from the alternator.
You ought to be able to find a local shop to rebuilt it for less than $250?! No?

 

[TJP89]

I hate to say it, but that wire looks like it will still carry current. I'm thinking it's a bad alternator. But replace wire and belt, can't hurt. While your waiting, check over every electrical system you can find, as it sounds like you have a draw somewhere. I would start with the dash cluster, check wire bundles and switches. A bad alternator won't draw, and doesn't look like the wire was shorting, so you probably have problem #3 somewhere. This can be very hard to find. On my truck, there is a constant small draw that I cannot find, so I just keep a trickle charger on it, and it works fine, I can leave it sitting overnight and it will start, but if I leave it for a few days, it needs a jump.

 

[oldpilgrim]

I hate to say it, but that wire looks like it will still carry current. I'm thinking it's a bad alternator. But replace wire and belt, can't hurt. While your waiting, check over every electrical system you can find, as it sounds like you have a draw somewhere. I would start with the dash cluster, check wire bundles and switches. A bad alternator won't draw, and doesn't look like the wire was shorting, so you probably have problem #3 somewhere. This can be very hard to find. On my truck, there is a constant small draw that I cannot find, so I just keep a trickle charger on it, and it works fine, I can leave it sitting overnight and it will start, but if I leave it for a few days, it needs a jump.

he found it was hitting the manifold.

I already found why it burned. It was loose from the zip tie and resting on part of the exhaust and it melted!

if it hit the manifold and burned, it very likely shorted out the alt.

 

[CitizenOfThePlanet]

Yes it was hitting the manifold, and it's hard to see in the photos, but the copper wire is very much exposed and that is what was sitting on the manifold. I am hopeful that when replacing this it will solve the problem, but I ordered a new alternator and belt also just so that I won't have to wait longer to fix everything.

 

[TJP89]

if it hit the manifold and burned, it very likely shorted out the alt.

OK, I couldn't see that insulation had burned through, as oldpilgrim said, if it did, then it probably shorted something, probably the alternator.

I still think you have a draw somewhere though.

 

[ritcheyvs]

Yes it was hitting the manifold, and it's hard to see in the photos, but the copper wire is very much exposed and that is what was sitting on the manifold. I am hopeful that when replacing this it will solve the problem, but I ordered a new alternator and belt also just so that I won't have to wait longer to fix everything.

if the copper was intact, the wire was still able to conduct and replacing the wire won't fix the real problem (no better than wrapping the exposed copper with electrical tape). I believe the wire shorted to the manifold (perhaps intermittently) while the engine was running, which shorted the alternator output to ground and blew one or more diodes in the alternator. That would explain why it didn't charge the battery and why it drained (and killed) the battery. But that's a diagnosis based on your information. Since you probably need to remove the alternator anyway, why not remove it now and take it to a local car parts place for a free test. Then you would know what you are dealing with vs swapping parts in the blind.

 

[ritcheyvs]

delete duplicate

 

[murphy1244]

:thumbsup:^you are getting ahead of yourself. test first please.