Cutting Driveway run off trenches

[Tractor2011]

Does anyone have a recommendation for an inexpensive attachment (front or rear) that would allow me to cut U-shaped trenches along side of my driveway, to allow for rain run off?

thanks in advance

 

[savageactor7]

Do they really have to be that deep?

In order to accommodate the wife I use the FEL to carve out very slight 'U' grooves in our gravel driveway. You can hardly notice them when it's dry...and walk over them without any impedance. slight as they are they channel water out of way very efficient.

Just flip the bucket down , apply some downward pressure and slowly back up. I do this all over the back yard too...up here we call 'em 'swale holes' or ditches. Very gently sloping, easily accommodating to all wheeled vehicle traffic. A minimum effort to redirect drainage.

TSC does have a double furrerer, ditcher, 3PH attachment

 

[Deerherd]

Not sure how far you have to go but you could use your tiller. It would be slow, 66" at a time. A box blade or rear blade would be much faster but don't really meet your "inexpensive attachment" criteria.

 

[stuckmotor]

I was having trouble with mud running into the main road where I go into the pasture to feed the cows. I trenched to the ditch with a shovel.

 

[sixdogs]

Not sure how far you have to go but you could use your tiller. It would be slow, 66" at a time. A box blade or rear blade would be much faster but don't really meet your "inexpensive attachment" criteria.

This worked for me. I first tilled it up and then used a grader blade on an angle. Then I ran the tiller on the slope, graded more and smoothed things out before I planted grass seed. Worked great.

 

[s219]

An offset and angled rear blade would be ideal, but that's at least $800-1200 (or more) for a good one in the size you'd want for an L3940. The good ones are properly reinforced to let you slide them off to the side and angle them to cut ditches. Cheaper ones (like the $350 TSC model I use for snow removal) would buckle in a heartbeat if you tried cutting a ditch.

A box blade would work if you were able to straddle the shoulder with the tractor. You can angle the side link (using the threaded adjuster) to get some angle on it, and then make repeated passes. That low corner should cut a shallow V ditch to the depth you want. Might take trial and error to get it perfected. Decent box blades start around $500-600 for the size you'd want. They are also very versatile for lots of other uses.

 

[s219]

An offset and angled rear blade would be ideal, but that's at least $800-1200 (or more) for a good one in the size you'd want for an L3940. The good ones are properly reinforced to let you slide them off to the side and angle them to cut ditches. Cheaper ones (like the $350 TSC model I use for snow removal) would buckle in a heartbeat if you tried cutting a ditch.

A box blade would work if you were able to straddle the shoulder with the tractor. You can angle the side link (using the threaded adjuster) to get some angle on it, and then make repeated passes. That low corner should cut a shallow V ditch to the depth you want. Might take trial and error to get it perfected. Decent box blades start around $500-600 for the size you'd want. They are also very versatile for lots of other uses.

 

[BrooksAGParts]

If you have access to a FEL pallet fork attachment slide the forks together and use the forks to cut your ditch lines!

 

[C4Ranch]

Potato plow

 

[DocDryden]

You should take a look at

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/304094-simple-homemade-trencher-tractor-bucket.html

 

[corl]

I second the potato plow also called a middle buster. A great tool that can find lots of uses and would work great for your ditch. Not too expensive either. You could always start growing potatoes.

 

[/pine]

Does anyone have a recommendation for an inexpensive attachment (front or rear) that would allow me to cut U-shaped trenches along side of my driveway, to allow for rain run off?

thanks in advance

Sorry but I am not quite sure what you mean by "U-shaped trenches"...

To me a trench is a narrow ditch...can be rough on suspensions and they lead to wash-outs...

I try to make very mellow swales wide enough you barely notice them yet they direct the storm water with as little erosion as possible...

A rear blade is probably the easiest implement to use but a swale can made with nothing but a loader and some suitable material (gravel etc.)...and a little hand raking...i.e., rather than digging do the opposite...fill...

 

[davrow]

I try to make very mellow swales wide enough you barely notice them...

Won't work here. No gentle rains, just all at once showers about 2-3 times a year. By the side of the road so limited to about 2 feet wide. But that has to handle at least 6 square feet of runoff, so has to be about three feet deep.

 

[bcp]

Does anyone have a recommendation for an inexpensive attachment (front or rear) that would allow me to cut U-shaped trenches along side of my driveway, to allow for rain run off?

thanks in advance

Lots of talk about "across" the driveway here.

Used to see lots of 2-2.5 inch square toolbars with clamps for various tools. I hardly ever see them anymore. Maybe dedicated tools have replaced them.

One of those with just one furrower on the end comes to mind for a driveway ditch.

Here is an example I found on Google.



Bruce

 

[sixdogs]

Lots of talk about "across" the driveway here.

Used to see lots of 2-2.5 inch square toolbars with clamps for various tools. I hardly ever see them anymore. Maybe dedicated tools have replaced them.

One of those with just one furrower on the end comes to mind for a driveway ditch.

Here is an example I found on Google.

View attachment 362765

Bruce

The above photo is a series of what many would call a multi row potato plow. Anything that furrows and lifts like this would qualify.

Per your request for a trench, this would do it. Trouble with any trench, however is that the water runoff from rain would continually erode the trench by washing the soil and would eventually create other problems further down the line. In addition, weeds would spread seeds because the trenched surface would not be possible to mow. This is why people have suggested a gradual and grassed runoff area.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

A rear blade allows you to ditch and or do the swales that have been talked about. This rear blade was a good mid quality blade that would work well with your size machine. Back when I bought this blade they ran about $1000. Now a similar quality blade is going to run $1500-$2000. These are very versatile implements.:thumbsup:

 

[Tractor2011]

Thanks to all. It's really flat here in eastern North Carolina so without trenches on the sides of my driveway, flooding happens pretty quick in heavy rains. I really liked the idea of using a piece of angle iron chained to the bucket, but a bit concerned about the pressures it would apply to the hydraulic front loader cylinders. Looks like my best bet will be to buy a box blade and tilt it.

 

[Looking4new]

Scraper blade is cheaper and will do the job at hand.
Page 45http://farmfleet.com/assets/FarmFleet2014.pdfPage 45
This is what I just got and it will do the deed.

 

[MESSMAKER]

Potato plow

X3
Potato plow makes a beautiful 6inch deep channel about a foot wide
Tractor Supply for less than $200
You can use a regular plow and finish with a loader or rear blade if you need it deeper