captaineddie
Member
Well, my lights went out again tonight. This is the second time this has happened. Has anyone found a solution?
Lights & Horn Out. . .AGAIN!
- Thread starter captaineddie
- Start date
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TSO
Elite Member
Replace the fuse with the next size up ... I think go from 15a to 20a
OP
captaineddie
Member
I'll check tomorrow, but I think the dealer has already tried that. Thanks for the quick reply.
Gary Fowler
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jun 23, 2008
- Messages
- 11,998
- Location
- Bismarck Arkansas
- Tractor
- 2009 Kubota RTV 900, 2009 Kubota B26 TLB & 2010 model LS P7010
Get it repaired at the dealer now. Changing to a heavier fuse is only a temporary fix. They need to find out what is causing the heavy current draw.
OP
captaineddie
Member
I totally agree. The problem needs more than a band aid. The cause needs to be found and corrected. Thankfully, I have a good dealer.
grsthegreat
Super Star Member
have you added any after market lights to the circuit? Just increasing fuses wont help...heck you could end up melting down the wiring harness and having to shell out $$$ for a new one.
something else is happening
something else is happening
k0ua
Epic Contributor
Show me a close up photograph of the blown fuse, and I will be able to advise you. Barring that, did you get a good look at the blown fuse? All blown fuses are not equal. You must examine them to help determine what happened, and WHY the fuse blew. There is Often more information available in a blown fuse than most mechanics realize.
Example 1: fuse that looks like it is intact but checks open. This is usually a fuse that has failed due to vibration, not over current.
Example 2: Fuse that looks pretty good, but you can observe a sagged and slightly open center, fuse checks open. This is "normal" slightly over-current and over heating of the element over a period of time. Measure the current that the load is drawing, and either correct the load or re-design the circuit, Check on wiring current handling capability or rewire, and up fuse size.
Example 3: Fuse is totally disintegrated inside, just gone, and inner fuse enclosure may be blackened. This is a fuse that has received a severe over-current condition. If the replacement fuse holds,(for a while) what you have is an intermittent short circuit. Likely a wire with worn insulation or caught/pinched on the frame. Every once in a while, it goes dead short to ground, and KAPOW!. hundreds of instantaneous amps of current is drawn, vaporizing the fuse. Obviously if the replacement fuse blows instantly, then the short circuit is still active, and would be more easily diagnosed. This would be an ideal outcome.
Example 1: fuse that looks like it is intact but checks open. This is usually a fuse that has failed due to vibration, not over current.
Example 2: Fuse that looks pretty good, but you can observe a sagged and slightly open center, fuse checks open. This is "normal" slightly over-current and over heating of the element over a period of time. Measure the current that the load is drawing, and either correct the load or re-design the circuit, Check on wiring current handling capability or rewire, and up fuse size.
Example 3: Fuse is totally disintegrated inside, just gone, and inner fuse enclosure may be blackened. This is a fuse that has received a severe over-current condition. If the replacement fuse holds,(for a while) what you have is an intermittent short circuit. Likely a wire with worn insulation or caught/pinched on the frame. Every once in a while, it goes dead short to ground, and KAPOW!. hundreds of instantaneous amps of current is drawn, vaporizing the fuse. Obviously if the replacement fuse blows instantly, then the short circuit is still active, and would be more easily diagnosed. This would be an ideal outcome.
OP
captaineddie
Member
No, I haven't added anything--the tractor is totally stock and only has about 28 hours on it!
grsthegreat
Super Star Member
yeiks..only 28 hours and its blown twice. Im thinking intermittent shorting out like described above. Luckly its under warranty. All it takes is a scrapped wire thats shorting out to cause the issues.
the biggest problem is if its intermittent, it will probably be hard to locate. I have these same issues with house breakers that randomly trip. they never have an issue when im trying to locate problem.
OP
captaineddie
Member
Weather permitting, I'll have the tractor back at the dealer tomorrow and I'll show him your advice. I'm going to watch to see what things look like this time. Since I'm not the only LS owner to experience this problem, surely there is a design flaw somewhere.
Bob77064
Elite Member
k0ua
Epic Contributor
Take a Macro (extreme close up) picture of the fuse if you can. and post here.
creekbend
Super Star Member
It has been mentioned earlier, but never replace a blown fuse with a higher amp fuse. I knew a lady once, whose whole house burnt to the ground, because she installed a higher amp fuse for her dryer. Why would a dealer substitute a higher amp fuse than what the factory states? Hopefully the dealer's mechanics are better trained. Best wishes.
murphy1244
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2011
- Messages
- 19,520
- Location
- Ohio
- Tractor
- Kubota 1120 RTV Kioti DK-40, MF-135, Ventrac 4500Y
Good call on the Fuse.
k0ua
Epic Contributor
As with a lot of things, there is more than one way to look at an event like this. You could say "thank God the fuse blew" and protected my tractor from a possible overheated wire and possible fire. You have a problem with the tractor, but the blown fuse is but a symptom most likely not the cause of the problem. A defective lamp socket or a defective lamp can cause a fuse to blow as well as the possible shorted to frame ground wire to I mentioned earlier. It was fortunate the fuse blew to protect the wiring from fire, it is unfortunate what ever your problem is that is plaguing your tractor, that problem is still there.
mangus580
Gold Member
I mentioned this in the thread TSO had about this...
Under the hood, there is extra wires that are there for cab tractors. They are basically dead ends, and its quite possible the rubber boot covering them has slid back, and they short out against something randomly.
I forget what color the wires are, but if you look back, I am pretty sure I said in that other thread.
I know the plug has both high/low, and turn signal for each side.
Under the hood, there is extra wires that are there for cab tractors. They are basically dead ends, and its quite possible the rubber boot covering them has slid back, and they short out against something randomly.
I forget what color the wires are, but if you look back, I am pretty sure I said in that other thread.
I know the plug has both high/low, and turn signal for each side.
OP
captaineddie
Member
I just put in a call to my dealer and he is going to call the LS service representative. We'll see what he has to say. I'll pass on what he says.
k0ua
Epic Contributor
OK.. do you believe that is not just a problem with your tractor, but maybe a design flaw? Are others with this model having the same problem?
OP
captaineddie
Member
From what I've read, there are other instances of this problem, how many, I don't know. The dealer says they checked everything on the first go-around--naked wires, proper grounding, switches, etc. This is a very reputable dealer and they don't know where to go next, so a call to LS is the next step.
rwork
Platinum Member
200 hrs, not a single problem with my 2012 R3039H. Horn and lights work fine.
