PROJECT: Building a grapple bucket for the LS

Guesseral · Sep 30, 2013

TSO said:
LS HOMEMADE grapple 1 - YouTube

Very nice!

Xfaxman · Sep 30, 2013

TSO said:
Yes. But don't I need that power?

I would say no, but I don't know the diameter of your cylinder and didn't see what you were doing when it tore loose.

With mine I usually just close the lid lightly. It doesn't even take a lot of pressure to crush brush.

You have the base of the cylinder up a long way from the bucket, that means there is a lot of leverage there.

Notice the mounting points on this one, sitting on the skid from when I received it..

Cylinder fully retracted, lid open.

Cylinder fully extended lid down.

These tines go below the lower tines to be used as scarifiers for raking.

Close up of cylinder mount and lid attachment.

I haven't seen yours with the lid closed, so don't know if you can shorten the base mount any without raising the other end.

Good luck getting it fixed. :thumbsup:

TSO · Sep 30, 2013

Xfaxman · Sep 30, 2013

Looks like you have it fixed good enough to do some serious grappiln! :thumbsup:

TSO · Oct 1, 2013

Well, it WAS fixed good enough! I added some metal to brace the rear/top cylinder bracket (don't mind the messy welds in the pics, didn't clean them up yet)...

Went outside and tested it on this big stump I had sitting in the woods.

I picked it up several times until I heard a SNAP which I knew was metal and not wood. Turns out the rear/top bracket held just fine, but I managed to rip off the front bracket! So, I might cut the lid apart and redesign it a bit to better integrate the cylinder brackets into the whole design. I'll try to weld it up 1 more time as is, but after that, it's back towards the beginning.

Xfaxman · Oct 1, 2013

The last picture confirms it is too much force from the cylinder and not something like a log hanging out the front pushing up on the lid.

I don't know your cylinder size, but a 2", at 2000 lbs. of hydraulic pressure, has 6283 lbs. and at 2500 lbs., has 7854 lbs. straight pushing force, according to: Baum Hydraulics Corp :: Spec Calculator

If you can't strengthen the front mount enough, you can use a pressure relief valve, to reduce the pressure at the cylinder.

TSO · Oct 1, 2013

Xfaxman said:
The last picture confirms it is too much force from the cylinder and not something like a log hanging out the front pushing up on the lid.

I don't know your cylinder size, but a 2", at 2000 lbs. of hydraulic pressure, has 6283 lbs. and at 2500 lbs., has 7854 lbs. straight pushing force, according to: Baum Hydraulics Corp :: Spec Calculator

If you can't strengthen the front mount enough, you can use a pressure relief valve, to reduce the pressure at the cylinder.

It's a 2" cylinder, 10" stroke... System operates at around 2500psi. I think the "column load" rating for this (from the MFG) is roughly 12,000 lbs !!!!

Where do I find a relief valve, and how does it attach?

Xfaxman · Oct 1, 2013

TSO said:
Well fellas last night I ordered a cylinder, it's 2.5" bore, 8" stroke, non ASAE, 2500psi, straight column load rating around 12500lbs. Should do the trick, now it just needs to get here. Luckily I have all the dimensions needed for the pin spacing so I should b able to fab up everything before it gets here.

QUESTION: is 3/8" hydraulic line Ok? They have 4000psi line in long lengths at my local store.

TSO said:
It's a 2" cylinder, 10" stroke... System operates at around 2500psi. I think the "column load" rating for this (from the MFG) is roughly 12,000 lbs !!!!

Where do I find a relief valve, and how does it attach?

I answered this earlier, but the site was down when I clicked Preview Post and lost it, so I will try again.

If it is the 2.5" cylinder, it has 12,272 pounds of force, so you could replace it with a 2".

If it is a 2", a pressure relief valve would be easier than a redesign. It would go in the extend hose at your rear remote, with a hose to a tee in the return line. Your Farm supply store or big hydraulic shop might have one.

Here is one online source: 1/2 NPT 16 GPM 1000-2500 PSI RELIEF VALVE

TSO · Oct 2, 2013

Xfaxman said:
I answered this earlier, but the site was down when I clicked Preview Post and lost it, so I will try again.

If it is the 2.5" cylinder, it has 12,272 pounds of force, so you could replace it with a 2".

If it is a 2", a pressure relief valve would be easier than a redesign. It would go in the extend hose at your rear remote, with a hose to a tee in the return line. Your Farm supply store or big hydraulic shop might have one.

Here is one online source: 1/2 NPT 16 GPM 1000-2500 PSI RELIEF VALVE

Yeah you were right, I went with 2.5 inch, maybe I should order a 2 inch instead.

However, I did fix the bracket today
and added a support piece for the front, similar to the back. I did not get a chance to check it before work, so I'll see how it does tomorrow.

Xfaxman · Oct 2, 2013

Well now the front bracket looks strong enough to find the the next weakest thing! :laughing:

The cylinder doesn't reach maximum force until the lid stops moving, so don't hold the lever open any longer than necessary.

Use it some more and let us know how it is doing. :thumbsup:

TSO · Oct 2, 2013

Xfaxman said:
Well now the front bracket looks strong enough to find the the next weakest thing! :laughing:

LOL that's exactly right, that's the way I'm looking at it now. I figure by the time it breaks all the weak points this thing will be the heaviest duty grapple on the planet
:confused2:

TSO · Oct 3, 2013

Used it for about 15 minutes today moving various things and didn't break anything! Yaayyyy

I still may grab a less powerful cylinder, but so far so good

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gw8mYcB46t8&feature=youtube_gdata_player

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fbWeTLBIP5I&feature=youtube_gdata_player

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4BuwyWYriUs&feature=youtube_gdata_player

TSO · Oct 3, 2013

btw ... So far, the total cost of this build is right around $430 for the bucket & cylinder, plus $160 for all hydraulic supplies. Total right around $600. Not too shabby!

Guesseral · Oct 3, 2013

Smaller cylinder...........less power............did you say those words out load and listen to them!:shocked:

TSO · Oct 3, 2013

Guesseral said:
Smaller cylinder...........less power............did you say those words out load and listen to them!:shocked:

LOL I know, I know. I just don't want to keep breaking the lid. Actually, when I get around to it I'm going to redesign the living in the house. I want to add a middle time and incorporate that into the attachment point for the cylinder for added strength and efficiency.

TSO · Oct 13, 2013

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QLFd8DOK2rM&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Been using it a ton. .. Going strong!

Kimbell · Oct 14, 2013

Very nice!
Just curious what range/gear and idle you were running in that last #5 video.

TSO · Oct 14, 2013

Kimbell said:
Very nice!
Just curious what range/gear and idle you were running in that last #5 video.

Thanks! Medium range ... I think it was around 2000 rpm or so.

bandaidmd · Oct 14, 2013

when your adding that middle tine some teeth on the stringer between them might be a good addition to keep small stuff from slipping out.
quite possibly that bucket was made of high tensile steel and it got brittle when you welded on the bracket for the cyl.
Great project theres a lot of satisfaction in building you own.

Bigdawg99or1 · Jul 8, 2021

Guesseral said:
Well that really sucks you get all excited because the plan is coming together and then it talks back, man you got to hate that. So what are you going to do? I am not sure an angle would be enough, I would have to cut the brackets off straighten the ripped area weld a 3/8 or 1/2 plate the same width and the whole length across the bucket, but then again I am not there looking at the real problem. Oh by the way really good looking work I like the way you make the brackets that shows real talent.

I was gonna tell him to put a backing plate across it as well!!!! Another thing I would do is make that middle bracket again and this time just round off the back of you don't want it to have a square corner but that way you can then add two more support gussets on the back as well, also on your support gussets grind or cut the corners off on the inside that way water doesn't sit in there and make sure and wrap your welds also if your material your adding is say 3/8" then make sure your putting a 3/8"weld in.... That being said your doing a great job, quality fabrication and imagination, it's one thing to think up something and another to do that and then make it and make it work great job!!!!