cost of adding rear remotes and 3rd function

[ENC]

I am getting a quote from the dealer on adding 2 rear remotes with power beyond in case I want to add a splitter or ??? I also want a 3rd function on the FEL for a grapple.

So far they said $1400 for the rear remotes with 2 position valves. Is that the same as power beyond or more importantly is it going to meet my needs? Is the price in range of what I should be looking at. How much for the 3rd function? Should I get skid steer couplers up front instead of whatever is normal for a tractor?

Thanks in advance

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I am getting a quote from the dealer on adding 2 rear remotes with power beyond in case I want to add a splitter or ??? I also want a 3rd function on the FEL for a grapple.

So far they said $1400 for the rear remotes with 2 position valves. Is that the same as power beyond or more importantly is it going to meet my needs? Is the price in range of what I should be looking at. How much for the 3rd function? Should I get skid steer couplers up front instead of whatever is normal for a tractor?

Thanks in advance

Sounds a bit high, but they have to install and that takes time and time = $$$. If your major concern is to have one of the remotes for a log splitter, then you really want to have one of the valves with a detent so that it will stay on when you want it on to feed the log splitter valve. I sell a 2 valve setup for $755, that is with any make up needed for the valves. A 3 valve setup runs $890. Now this does not include any valve mount, that is left up to the customer to make the decision of how and where to mount the control valves.

FEL true 3rd function runs $592 or a diverter setup (my recommended way to go) runs $567. Again none of these are installed prices and these costs are only good to the end of the year. (a couple more days)

Flat face couplers run quite a bit more $$, but are nicer. Personal preference for what you get. Most people do not get them. Just the std AG type QDS are what get used.

Gives you something to compare to though.

Good luck.

 

[ENC]

Got back on the 3rd function at $800 so a total of $2200 installed for 2 sets of rear remotes and the 3rd function on the loader

 

[ovrszd]

You have to decide what you want in the end.

I've gathered components and added rear remotes and 3rd function, similary to what Brian sells.

I've also bought factory add ons.

Only you can decide which is best for you.

Currently I have 3 rear remotes and true 3rd function on the FEL with no exposed bracketry, odd located levers, or clustered hoses.

It's totally up to you what you want.

After a few hundred hours of operation, what it cost you will become irrelevant and you'll only remember the useability.

 

[Complete Turf Care]

I recently added 2 remotes to my Kubota L5740. These were purchased from my local Kubota dealer and cost me about $1450.

I brought them to a local welding/machine shop and he installed them for me. He also installed a 3rd function for my grapple. Total cost for the 3rd function and the installation was about $1000. So, my total cost for 2 remotes and a 3rd function was about $2450.

 

[Hdoilcan]

I'm getting the front 3rd function kit, three rear remote, first one with will be 2 position and the next two will have float. I'm paying $2,200 and some change installed. The tractor is new and I'm having them add these b4 they deliver it. I was told this price was at dealers cost but after searching a little I have my doubts.... but they will be installing it all and I guess it take a good amount of time so I'm not gonna complain.
3rd function kit $640
1st rear remote $625
2nd rear remote (float) $490
3rd rear remote (float) $490

 

[Piston]

After a few hundred hours of operation, what it cost you will become irrelevant and you'll only remember the useability.

Yup, this is exactly what happened to me, I don't remember what it cost.

I installed a 3rd function valve for my grapple, and 4 rear remotes. 2 have float, and the other 2 are standard 2 position. I used stack valves so I can add more as needed. Where I made my mistake is I didn't add a motor spool valve or power beyond, so when I use my log splitter I have to use a bungee cord to hold the valve open, which I really don't like because it's basically mickey moused. I think there is a link in my sig to a detailed report of exactly how I did the work, as well as breakdown of costs etc. with quite a few pics.


EDIT: I just checked my thread, and it cost me $870 for the entire rear remote setup including QD's. The 3rd function was right around $800 from WR Long which included brackets and everything I needed to install it.
Note that I did get a few fittings for no cost to me, so figure maybe an additional $40-$50 for those fittings. Also, my mounting brackets for the rear remotes were no cost, so realistically I'd say for around 1k if I had to buy everything the way I did it. (rear remote setup)

At the time I was doing this, MtnViewRanch didn't offer the valve kits he offers now. If I were to do it over again, I would go with some sort of rear remote/diverter setup combination from him for all my rear remotes, so the valve's wouldn't take up as much space, but I'd still have numerous remotes out back. I don't think the additional cost of the 3rd function is really "worth" it if your looking to do this economically. The diverter setup would be just fine, and in some cases better (with minor disadvantages depending on your personal preference).

Of course, this is with me doing all my own labor and quite a bit of time in learning hydraulics (I knew absolutely nothing when I started). If you don't want to do any of the work, then it may be better for you to just pay the dealer and be done with it. However, this will almost certainly be the most expensive way to go, while more than likely not getting as "nice" of a setup as you could with a true customized job. (in regards to functionality/versatility)

......now that I've used the hydraulics, what do I value them as????? Priceless.

 

[J_J]

ENC ,

If you are mechanically inclined, you can do all this yourself and save big bucks.

If you don't need float on the T-N-T, you can install something like this.

Three spool valve with PB.

3 SPOOL 8 GPM PRINCE MB31BBB5C1 DA VALVE

P-BEYOND & CLOSED CENTER PLUG 8 GPM MB VALVES

Four spool valve.

4 SPOOL 14 GPM PRINCE WVS41BBBB5C1 DA VALVE

POWER BEYOND/CLOSED CENTER SLEEVE WVS VALVES

If you need float for the T-N-T, the you need stacked valves.

Use this link to add the components to make up a stacked valve. You can designed yur valve anyway you want using the drop down list.

4 SPOOL SV VALVE OPEN CENTER W/POWER BEYOND

3rd function.

12 VDC 10 GPM OC DA SOLENOID VALVE

1 STATION DO3 SUBPLATE OPEN CENTER

Some mounting plates and hoses and fittings.

Flush face QD's

1/2" NPT FLUSH FACE QUICK COUPLER SET ISO 16028

 

[ovrszd]

Understand, I'm not arguing a point here. Just sharing experiences.

These pics are of my M9540 with 3 rear remotes and true 3rd function on the FEL Pricey. What you get is convenience and a total lack of clutter Over time a setup like this will please you with no regrets.















Here's a setup that I pieced together on my L4400. 2 rear remotes and true 3rd function on the FEL. I had to build all the brackets, measure and build the hoses. It was useable. Worked without glitch. Cheap. Cluttered and not as user friendly.

 

[Hdoilcan]

I myself would rather have the factory look over the diy look even at the price difference.... but that's just me.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I normally recommend the OEM valves whenever they are the integrated type. Basically impossible to match that cleanliness with aftermarket valves. But all do it yourself set ups are not bulky, cluttered and not user friendly. Have you guys looked at what some of these guys are doing now days? Pretty darn nice if you ask me, actually quite a bit nicer than what the OEM valves are for some of these tractors. One of the HUGE pluses for the aftermarket valves is that you have a wider variety of types of valves to choose from and a lot of the time you can spend less money and get a better quality valve than what the OEM valve offerings are.

And something else, what other choice does a person have if the OEM options are not adequate to get you the type or amount of valves that may be needed.

All things to be considered.

 

[ENC]

Okay I get what you are saying about doing the install myself and saving $$. I am not against this at all. What I am missing though is the rest of the stuff I am going to need. I know I can source the hoses locally but what am I going to need to hook them to on the tractor side? What kind of fittings do I need for the rear remotes? Also what are the advantages of having float in the rear remotes? I understand the float function on the loader and the 3pt but I am not sure of the application in my rear remotes. I am not sure I am going to get a TnT kit, however, I do want to run a wood splitter and maybe have some hydraulic scarifiers on a Box blade. I am sure onve I have the hydros there will be lots of options.

Basically just wanting to know the steps/parts that aren't being listed. Thank all of you for everything so far.

Also I don't seem to have a lot of faith that what I am asking for from the dealer and what he is quoting me for are the same thing. He just keeps saying 2 position valves on the rear remotes, and I want to make sure they are going to do what I want.

 

[Piston]

Okay I get what you are saying about doing the install myself and saving $$. I am not against this at all. What I am missing though is the rest of the stuff I am going to need. I know I can source the hoses locally but what am I going to need to hook them to on the tractor side? What kind of fittings do I need for the rear remotes? Also what are the advantages of having float in the rear remotes? I understand the float function on the loader and the 3pt but I am not sure of the application in my rear remotes. I am not sure I am going to get a TnT kit, however, I do want to run a wood splitter and maybe have some hydraulic scarifiers on a Box blade. I am sure onve I have the hydros there will be lots of options.

Basically just wanting to know the steps/parts that aren't being listed. Thank all of you for everything so far.

Also I don't seem to have a lot of faith that what I am asking for from the dealer and what he is quoting me for are the same thing. He just keeps saying 2 position valves on the rear remotes, and I want to make sure they are going to do what I want.

This thread, and the ("learning") thread that it links to, will answer a lot of your questions. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/232020-how-i-added-rear-remote.html

I had the exact same questions when I started.

 

[ovrszd]

I myself would rather have the factory look over the diy look even at the price difference.... but that's just me.

And the ease of use with everything being in the right spot.

I'm not opposed to a "build your own". I understand it and have the capability to do it myself. But not as neatly and orderly as factory. And as I said before, after pulling that lever or pushing that button several thousand times, price becomes secondary, ease of use becomes paramount.

 

[ovrszd]

I normally recommend the OEM valves whenever they are the integrated type. Basically impossible to match that cleanliness with aftermarket valves. But all do it yourself set ups are not bulky, cluttered and not user friendly. Have you guys looked at what some of these guys are doing now days? Pretty darn nice if you ask me, actually quite a bit nicer than what the OEM valves are for some of these tractors. One of the HUGE pluses for the aftermarket valves is that you have a wider variety of types of valves to choose from and a lot of the time you can spend less money and get a better quality valve than what the OEM valve offerings are.

And something else, what other choice does a person have if the OEM options are not adequate to get you the type or amount of valves that may be needed.

All things to be considered.

I agree Brian. Especially if the factory options do not offer what's needed.

As to the "build your own" installs. I've not personally saw one that I would consider as orderly as factory. But there may be some out there. Maybe one of those guys can post some pics to give the OP the confidence that it can be done.

 

[ovrszd]

Okay I get what you are saying about doing the install myself and saving $$. I am not against this at all. What I am missing though is the rest of the stuff I am going to need. I know I can source the hoses locally but what am I going to need to hook them to on the tractor side? What kind of fittings do I need for the rear remotes? Also what are the advantages of having float in the rear remotes? I understand the float function on the loader and the 3pt but I am not sure of the application in my rear remotes. I am not sure I am going to get a TnT kit, however, I do want to run a wood splitter and maybe have some hydraulic scarifiers on a Box blade. I am sure onve I have the hydros there will be lots of options.

Basically just wanting to know the steps/parts that aren't being listed. Thank all of you for everything so far.

Also I don't seem to have a lot of faith that what I am asking for from the dealer and what he is quoting me for are the same thing. He just keeps saying 2 position valves on the rear remotes, and I want to make sure they are going to do what I want.

If you plan to keep this tractor for a long period of time, and if you plan to use the hydraulics you are buying, it becomes critical to get what you need, setup in a manner that you want/like.

I think everyone in this discussion will agree, you can't have too much hydraulics on a tractor. Also, your needs will grow and if you shortcut now, you'll be disappointed later.

Here's my opinion of ideal rear remotes. No less than three.

One SCV (self canceling valve) to use with hydraulic lift pull type implements such as a wheeled disc or field cultivator. Also can be used powering a 3pt splitter without having to use a bungee cord to hold the valve open as you would with a 2 position valve. My boxblade has hydraulic scarifiers which are ran by the SCV which works very slick.

Two float valves. These will be your multiple use valves and will be used the most. Mine are normally plugged into my TnT. I use the top link in float most of the time when using my 3pt brush cutter. Also use the side link in float when using a Boxblade and wanting to follow the contour of the terrain.

Plan for maximum use of your hydraulics!!!

As to what your dealer is selling you. Take a little time and sharpen your hydraulic knowledge so you can logically talk to the dealer/salesman about all this. Know the difference in a 2 position valve, a float valve and a SCV valve. If the salesman seems ignorant about it, talk to the mechanic in their shop. But find someone there that can answer these question so you know exactly what you are getting.

As to build your own. Look this tractor over carefully. Where would you mount the valves/levers? Where are the factory levers located? How will you run the plumbing? Is there space for all this on the fender or wherever you would choose to mount? If all you see is problems with a build your own location, then you better go factory regardless of price or you will be disappointed in the end result.

Good luck with your choices and keep us posted!!!

 

[paulwestski]

Here's a spread sheet of the parts required to install a true third function.
I just installed this on my L4240 for grapple control.
All of the mounting plates I custom made. I'll be doing a write up on the installation soon.

I tried to order this installed at the dealer but the factory kit was on back order for months.
The dealer was going to charge $900 installed. The Kubota kit is a really nice kit.
My installation cost for parts only was over $600.00
After you add my labor and fabrication my true cost is over a $1000.00.



FWIW I did order three factory rear remotes, two float and one two position spring center.
It's hard to say how much exactly they cost because the dealer rolled everything into one price.
I'd say they cost about $2000.00
The two float rear remotes are dedicated to the Top and Tilt.
The third rear remote will need to be split with a couple of diverter valves so that I can have three functions out of the one valve.
Eventually the grader blade will have Hydraulic offset, angle and tilt.

I installed four remotes on my L3800 and that cost was around $1500.00 parts only. Installation and bracket fabrication all in my spare time.
Link here.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...g/208593-top-tilt-rear-remotes-installed.html

 

[Fallon]

I've documented my install pretty well here & think it's pretty good looking. Well, except for the TNT hoses on the back, still working on that, or would be if my shop was warmer.

I probably could have it done cheaper, but I think mine looks better than most installs. Don't underestimate the value of an education. I now know how my tractor works a lot better & have a far better understanding of hydraulics. I'm a nerd though & really enjoy educational projects that require a lot of research & learning.

 

[Fallon]

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/295816-kubota-l3200-tnt-3rd-function.html

 

[ovrszd]

Fallon, I scurried on over there, thinking you were done. Wanted to see pics of it all buttoned up. Imagine my disappointment....