Ford 4000 pouring diesel (I think) from a strange place...

[jimmysisson]

Strange the clutch wasn't affected - it would have to be soaked with the level of the leak, wouldn't it? That amount of oil and water would slip the driven disk under any load. Must be a good disc in there.
Jim

 

[Soundguy]

i've seen bellhousings soo full of oil it was coning out under the steering box!

 

[Soundguy]

Strange the clutch wasn't affected - it would have to be soaked with the level of the leak, wouldn't it? That amount of oil and water would slip the driven disk under any load. Must be a good disc in there.
Jim

actually.. wet clutches don't slip so much.. but may grab a bit.. or swell.

remember.. many devices actually USE oil imersed clutches for long life. IE. independent pto packs are usually wet disc.

 

[Nurseryman76]

Folks, I hit a snag in trying to drain the tranny... Went and tried to open the drain plug on the Trans using a open end wrench, and the square bolt stripped like butter. I tried a pair of big vice grips, and no luck. Next step is maybe a small pipe wrench? Any suggestions on breaking the puppy loose? Torch it? There has to be a magic trick of some sort to get this drain plug out...

 

[Nurseryman76]

-- I don't have access to a welder to weld a hex bolt to it.... Found one of your posts, great suggestion, if you have a welder....

 

[3930dave]

Folks, I hit a snag in trying to drain the tranny... Went and tried to open the drain plug on the Trans using a open end wrench, and the square bolt stripped like butter. I tried a pair of big vice grips, and no luck. Next step is maybe a small pipe wrench? Any suggestions on breaking the puppy loose? Torch it? There has to be a magic trick of some sort to get this drain plug out...

I'm thinking a big VG would be a better choice than a Pwrench, unless you've got enough bolt head to work with.

Big VG really tight, plus about 3' of pipe on the end ? Hands in a position such that you don't punch something that doesn't move, if you manage to break the VG loose, or in half.

Heat on the bolt is usually a good idea.... if there's water in the sump, those threads may be a bit scuzzy. Even a propane torch can be enough to do the trick.

If that doesn't work, try pounding on an almost-fits impact socket, and using your longest breaker bar plus pipe extender.

Rgds, D.

 

[Nurseryman76]

Thanks, will try all the above till something works. A friend of mine offered to let me borrow his cracker box, so if all else fails I will try Sound's suggestion (from another post) of welding a hex over the old stripped out head.

 

[barbqranch]

Hit it with a hammer, not hard enough to break anything, but it can kind of loosen it a little. Then try turning it slightly tighter before trying to loosen it (I know it sounds crazy, but it works!) And yes, if you can heat it a some, do so.

 

[HakanTh]

It has a tapered thread, no sealing surface other than the threads. It may be enhanced with some thread sealing/locking product, so I would attack it with heat. Putting a nut over the stump and weld would be my choice, that make concentrated heat and a new head.

 

[LD1]

How bug is the plug?

Usually ford uses some rather large plugs. Like 1-1/2" NPT that have a ~1" or bigger square.

If thats the case those big iron plugs usually arent machined and not real tight on the tolerances for the wrench. And open end wrenches are "springy". I like a good 15" crescent wrench on them. but if already rounded, the damage may be done. I'd opt for a pipe wrench next. Vice grips are worthless IMO