Reskinning a King Kutter Tiller

[Sackett2]

As many of us know the KK tiller skin likes to dent and peel paint. It was also cracking along the welds; this is due to the skin only being welded along the top of it at the 4 support pieces. When the new skin is installed, we will put spacers and weld along the front and rear edges to stop the vibration, cracking and some of the noise.
Dad and I cut the old skin out and I took it to the Sheet Metal shop for a replacement to be made. It will be made out of 11 gauge steel. When I told the guy I needed a new skin for the tiller he said "No Problem" when he saw what I was referring to he said "Now that's a tiller!"
Also along the plans are to straighten the rear gate and repair the hinge, build a "hold" system for the gate and rattle can the tiller to semi match my tractor. I'll post more pictures as we progress.

 

[AaronS]

Looking forward to your pics!

 

[EddieWalker]

That's the tiller I'm wanting to buy and I'm curious to follow your progress. Do you have any pics of the pieces you took off or what it looks like without the skin on it?

Eddie

 

[Gary Fowler]

That tiller looks like it has been rode hard and put away wet. Any idea how the back gate got bent up, perhaps from backing into something or backing up with the tiller down?
I just bought a KK II that looks much like that one so I am interested in how or what I can do to prevent this damage.

 

[DeereMann]

Me too. I am planning to buy the KK XB 48" for my SCUT.

 

[Sackett2]

That tiller looks like it has been rode hard and put away wet. Any idea how the back gate got bent up, perhaps from backing into something or backing up with the tiller down?
I just bought a KK II that looks much like that one so I am interested in how or what I can do to prevent this damage.

Yes it has been used hard on some rocky soil, and occasionally backed up with the gate down; as the KK did not come with a chain/system for holding the gate up-- its been om my to-do list.
However, in my defense, the thin skin used on the top shows dents that should have not effected it. The skin was not welded on the front and rear at all, so those vibrated and caused cracks and also noise. The new skin cost me 138.00 to be cut and bent from 11 gauge and there is no flex to it, but i will still re support the front and rear with spacers and welds.

Besides being bent, both the tubes for the hinge broke off, I think just from the vibration and a short run on the hinge pin tube. after bending the gate straight again, I am putting a tube in the length of the gate, not just on the ends and 2 inches in the center.

Also I have noted very little primer used on the tiller. Living in Oregon and without enough barns to put everything under cover, any little scratch becomes a rust spot. It looks bad but its all surface stuff. Am going to rattle can it a green to semi-match the tractor.

Eddie-- I never got a photo of the old piece, but will snap one of the new one prior to welding it in. There is nothing amazing about this tiller. Stout gearbox's heavy tines and a frame. Living in Oregon means I spent about 500 dollars more for this tiller than those back east spend. Having to do it again, I would look hard at the Priefert line Priefert RTX500 5ft. Rotary Tiller They carried these tillers the next year after I bought the KK; the paint was better, the metal heavier and also skinned flush and smooth on the top. The workings look the same as a KK and for those of us on the west coast, 500 dollars cheaper..

 

[adventure bob]

Just bent the gate on a very old Kub gear drive tiller straight today. Used a 25 ton press and a light touch to finesse it back to straight. Looks good as new. Bend the frame pieces and don't try to bend the sheet metal. The sheet metal will go where the framing goes.

 

[Sackett2]

Just bent the gate on a very old Kub gear drive tiller straight today. Used a 25 ton press and a light touch to finesse it back to straight. Looks good as new. Bend the frame pieces and don't try to bend the sheet metal. The sheet metal will go where the framing goes.

The KK Gate has no frame, just the bends in the metal. We will put some wood under the ends and set the front wheel of the tractor on it as a "press"

OK, new skin-- and new skin spray painted "in place" but not welded yet =--

I cannot stress how a few "support welds" would have prevented the cracks... Looking good; will be green when done....

 

[dclynch]

I have the 5' KK tiller and have used it a lot and have not had 1 problem with no dents or any damage to it. I have used it to break up new soil for food plots and have hit my share of rocks and stumps with it.

 

[EddieWalker]

The Atwoods where I see the best price on the KK2 tiller also has some Preifert brand attachments, but no tillers yet. I might talk to the manager about it to see if they are coming, or just wait until I'm ready to buy. I disked up my garden and food plots already this year, so it can wait a bit longer. I just don't want to use the disk again, it creates too much work getting it all smoothed out and ready to plant. The tiller videos I've seen on youtube make it look like you get a perfectly smooth, highly ground up bed to plant in.

Eddie

 

[Ford850]

The Atwoods where I see the best price on the KK2 tiller also has some Preifert brand attachments, but no tillers yet. I might talk to the manager about it to see if they are coming, or just wait until I'm ready to buy. I disked up my garden and food plots already this year, so it can wait a bit longer. I just don't want to use the disk again, it creates too much work getting it all smoothed out and ready to plant. The tiller videos I've seen on youtube make it look like you get a perfectly smooth, highly ground up bed to plant in.

Eddie

I always used my plow and disk, and then drags, to prep for my gardens. All those passes compacted my soil and dried it out by the time I had it ready to plant. I got a KK tiller a few years ago, and I still smile every year when I work up the garden. Mine has some dents in it from the occasional rock that gets wedged between the tines and the upper skin similar to what Sakett2 had. But you cannot believe the nice smooth even soil it lays out behind it. I even added uni-strut and adjustable row scratchers on the rear gate so I can plant after one pass. I have my entire garden prepped and planted in far less time than it used to take just working the soil.
Sackett2 - I have a chain that came on my gate, and I added a heavy 'S' hook pinched on a link close to one end. I can lift the gate and shorten the chain by hooking the open end of the 'S' onto another link. Works great and much easier than actually detaching and shortening/lengthening the chain.

 

[Daver1963]

I think the KK Pro tillers are a bit heftier as far as metal goes. I know mine is welded from front to back where the three point frame is attached.

 

[Gary Fowler]

I just checked my KK II tiller and it is welded only with tack welds at the middle frame point, 2 tacks per frame but only on one side so it has 8 tacks holding the top shield in place. I may use some cold rolled steel or some rebar pieces and put some tacks on the front and back sides of this so I don't have cracking issue like Sackett2. Paint coming off from rocks hitting it is a problem with the top shield and the back shield which indicates poor paint adhesion. I am sure there is no paint at all or very little left underneath so rust from the bottom would be more concern than from the top.
I will have to look at the back shield also to maybe do some strengthening to that also. I would like to put some springs on it so it puts a bit more force downward like the Kubota and other tillers if I could find the parts but it leaves a nice smooth bed as it is now. It does have a chain to hold it up but the design it a bit flawed. The links make it too high at one link and too low the next link up so it just floats on the dirt in the low position or it is not dragging at all in the next up link.

This is a good project to tackle after I have all the garden in for this year which I have so far only tilled up. I have been waiting to make sure I don't get a late freeze. This morning it was 38F and I got up late (after sun up) so it could have been a bit colder before daylight.

 

[Gary Fowler]

The Atwoods where I see the best price on the KK2 tiller also has some Preifert brand attachments, but no tillers yet. I might talk to the manager about it to see if they are coming, or just wait until I'm ready to buy. I disked up my garden and food plots already this year, so it can wait a bit longer. I just don't want to use the disk again, it creates too much work getting it all smoothed out and ready to plant. The tiller videos I've seen on youtube make it look like you get a perfectly smooth, highly ground up bed to plant in

Eddie

Atwoods had some Preifert brand when I bought my KK II but I don't recall now why I chose the KK over them. Maybe just because of the sizes available. Both looked like about the same quality. I cant remember if Preifert is chain drive or gear drive.

Some of the things mentioned in this post may be some things to look for when comparing as in top shield welding, back shield hinges, thickness of plate in both location etc.

 

[DeereMann]

I think Daver1963 is on to something. Being in the market for a tiller, I have noticed the KK Pro models are not cobbled together & tack welded - they are formed and compeltely seam-welded. In my size range, they are priced 'only' about +10% more than KKII models, so I am thinking about going with them.

I sent a note to Priefert but never heard back from them.

 

[pacerron]

I think the KK Pro tillers are a bit heftier as far as metal goes. I know mine is welded from front to back where the three point frame is attached.

Check this thread with pictures http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...256-king-kutter-standard-vs-professional.html

 

[Sackett2]

OK, skin in, welded, painted (mostly-- it was a poor quality paint, an going to get a few cans of the good stuff for a better finish) Here is a shot of the rear edge; put spacers in between the tin and the frame to allow dirt to vibrate out of the top area. Welding the front and rear edges will prevent movement of the tin and reduce the cracks. The Hinge on the KK used 3 pieces, now the ends broke, primarily from the weld around the pipe--it broke on the edge of the weld. I replaced it with a solid piece of 1/2 inch black pipe. I figure it will support better. And a overall view of the tiller, need the rear gate support rod fit and better paint, but a big improvement to the tractor as its not that "yellow"
Some more paint tomorrow and bust some ground Sat..... (a finished pict too)

 

[ruffdog]

My tiller looks new compared to that one but have very few rocks to till here and is stored inside.

 

[Sackett2]

OK, finally a finished shot. ran it today; a lot quieter with out the cracks and the tin welded down on the ft and rear.

 

[coobie]

OK, finally a finished shot. View attachment 374947 ran it today; a lot quieter with out the cracks and the tin welded down on the ft and rear.

Great job,looks good.