Ford 4000 pouring diesel (I think) from a strange place...

[Soundguy]

pipe wrench or weld. can file it down a bit for more flats.. but don't go wild or you will neck it and twist it off.

heat will help. even a propane torch... then when it is hot, spray quench it with penetrant oil. then do it again.. when hot, give a medium smack with a hammer to swage the threads.. then quench. after a few heat/quenches, it should loosen up.

 

[TomSeller]

If you can get a tube to the bottom you can siphon it out too.

 

[Soundguy]

syphon will not provide satisfactory results by a long shot.

 

[TomSeller]

syphon will not provide satisfactory results by a long shot.

Sure it would if you can get to the bottom. He is going to need to do a few rinses anyway. But best to get the drain bolt out.

 

[Soundguy]

you simply can't get out with a syphon what you can get out with an open drain plug... just don't work that way..

for one thing.. you won't get the solids..

on real dirty sumps I have even pulled a cover and pressure washed a trans that had been in a flood and had silt in it.. full of silt actually. a syphon would have been like peeing inthe wind... compaired to having an open drain plug with which to cycle material out..

 

[TomSeller]

Thanks, will try all the above till something works. A friend of mine offered to let me borrow his cracker box, so if all else fails I will try Sound's suggestion (from another post) of welding a hex over the old stripped out head.

How much fluid did you get out of the bell housing? I assume you cleared the cotter pin hole by now.

 

[TomSeller]

you simply can't get out with a syphon what you can get out with an open drain plug... just don't work that way..

for one thing.. you won't get the solids..

on real dirty sumps I have even pulled a cover and pressure washed a trans that had been in a flood and had silt in it.. full of silt actually. a syphon would have been like peeing inthe wind... compaired to having an open drain plug with which to cycle material out..

Agree that use the drain plug is a whole, whole lot better. But if he can't get the plug out, I would siphon it out. Solids tend to lay still in the bottom of many manual tractor transmissions and not all drain plug locations do a good job at sweeping out the solids anyway. Biggest need here is to get the contained water out.

 

[Soundguy]

Agree that use the drain plug is a whole, whole lot better. But if he can't get the plug out, I would siphon it out. Solids tend to lay still in the bottom of many manual tractor transmissions and not all drain plug locations do a good job at sweeping out the solids anyway. Biggest need here is to get the contained water out.

there is absolutely -0- reason to not get the plug out.

worse case is to drill the center and extract it..

I've NEVER, EVER let a drain plug permanently whip me.

I have had to go as far to drill one out over sized, tap for pipe threads on a huge plug, then grind it flush after fitting it and brazing it in, then redrilled and tapped it for oem.

had to do that ont he drain plug on my steering pedistal on a ford 950

also had a cast iron plug stick in a steel stamped drain pan.

heat, drilling and extracting eventually got it out.

that plug.. in that location.. WILL come out.. it's just a matter of asking it the right way.

 

[TomSeller]

Thanks, will try all the above till something works. A friend of mine offered to let me borrow his cracker box, so if all else fails I will try Sound's suggestion (from another post) of welding a hex over the old stripped out head.

Update?