Shield Arc
Super Member
Square tubing and pipe are very reactive to heat.
In the 1970s I built 200 of these bus shelters. The legs had to be with in 1/8-inch. A lot of heat shrinking to keep them with in tolerance
New trailer build
- Thread starter pjb09
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In the 1970s I built 200 of these bus shelters. The legs had to be with in 1/8-inch. A lot of heat shrinking to keep them with in tolerance
chad22
Veteran Member
Nice looking trailer and fun project. Makes me want to go out and build myself a trailer. But the one I have now is all I really need. lol
I did at least make part of the trailer I have. I converted the fifth wheel trailer to a bumper pull and got to weld the tongue and coupler on. It's pulled for thousands of miles and hasn't broke yet. So I guess I can weld. lol Although may not get a nice looking weld all the time at least I know it'll hold.
I love to weld. I wouldn't care if it cost me more to build vs buy. I love to build things if I can.
Chad
I did at least make part of the trailer I have. I converted the fifth wheel trailer to a bumper pull and got to weld the tongue and coupler on. It's pulled for thousands of miles and hasn't broke yet. So I guess I can weld. lol Although may not get a nice looking weld all the time at least I know it'll hold.
I love to weld. I wouldn't care if it cost me more to build vs buy. I love to build things if I can.
Chad
crazyal
Super Member
One thing I like to do is get some stainless steel bolts (usually 1/4-20 1 1/4") and weld them to the steel frame near where all the lights and brakes are going to be plus one near the tongue. They make for a ground that will never fail. I do run ground wires as well but having grounding studs that will never rust makes for an easier install and trubleshooting down the road.
Mark @ Everlast
Advertiser
All of the manufacturers of spring hanger kits that I have used say not to weld the spring hanger down the side....only across the ends. This will also draw your trailer up.
Regarding the axle/brake thing. Most states require two brake axles over 3500 lbs gvw capacity. The states that require one, like my state, do not conform to fed requirements and if you go across state lines that can create an legal issue...and fall under federal interstate statutes. I am sure no one is going to check, unless it gets involved in a fender bender or you have to go through a weigh station. Here, when you get your trailer inspected by a law enforcement personnel, they are supposed to take a look at such things in order to get a homebuilt trailer ID (vin). But now even, when I build one, and if I tag it, they just hand me a homebuilt id number at the tag office without it.
Mark, thanks for the info. My hanger manufacturer calls for welds on the sides wrapping around half to three quarter inch at each end with a full weld on the ends optional. It seems manufacturers each have their own best practice for this item. My 7600# camper has welds down both sides and 1 inch of weld on the ends. Go figure, there doesn't seem to be any consistency with welding hangers. The hangers on my camper look identical to one's on car hauler.
Most provinces in Canada require brakes on only one axle, but the weight at which you need brakes varies quite a bit from province to province.
Here you pay $2.50 to get a metal vin number plate. You have to the police to verify it's on your trailer before registration. After you have plates you take to a garage for inspection sticker.
You are right, a full weld draws the frame quite a bit. I got mine back to straight by doing some full welds on the top instead of stitch welds.
AaronS
Platinum Member
- Joined
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- LS XR4046HC, New Holland Boomer 1020
Great looking build!
Similarly to what PJB said on his manufacturer; My manufacturer had no such statement on the spring hangers. They were however very specific on the welding of the spring seats on the axles as to where you could weld and not weld.
You of course have way more experience on this stuff than do I
Mark @ Everlast
Advertiser
You should carry the weld across to the side for sure so the hanger doesn't "tear" but the primary weld area is across the ends. Dexter does recommend wrapping around the side, but the full weld isn't necessary(a 1/2" isn't but half as wide as your(my?) index finger) so it doesn't have a tear point from side shear but if you are welding with tubing especially, you can seriously draw the frame out of shape and that's the primary consideration as well as the depicted undercutting issue on the side which happens a lot more than you'd think, even with experience. (I don't risk it or waste the time or metal to go all the way). I learned that the hard way and figured something could be right, and had it figured out and then read the directions. Al Ko has told me the same.
A trick to welding the hangers on is to pre bow the trailer slightly over the axle hangers just by letting gravity do it's work by putting a support jack (or shim if you have it under the table) right under the hanger area when welding...Not much, but apply a little pressure on the bottom side as it is welded. Won't draw as much if any.
A trick to welding the hangers on is to pre bow the trailer slightly over the axle hangers just by letting gravity do it's work by putting a support jack (or shim if you have it under the table) right under the hanger area when welding...Not much, but apply a little pressure on the bottom side as it is welded. Won't draw as much if any.
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bumperm
Veteran Member
bumperm
Veteran Member
Not meaning to be argumentative, so let me apologize in advance if this seems so:
Going with one axle brakes may be perfectly legal and work very well for you - maybe. But again, considering the quite modest cost, *why not* go for as much braking capability as is reasonably possible for your rig? You may never need it, towing with that big dually . . . but then again, being able to stop even quicker in an emergency might well make the difference - maybe. Also, emergency braking in on surfaces with lower coefficients of friction, wet, icy, snow, etc. it is handy not to have your trailer attempt to pass you up. Having all wheels with brakes back there is not a bad idea. Did I mention it doesn't cost much? :c)
bumper
Disclaimer: I might be biased on all of this, being a former motorcycle cop and accident investigator I've seen my share.
Going with one axle brakes may be perfectly legal and work very well for you - maybe. But again, considering the quite modest cost, *why not* go for as much braking capability as is reasonably possible for your rig? You may never need it, towing with that big dually . . . but then again, being able to stop even quicker in an emergency might well make the difference - maybe. Also, emergency braking in on surfaces with lower coefficients of friction, wet, icy, snow, etc. it is handy not to have your trailer attempt to pass you up. Having all wheels with brakes back there is not a bad idea. Did I mention it doesn't cost much? :c)
bumper
Disclaimer: I might be biased on all of this, being a former motorcycle cop and accident investigator I've seen my share.
No offense taken. My truck has the braking capacity to handle 4000# plus in the box and I'm only putting 3500# on the trailer and it has the capacity to brake 3500#. I have more brake capacity than brake need. If I needed to haul the trailer and load the truck box I would need the extra brake axle. If I find the need to transport more weight I can add the extra brakes in 2 hours for about $150.
Seven years ago on my way to Florida in Feb. Hauling a 9000# camper we hit black ice and went thru a guard rail in New Brunswick. Trailer had dual brake axles, but on the ice I might as well have had no brakes all. Trailer started to jack nife as we left an overpass. Applied trailer brakes with controller in attempt to straighten the rig. Made no difference. At 60 the truck and trailer were going where they wanted to on the ice. Took out 80 ft of guard rail and destroyed 80 grand of truck and trailer. Fortunately no injuries. Brakes only work on a surface that the tires can create friction with.
Mark @ Everlast
Advertiser
When figuring weight, you have to include the weight of the trailer, which is upwards of of 1200 lbs or more I'd suspect...As far as trailer braking, they have anti lock systems now, which should be put on any nice camper.
I have factored in the trailer about 1800 lbs. I have never heard of anti lock on a travel trailer. For it to work properly it would have to work in conjunction with the truck antilock which would mean connecting to the trucks computer. How would that be done? Would be a nice feature.
Mark @ Everlast
Advertiser
Here.
fordmantpw
Veteran Member
With the integrated trailer brake controllers on newer trucks, there is integration with the truck's ABS.
Here are some similar links:
