I believe it is the correct filter. Yes it does go behind the left foot and lays sideways. I poured oil it and tried to screw it on fast but I am sure some came out. It is a Wix 1736 hydraulic filter screw on type. There is a square threaded plug on top of the plate where the filter screws on, wonder if that would be a bleed screw? I can go take a picture if it would help.
Ford 1510 Hydraulic problems after fluid change
With the filter in place loosen the hex plug on top of the plate enough that oil starts coming out and no air bubbles. I am not sure but that might be the bleed screw. Others might know.
I took a picture and added it to the post 20. Do you have a 1510? What year? Mine is a 1983 and the dipstick length chaged from 9.13" to 7.68" which would mean the capacity would be greater that 4.5 gallons. But this is not been verified. Looking for someone with a 1510 with a serial number grater than UH00206 to verify dipstick measurements.
I looked at the picture, it doesn't look like a bleed screw if it is the one on the clamp, but I don't have a 1510. It is however included in the service manual #FO44 that I have. The picture could have been closer to the filter to tell better. Capacity is 19 quarts. or 4 3/4 gal
JC-jetro
Elite Member
it looks to me the plug is intended to prime the pipe and fill the filter partially. The horizontal part of the intake pipe is surely below the level of the oil in the diffy so if plug is slowly opened (mot all the way) tend to bleed some air before oil comes out.
JC,
JC,
I went out and removed plug. Oil came out, put plug back in while oil coming out. Tried it but no change.
How long should should you run motor to check for operation? I have been doing it for between 1-2 minutes.
Went back out to the shop and looked at the can. It says Ford 134D compatible.
Mike
Here's a picture
How long should should you run motor to check for operation? I have been doing it for between 1-2 minutes.
Went back out to the shop and looked at the can. It says Ford 134D compatible.
Mike
Here's a picture
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JC-jetro
Elite Member
Mike,
I suggest to bypass the filter and sump all together and just check the pump. If the pump works it should empty out a bucket with few gallons in few seconds. I'd take the rubber hose from the lower clamp and put a bucket there and try the pump. That pump should pump with hardly any restriction on the suction side.
JC.
the bucket does say Ford 134
I suggest to bypass the filter and sump all together and just check the pump. If the pump works it should empty out a bucket with few gallons in few seconds. I'd take the rubber hose from the lower clamp and put a bucket there and try the pump. That pump should pump with hardly any restriction on the suction side.
JC.
the bucket does say Ford 134
Appreciate all the suggestions and participation from everyone. Hopefully the problem will be found soon. (I Hope)
I will try that. That would eliminate flow of oil through filter and hopefully verify pump works, provided the O-Ring is okay.
Thanks
Mike
I will try that. That would eliminate flow of oil through filter and hopefully verify pump works, provided the O-Ring is okay.
Thanks
Mike
Check these 2 things again. Both can cause lift to not operate. 1) Make sure Flow Control Valve is open (if you have one). 2) Make sure you don't have a low fluid condition. You should have added 19 quarts. Low fluid will make lift not operate.
Well, I put the old filter back on to eliminate a new defective filter, didn't make a difference. Put new filter back on.
Took rubber hose off that connects the ridged tube from top of pump to lower ridged tube, used a soup can full of fluid and put it over the ridged tube from top of pump. Started tractor and nothing, can still full. Tried a couple of different O-Rings on input tube to pump to try to ensure there is no air leak. No change, even though these are just regular O-Rings out of a kit. They are not the NH O-Rings, they are typical O-rings. The one removed from the tube was like a flat rubber washer, unless in was flatten over time, don't know. So I guess it is possible there is air still passing by the O-rings I tried but I think it would be a long shot.
I am still having a hard time accepting that the pump just died but I guess that is a possibility.
I haven't checked anything on the discharge side of pump. Tubing going to diverter valve, etc.. Can anything on the discharge side cause it not to suck fluid through the pump?
So basically there is now flow through pump.
I have seen reference to 19 Qts. and 27.5 Qts. of oil for this tractor. Maybe 19 Qts for the 9 inch dipstick and 27.5 Qts. for the 7.5 inch dipstick
Mike
Here is a picture of the rubber tube I removed to put the can of oil over the ridged tube coming out of the top of pump. I even tried to check for air leaks in the ridged tube, but didn't find any.
Took rubber hose off that connects the ridged tube from top of pump to lower ridged tube, used a soup can full of fluid and put it over the ridged tube from top of pump. Started tractor and nothing, can still full. Tried a couple of different O-Rings on input tube to pump to try to ensure there is no air leak. No change, even though these are just regular O-Rings out of a kit. They are not the NH O-Rings, they are typical O-rings. The one removed from the tube was like a flat rubber washer, unless in was flatten over time, don't know. So I guess it is possible there is air still passing by the O-rings I tried but I think it would be a long shot.
I am still having a hard time accepting that the pump just died but I guess that is a possibility.
I haven't checked anything on the discharge side of pump. Tubing going to diverter valve, etc.. Can anything on the discharge side cause it not to suck fluid through the pump?
So basically there is now flow through pump.
I have seen reference to 19 Qts. and 27.5 Qts. of oil for this tractor. Maybe 19 Qts for the 9 inch dipstick and 27.5 Qts. for the 7.5 inch dipstick
Mike
Here is a picture of the rubber tube I removed to put the can of oil over the ridged tube coming out of the top of pump. I even tried to check for air leaks in the ridged tube, but didn't find any.
I don't think the pump could have went bad because of draining the fluid either. I think it is more likely that the pump only lost it's prime. Try to remember if you changed any other nuts or bolts or moved something.
It would be nice if some expert mechanics would chime in here. It has to be something simple that is being overlooked.
It would be nice if some expert mechanics would chime in here. It has to be something simple that is being overlooked.
Apparently my tractor had a field repair done on the hydraulic line the goes from the diverter valve to the bottom of tranny. There was a rubber hose splice in that line where it was cut in two. I replaced it with a new piece of hose because it was looking pretty old and worn. So I had to take the line loose at the diverter block and reinstall it. That's it all except for filter and oil. I had waited till the oil change to replace the hose.
But right now the pump will not suck fluid from a can through the short top pipe coming off the pump. I can't think of anything else that would stop that from happening, Unless of course the O-rings I tried aren't sealing well enough to create the vacuum needed or discharge pipe needs to be filled with fluid or something.
Mike
But right now the pump will not suck fluid from a can through the short top pipe coming off the pump. I can't think of anything else that would stop that from happening, Unless of course the O-rings I tried aren't sealing well enough to create the vacuum needed or discharge pipe needs to be filled with fluid or something.
Mike
JC-jetro
Elite Member
gosh, this is the darnest thing
The orings are not at all flat, they are very round when you take the banjo off. it should sit in a groove and tightening the banjo should not flatten it.
why not take discharge banjo off with a bucket under and the same can of oil in the intake. The pump must empty the can of oil in to the bucket if pump is working and not sucking air. Can't see the pump just gone bad.
JC,
The orings are not at all flat, they are very round when you take the banjo off. it should sit in a groove and tightening the banjo should not flatten it.
why not take discharge banjo off with a bucket under and the same can of oil in the intake. The pump must empty the can of oil in to the bucket if pump is working and not sucking air. Can't see the pump just gone bad.
JC,
That's kind of what I was thinking about the O-ring. The one I pulled out was flat on both sides maybe because old or wrong O-ring. Kind of looks link a washer for a water hose connection. The O-rings I tried are regular round O-Rings that sit a little proud of the mating surface so when tightened down I would think would squeeze down and seal off the connection.
So basically do what I already did except with the discharge disconnected from bottom of pump or at the diverter valve? Might be a little easier to catch the fluid at the diverter valve connection. If there was any blockage in the discharge line would it now allow the pump to operate?
When I had the top tube off during all this testing I would put some fluid in the top of the pump for lubrication, but this time I put some fluid in there and bumped the key and it sucked it right down. The pump is definitely turning, when the oil goes down I can see the gear turn.
Mike
So basically do what I already did except with the discharge disconnected from bottom of pump or at the diverter valve? Might be a little easier to catch the fluid at the diverter valve connection. If there was any blockage in the discharge line would it now allow the pump to operate?
When I had the top tube off during all this testing I would put some fluid in the top of the pump for lubrication, but this time I put some fluid in there and bumped the key and it sucked it right down. The pump is definitely turning, when the oil goes down I can see the gear turn.
Mike
I'll take the line loose at both ends, (Pump and Diverter Valve) blow it out with air to ensure the is no blockage. Then reinstall on pump side and leave diverter valve side loose. I guess the discharge has to be clear as well or no volume can pumped.
Mike
Mike
SUCCESS!!!
Just went out to shop to test. I took a shortcut and just disconnected the discharge at the diverter valve, spun it over with starter and had hydraulic flow almost immediately. Let I spin for 15-20 seconds to make sure. Hooked it back up and started tractor and WA-LA. Works like a champ. I guess there must have been a air block between pump bottom and diverter valve. Sure am glad this is over.
Thanks for all the help and suggestions.
Mike
Just went out to shop to test. I took a shortcut and just disconnected the discharge at the diverter valve, spun it over with starter and had hydraulic flow almost immediately. Let I spin for 15-20 seconds to make sure. Hooked it back up and started tractor and WA-LA. Works like a champ. I guess there must have been a air block between pump bottom and diverter valve. Sure am glad this is over.
Thanks for all the help and suggestions.
Mike
