I Still Don't Get It - Float vs Non Float Valve

[Hdoilcan]

I have searched and searched the difference between a rear remote that has float and one that doesn't. I still don't get it, I think because I've never had a tractor before and have never used a rear remote for anything. The only hydraulic thing I own in a Tractor Supply log slitter.
I'm buying a new tractor and having them add a couple remotes and the first one from what I understand (?) can't be float but the second one can so that's what I'm having them do only cause I've read in here to have one with float but not really 100% sure what one type will do different than the other type. I've searched on YouTube also to see if I could watch what the differences would be, but I've found nothing that would help. Just wondering if some one could explain in a more basic way. Need somthing like " Rear Remotes Difference For Dummies" lol Sorry guys it just one of those things I don't get

 

[bcp]

In float position, the hydraulic cylinder acts more like a chain, letting the implement move according to the ground contours, etc. Non-float locks the cylinder at one length, which you select.

Bruce

 

[/pine]

If you are entirely unfamiliar...when you move the valve lever to the "float" (detent) position it will snap-lock itself into position...

On almost all ag tractors the 3 point hitch is always in float...meaning it will raise up and down as the ground lifts whatever is attached...
...being able to power a hydraulic top link through a valve with float will expand that flexibility...

 

[Hdoilcan]

The way you explained it helps me understand now (believe it or not haha) but what are some instances where I would want to be using an attachment with float vs one without it.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

No need for the float function that I can think of except if you are going to have a top and-or tilt set. Then that is where the float function can be very beneficial. For a top link, if you are mowing steep slopes or pond banks, a lot of the time the swivel mounts on the mowers are not enough to allow the mower to move as much as needed. Put the top link in float and it is then no problem.

Float for the side link allows an implement to move up and down from side-side independently. Not that you want to be doing that all the time, but there are times when it can be very effective to get the finished outcome desired when grading and for raking.

I personally use the side link float function when finish grading-smoothing of my roads at intersections. :thumbsup:When the tractor goes around the corner, the implement then follows the crown of the road instead of the tractor. Without float, I would either dig in or leave piles of dirt.

Hope that the explanations help somewhat.

 

[Hdoilcan]

Reason I'm also asking is because I had the dealer order two rear remotes and then called him a few days later to change one to a float but he already ordered the other two but said no problem that he'll just order another one. He said he'd end up selling the one extra that he ordered with out float. I'm thinking if just going with three rear remotes and now and I could have him just install that extra remote but it wouldn't have float. So that would leave me with three rear remotes, two with out float and one with float. I thought I read that it would be better to have two with float instead?? If I have him order the third rear remote to have float it'll be an extra week.

 

[kevinwak]

I use float on my front mounted snowblower. When it is in float it just follows the ground on its skid shoes. When not in float sometimes it is a little above the ground and, depending on the hills, it can lift the from tractor tires off the ground when set to low. Float is a great option, as having it on a valve doesn't limit the normal non floating uses, it only floats when an if you want it to.

Sent from my iPhone using TractorByNet

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Reason I'm also asking is because I had the dealer order two rear remotes and then called him a few days later to change one to a float but he already ordered the other two but said no problem that he'll just order another one. He said he'd end up selling the one extra that he ordered with out float. I'm thinking if just going with three rear remotes and now and I could have him just install that extra remote but it wouldn't have float. So that would leave me with three rear remotes, two with out float and one with float. I thought I read that it would be better to have two with float instead?? If I have him order the third rear remote to have float it'll be an extra week.

All depends on what you are going to use the remotes for. Again, if you are going to get a T&T set, I would wait and get 2 with the float function, but that is just me. Better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it. A week isn't really that long.

Just my :2cents:

 

[Hdoilcan]

I will eventually get a top-n-tilt set up

 

[/pine]

I will eventually get a top-n-tilt set up

If you're going to be doing any grading work etc...I bet your "eventually" gets closer to the present every time you have to stop, get off the tractor and make a manual adjustment that with T&T could be done from the seat on the fly...!

 

[MtnViewRanch]

If you're going to be doing any grading work etc...I bet your "eventually" gets closer to the present every time you have to stop, get off the tractor and make a manual adjustment that with T&T could be done from the seat on the fly...!

This can lead to "it's good enough syndrome" This can be very serious contition. The only cure that I know of is a permanent dose of "T&T".

 

[Arc weld]

Float is like a free wheeling hyd. motor valve. You could make the motor turn clockwise or counter-clockwise but in the neutral position, the motor could still be turned by hand either direction. With a non free wheeling valve, the motor would be locked and not turn until the valve is actuated. Float allows the weight of the attachment to just fall as it may with nothing stopping it from going up or down. The most common use of float is on a front end loader or bulldozer. If you put the lift arms in float, the bucket or blade will raise and lower to follow the ground contour. Especially useful for spreading topsoil or other material. Caution though! Float should only be used on a loader/dozer when driving in reverse. In forward, if you hit something solid there is nothing to stop the cylinders from fully compressing and you could damage them and/or the tractor by slamming the cylinders closed with the full weight of the tractor behind them.

 

[Hdoilcan]

Thanks guys this really helped! I finally understand

 

[Zebrafive]

With hydraulic motors you want a valve with float. You put the valve in float first then connect the hydraulic motor. To start the motor move out of float. To stop the motor move back to float. To reverse the motor you have to reverse the hoses. Doing it this way prevents damage to the motors seals that could happen if you used neutral position to stop the hydraulic motor.
I would get the third in float in case you ever need it.

The SCV levers for my JD6415 have stops for float the you have to move before you can put the levers in float.

 

[Arc weld]

It depends entirely on the type of motor and the application. You don't normally have to change hoses to change direction. There are spool valves designed specifically for Hyd motors that have free wheeling in neutral. You don't have to add a separate float valve. A slow speed motor like on a post hole digger doesn't need free wheeling and can be reversed by just moving the lever the other direction. Something like a hyd drive mower might need free wheeling so it doesn't come to an abrupt stop after spinning so fast.