B2320 Advice

[smstonypoint]

I am contemplating buying a B 2320HSD to maintain portions of my farm that I cannot access with my utility tractor. I have a loader on that tractor and do not need a loader for the 2320.

I will buy a 4' rotary mower and plan to add a 50-gallon sprayer and a chipper-shredder in due course. None of these attachments should weigh more than 500 pounds.

I am a cautious soul and I will not be operating the 2320 on steep slopes. Do I need front weights?

Because I will not be doing any loader work or tillage, would it be OK to go with unloaded tires?

My local dealer has a 2320 equipped with Goodyear Xtra Traction R3s on the rear. Those tires look like they would have enough traction to serve my needs. Your thoughts?


Steve

 

[HEC]

You may not need loaded tires but if it were me I would add weight to the front .

 

[bp fick]

Loved my B2320. It benefits from weight as the tractor simply is very light. Superb machine in every way, but light it is.

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

Had a B2320 with no FEL and had to add weights to front end for tiller and rotary mower. It was a gear (my first and last gear drive tractor) and would do wheelies.

 

[oldballs]

I'd say with that 50 gallon sprayer (loaded) on the 3 pt you should have some weights on the front end, and would probably help control that rotary mower as well as immobilize the chipper/shredder when parked.

I've never loaded the R4 tires on my B2620 and it works fine with BB, Tiller and other tillage attachments.

Cheers,
Mike

 

[Will_C]

I have a B2620, and I put 135lbs of weight on the front when I use my finish mower. Makes a big difference-without the weights I can wheelie going up small slopes!

Will

 

[smstonypoint]

Thanks for all of the replies.

It looks like I should add front weight. Will uses 135lbs of weight on his B2620. Would that be enough front weight on a B2320 when using a 4' rotary cutter or a 50-gallon sprayer?

Steve

.

 

[smstonypoint]

Another question.

What circumstances/operating conditions would warrant installation of the high capacity alternator kit (listed @ $192)?

Steve

 

[oldballs]

I'd say that the stock dyno is adequate, not unless you are planning on lighting it up like Christmas tree. My B2620 uses a total of 9 amps on two halogen lights mounted forward on the ROPS. LED's would use even less. The stock dyno fits nicely under the hood. It might be crowded under there with a bigger alternator....a minor issue maybe. Others might site a circumstance where the alternator is really needed...or, at least, is quite useful. Maybe a blind operator could use more output.:laughing:

 

[Baby Grand]

Use the money saved by not buying the dyno upgrade to upgrade your worklights to LED?
You mentioned accessing areas that are difficult with your larger tractor - will you be getting ags, turfs or industrial tires?
That decision may have some bearing on stability.
Our B2320 has unballasted ag tires set somewhat narrow for our small vegetable gardens - it's light and not too terribly stable on a side slope.
I'd want some weight on the front if there's no FEL; with how much depending on what you're doing with it.
It's a great little tractor - we've been very happy with it.

 

[smstonypoint]

Thanks for the advice on the alternator choice -- I will stick with the standard version and apply the savings toward front weights.

How much front weight should I add? I'm thinking that a loaded 50-gallon sprayer would present the "best" tipping opportunity.

I am still up in the air on the tires, but I am leaning toward R1s or R4s. I will be using the 2320 to bush hog saplings (<1" in diameter) growing between pine plantation rows. My thinking is that the R1s or R4s may hold up better against the resulting stubble.

Steve

 

[oldballs]

Sounds like the R4's would be best for you, since you'll be in the rough quite a bit. I'm not familiar with the front weight specs from Kubota, but I'd guess that about 100-150 lbs would be plenty. Your dealer might help on that item, or another TBN'er.
Cheers,
Mike

 

[Not a member]

You will definitely want the front weights. I would add as much as the factory bracket would allow. I used to have a B7410 with weights on the front and they were a must in my opinion. Seems like on mine there were four weights totaling about 160lbs.

 

[94BULLITT]

You will definitely want the front weights. I would add as much as the factory bracket would allow. I used to have a B7410 with weights on the front and they were a must in my opinion. Seems like on mine there were four weights totaling about 160lbs.

I second that. I have 5 at 50lbs on my BX they work good for something like my rear blade. When I lift something 700lbs+ the front gets light.

 

[displacedPA]

I have the 48'' cutter on rear I use the FEL as counter balance. I do have loaded rears and that makes things more stable.
I have loved my B2320 Im working it a lot more now that we moved to a larger place. The little tractor takes it in stride. Just takes a long time but seat time is not always a bad thing.

 

[Paystar]

Yes.....I did the alternator upgrade and now have to remove the sidepanel to check the engine oil. If you are only adding a few lights go led as others have said.

 

[displacedPA]

I'm running two leds one aft and one front. They really light things up. I don't remeber the name but I think I got them from a towing supply online.
I have the factory dyno. I think I figured out I could add four of these lights total. But honestly two is all I that Is needed. Make sure u get a wide flood pattern it will light up the area around tractor and be able to work ad if it were daylight.

 

[Pepsiboy]

I have a BX 2350 with Industrial tires on all 4. Fluid in rear tires. I use a FEL, 54" belly mower and a 4' rear tiller. (Not all at the same time.) I have NO extra weight on the front. Have had no balance problems on the 3 banks I have to mow (55 to 60 degree incline). I mow them going UP HILL ONLY for stability. I would say that if you do not have any steep banks to mow, you should be OK without extra weight on the front. If it was me, I would put fluid in the rear tires, just to have the extra traction.

Have FUN with your Little Orange ! ! !

 

[smstonypoint]

Thanks to all of you who have offered advice.

I've managed to convince myself that I definitely need a 2320.

I am still undecided on tires (R1 or R4), but I am going to add the front weight kit and the grill guard. The Kubota site says the list price is $14,208 (with 4 weights). There is a $700 rebate that ends on June 30 if it is not extended.

I have three dealers within 30 miles or so of my farm, so I will be able to do some price-comparison shopping when I get back to NC in ten days or so.

Steve

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

I have a BX 2350 with Industrial tires on all 4. Fluid in rear tires. I use a FEL, 54" belly mower and a 4' rear tiller. (Not all at the same time.) I have NO extra weight on the front. Have had no balance problems on the 3 banks I have to mow (55 to 60 degree incline). I mow them going UP HILL ONLY for stability. I would say that if you do not have any steep banks to mow, you should be OK without extra weight on the front. If it was me, I would put fluid in the rear tires, just to have the extra traction.

Have FUN with your Little Orange ! ! !

BX total different animal than a B. A BX without FEL and no weights can scale a mountain going up or down and can do fair for awhile cross ways on a hill.
Go up a hill on a B with something on the back and no FEL or weights is dangerous when the front end lifts up toward the heavens. I've owned several BXs, yes, even a BX2350 for a short period of time and several Bs, yes, a B2320 with no FEL and gear drive and it would do wheelies on flat land with no weight on the front.