First attempt at scratch start tig welding

/ First attempt at scratch start tig welding #21  
ThomasH said:
I understand where the terms came from, in that the 'straight' or 'standard' way to do it, with the vast majority of SMAW rods is to have the energy flowing from the rod to the workpeice (electrode negative).

Um, most welding rods I've seen are electrode positive.
And TIG is usualy electrode negitive.
 
/ First attempt at scratch start tig welding #22  
Some people don't know what electrodes are, just "rods/sticks" or "tungsten" :laughing: Doesn't matter what you call it, someone will always have trouble figuring things out. All they have to do is ask what electrode positive/negative or straight/reverse polarity is. :thumbsup:

I get calls so many times from customers that just bought a TIG (and not always one of ours) asking for advice where to get those welding rods that go into TIG torches...:duh:
 
/ First attempt at scratch start tig welding #23  
Straight versus reverse polarity came from the idea that electrons flow from Negative to positive. A straight flow of electrons was from the torch to the work piece (and theoretically the desired and most stable way for electrons to arc across a gap...but not necessarily in all processes). A "reverse" flow would be from the work piece to the torch.
 
/ First attempt at scratch start tig welding #24  
First of all, let me say that I thoroughly understand electricity. I've had both electrician training and electronic training. But, straight and reverse polarity still doesn't tell me anything. Since every vehicle and machine made in this country has negative ground, is that straight polarity? From that, can we conclude that grounding the work piece to negative is straight polarity? The picture that SquirmyPug posted just says straight or reverse, no mention of polarity.

Not always. A lot of 6 volt battery systems had a positive ground. Terrible system, but it stuck around a long time...especially on tractors.
 
/ First attempt at scratch start tig welding #25  
Think of government SEN= straight electrode negative REP= reverse electrode positive
 
/ First attempt at scratch start tig welding #26  
First of all, let me say that I thoroughly understand electricity. I've had both electrician training and electronic training. But, straight and reverse polarity still doesn't tell me anything. Since every vehicle and machine made in this country has negative ground, is that straight polarity? From that, can we conclude that grounding the work piece to negative is straight polarity? The picture that SquirmyPug posted just says straight or reverse, no mention of polarity.

Are you blind? It clearly says polarity right underneath where it says straight and reverse.

Polarity isn't important just for stick or TIG welding. It matters on wire feed welding as well. When you get into multiple head sub-arc welding polarity is especially important. Sometimes you have to run opposite polarities so they don't interfere with each other and some times you run AC for the same reason as well as for eliminating arc blow. I think that people who can't understand straight and reverse polarity just don't want to understand it. Kind of like telling some people it's not a good idea to rev the car engine right away after starting it in the cold.
 
/ First attempt at scratch start tig welding
  • Thread Starter
#27  
A little update, The tungsten is holding up a lot better now that everything is clean. Ground clamp goes to the welding table and I'm clamping the electrode to the power buckle. Then, I switch the welder to -DC. I wish I knew how to quote but I'll try to answer some of the questions. My filler rod is 3/32, amps 100, tungsten is 3/32 I can't find the package for the type and the argon flow is 15. I've never been told that tig welding was only for thin steel before. The shop welder welded up my 1" thick sub soiler with a tig torch, its the only thing I've ever seen in his hand. My welds are still ugly but look a lot better after I beat them with a 3 pound hammer. I need a whole lot of practice, The guys at work make it look easy. I should post mine in the ugly weld thread and the sub soiler pic in the good weld thread. I have to laugh because I've seen the shop welders run a bead down a razor blade and not burn the edge. Then there's me, burning up 1/8" like I have a cutting torch in my hand. Thanks for everyones input, keep the suggestions coming.
 

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/ First attempt at scratch start tig welding #28  
WOW! That first picture looks really good!:thumbsup: You could add more filler to all those welds tho.
 
/ First attempt at scratch start tig welding #29  
Are you blind?

I think that people who can't understand straight and reverse polarity just don't want to understand it. Kind of like telling some people it's not a good idea to rev the car engine right away after starting it in the cold.


Uh-Oh!! :eek:
Your people skills are showing again. :laughing: :D
 
/ First attempt at scratch start tig welding #30  
Not always. A lot of 6 volt battery systems had a positive ground. Terrible system, but it stuck around a long time...especially on tractors.

Years ago, I bought an old '36 Chevy and didn't know it was a positive ground until I had to jump start it one day. I had to find the battery first, and finally found it under the front seat floorboard on the passenger side. :confused:
 
/ First attempt at scratch start tig welding
  • Thread Starter
#31  
WOW! That first picture looks really good!:thumbsup: You could add more filler to all those welds tho.

There is no way I can take credit for that first picture, I had the welder at work run those beads for me. I only wish my welds looked that good. That's what I'm trying for.
 
/ First attempt at scratch start tig welding #32  
There is no way I can take credit for that first picture, I had the welder at work run those beads for me.
Oh! I thought you were off and running.

You know with that same set up you can do aluminum if you get a bottle of helium.
Here are some aluminum welds I made on DCEN, with a scratch start Tig rig.
 

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/ First attempt at scratch start tig welding #33  
Are you blind? It clearly says polarity right underneath where it says straight and reverse.

What I meant to say, and should have said, there is no mention of positive or negative on that face plate.
 
/ First attempt at scratch start tig welding #34  
TIG is a very slow process to use on thicker material. It really shines on thin material, critical root pass welds and more exotic materials. Using TIG for general welding on anything over about 1/8" thick isn't very cost effective. Now if you're talking about aluminum is a different story because TIG is preferred for more critical aluminum welding.
 
/ First attempt at scratch start tig welding #35  
Shield Arc in your post you said about using helium as a cover gas on aluminum.i have always used 100% argon and pure tungston when welding aluminum.what flow rates would you use compared to argon?
 
/ First attempt at scratch start tig welding #36  
100% argon is the way to go when Tig welding on AC. If Tig welding on DCEN you need a minimum of 75% helium. Helium is lighter than argon, so you generally go up to 30-cfh.
 
/ First attempt at scratch start tig welding #37  
THanks for the information,i've only tig welded aluminun on ac.Thanks Again
 
/ First attempt at scratch start tig welding #38  
Um, most welding rods I've seen are electrode positive.
And TIG is usualy electrode negitive.

I was thinking about older electrodes when I wrote this, like the age of the welder in the picture. I was using 6013, 7014, and 7024 rods, which were all run DCEN, except a few times on AC, depending on the material. Sorry, I should have been more clear...
 
/ First attempt at scratch start tig welding #39  
There is no way I can take credit for that first picture, I had the welder at work run those beads for me. I only wish my welds looked that good. That's what I'm trying for.

You'll get there. In the first pic. he may have been walking his cup. That's the way to make them look uniform and slick. Hard to be consistant free handing tig.
 

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