Ford 3000 Hydraulic Filter

[73Ford3000]

Hi,

I was hoping someone out there could offer me some advice. I just purchased my first tractor over the weekend, 1973 Ford 3000 diesal with approximatly 2700 hrs. Not knowing the history of the tractor I have been going through the factory operators manual that came with it and the I&T repair manual that I bought to get a list of all the maintanence items that I should adress before putting the thing into regular service. Seems to be for the most part easy stuff. Fluids, filters, grease, etc. The one concerning item that I have is the hydraulic inlet and outlet filters. The factory manual says replacing these should be left to the dealer. The I&T manual gives a description on how to service this but still seems somewhat unclear. I know you have to pull the hydraulics off the rear of the tractor but I'm still not clear about the complexity of this(special tools, complicated adjustments). I would consider myself pretty good with mechanical things. Built many car engines, automatic trans, rear axles. Easy stuff but I am new to tractors and diesal engines. Any suggestions on how complicated this is? I'd appreciate any advice.

David

 

[tydp]

I would think that unless you're having problems, just change the external hydraulic filter(s) and the fluid. You will probably have to remove more than 1 drain plug, but that's it......

 

[Soundguy]

If your hyds are slow.. get to the filters.. if not, and the oil that comes out looks ok.. refill and go. If you want to get in to the nitty-gritty o fthe maintenance issues.. get the ford shop manual.

soundguy

 

[73Ford3000]

I checked the manuals that I have and the only filters shown are the internal inlet and outlet filters.

The hydraulics work and seem to have good pressure but the rear lift arms controls seem to be screwy. With the controls in the full down position the three point hitch arms will not start to raise untill the controls are raised about 2/3 the way up. Once they start to raise the position can be stoped at any height but they are extremly touchy. I've left a 7' finish mower hanging to see if it bleeds off but it seems to hold fine. I checked the fluid level last night and its only about a half inch low. I wouldn't think its low enough to cause what its doing. I've asked a guy at work and he said it just sounds like a tractor with old hydraulics. He suggested rebuilding the controls if I really want it fixed but said he would just run with it. Anyone seen this condition?

 

[Opti-Mist]

It sounds like you are operating in "Draft Control" and want to be in "Position Control". There is a selector lever under your seat. When you are seated, reach down and under the seat with your right hand. There is a two-position lever down there. When it point up at you, you are in "Position Control" and you are in control of the implement height. When the lever is horizontal and pointing at the tractor you are in "Draft Control". Do a search on draft control to get a tutorial on its use and value. Enjoy the tractorl

 

[73Ford3000]

I keep it in position control but I get the same results in either position. Possibly stuck in draft control internally?

 

[RickB]

I keep it in position control but I get the same results in either position. Possibly stuck in draft control internally?

Possibly. Or the cam follower pin could be worn out. this will throw the postion control adjustments out of whack. Best to pull the lift cover and replace ALL the o-rings and seals under there (including the piston seal and unload valve seal); replace the cam follower pin if needed; and run through the adjustments. The return filter can easily be changed with the lift cover off. The suction filter can be visually inspected as well. The parts for this are cheap. Or hire it done professionally if you want. Carting the lift cover only to a dealer/repair shop is a viable option for many people.

 

[73Ford3000]

Possibly. Or the cam follower pin could be worn out. this will throw the postion control adjustments out of whack. Best to pull the lift cover and replace ALL the o-rings and seals under there (including the piston seal and unload valve seal); replace the cam follower pin if needed; and run through the adjustments. The return filter can easily be changed with the lift cover off. The suction filter can be visually inspected as well. The parts for this are cheap. Or hire it done professionally if you want. Carting the lift cover only to a dealer/repair shop is a viable option for many people.

I think I will try to take on rebuilding the lift cover assembly myself. The parts are affordable and everyone I talk to says it aint to bad to do. It may be a month or so untill I get to it but I'll let everyone know the results. Thanks to everyone for all the advice.

 

[jimmyl]

This sounds very similar to what my Ford 3000 diesel is doing also. {and has for about the last 6 years}
I guess it's off to the search function to look up "lift cover", "return filter", "suction filter" etc......
My lurking is over, my postings begin.

 

[73Ford3000]

Well finally some updates for those who are interested. I pulled the liftcover assembly last night and plan to disassemble it tonight. The filters are definatly ready for a change. The return filter is a paper element filter which is not quite clogged but it took alot of pressure from air hose to blow some air through it. I don't have the screen suction filter out yet but feeling around it down in the case it has a nice bit of garbage around it. One thing I can say for sure is that the inch of built up crud it the bottom of the case is a testament to the abuse these tractors can handle. I don't have a camera to document all of this. Wish I did. I think some posted pictures would help others looking to do this. I've studied the pictures in manuals for quite a while to make sure I was ready for what I was getting into but seeing it in person really explains alot more. I will keep track of any special tools or techniques used and let everyone know when its done.

 

[CalvinV]

Hi there

I'm yet another 73 Ford 3000 owner with the same symptoms - no position control with the selector lever in the vertical position.

I was curious whether you found the cause on your tractor and how difficult it was to fix.

Cheers

Calvin

 

[Soundguy]

No control at all.. or it won't go up at all.

typical position control problems involve the cam, and cam pin.

soundguy

 

[cotemart]

Hi had the same problem, stucked in draft control. I found out that a little plate at the end of the position control rod was at an angle (So it was sitting over the little pin, the ones who saw it may understand what I mean, if not I'm sorry .) Just turning it at the right angle fixed the problem. I have to say that the selector lever was almost moving freely, now I can feel the resistance of the spring.

So it's working good now, what an improvement. We use the tractor mostly with a logging winch and a bush-hog, sometimes with a blade or a scoop.

It seems strong but not at the point to lift the front wheels off the ground. Skidding a full length 20-inches maple, I hear a hissing sound in the back and it gets slow to lift, but the relief valve doesn't seem to become that warm. May-I had broke a O Ring on the pressure pipe when I put the cover back on?

 

[Soundguy]

sounds like the relief venting to me...

soundguy

 

[jascott]

Did you have any problems getting the lift cover off? I am trying to pull mine on a 71' 3000 to replace the filters and it wont budge loose. I've got all the bolts out???

Did you have to work hard to get it off or am I missing something?

 

[Soundguy]

use a piece of 2x4 and a bottle jack.. prop her up under a lift arm on the top cover and jack up a bit.. let gravity work for you.

soundguy

 

[dawzie]

I know this is a really old thread but maybe soundguy can let me know. I have a '71 ford 2000 gas 6 speed. to get the hyd. suction filter out, do I need to split the tractor ?? The I&T manual does nothing to explain how to remove filters from tractor.

 

[dawzie]

Well I got it out without splitting the tractor. Just bent the mounting tab out a bit, wiggle, wiggle, wiggle, swear, swear, drink, drink, ahhhh it came out. Also needed to pull out the PTO shaft and remove the shift collar and fork.

 

[Soundguy]

not a fun job...

 

[jascott]

I guess I am a day late and dollar short answering this...

As you have already figured out, you don't need to split the tractor. For me, the worst part was pulling the lift cover - by myself... Glad you got it done.

Well I got it out without splitting the tractor. Just bent the mounting tab out a bit, wiggle, wiggle, wiggle, swear, swear, drink, drink, ahhhh it came out. Also needed to pull out the PTO shaft and remove the shift collar and fork.