Planning my pole barn, Suggestions welcome.

[PoleBarnGuru]

32x42, 12ft eave

4/12 pitch roof, 12 in overhangs (enclosed). Steel roofing.

Side sheeted with OSB, Tyvec wrap, and vinyle siding.

One 16x10 insulated overhead garage door on gable end, offset to one side.

One man door on rear gable end of building.

I am planning on farming out the truss setting for sure, as well as the roof. I am considering drilling, and cementing post holes, as well as setting post my self [have a FEL.] I am also considering installing wall girts and wall sheeting OSB and Tyvec by myself. I would Farm out the overhead garage door and vinyle siding. I would like to try and get a weathered complete shell up minus electrical and concrete for $12,000 to $15000. The closer to 12k the better. What do you guys think, feasable or not. Do you see anything I missed or should add.
Thanks, Ryan.

A pretty close guess on the materials, which includes the doors, roof insulation, wall sheathing, housewrap and vinyl - delivered $12,600-12,700 based upon today's markets. Steel siding would be far less costly.

 

[gears351]

I just built mine last year - Hansen Pole Buildings .com Sales guy was Jim and they were great to work with. I went steel sided/roof and it's been terrific. Came in about $12k for a 32'x32' 2 story gambrel

 

[deezler]

According to the blog on Hansen's website, dimensional lumber prices have about doubled in the last year. I can confirm this with my last visit to my local lumber yard. Holy cr@p did that suck.

Bummer for me too, I hope to build a 30x40 this year.

 

[hslogger]

I have a pole type livestock barn that we built in four stages. In the first we just put metal down for the roof. All the rest of it we laid down plywood,then paper then metal. It sure is a better way to go and one heck of lot quieter when it rains. My shed that we built a couple years ago, I went the same, metal over paper and plywood. You will never regret it.

 

[doohicky]

Ryan,

check out diypolebarns.com I got mine(30x56x12) from them and they were great to work with. I upgraded my snow load to 55lb. Key thing for me at the time was NO TAX and FREE shipping. You can "custom" build your barn with different options. I liked their design because the 6x6's they give you for the end are big enough for the end trusses to to be nailed to so you have less of a chance of them flopping over. Everything was included in the kit price the cement for the holes to the screws and nails.

 

[PhysAssist]

I just built mine last year - Hansen Pole Buildings .com Sales guy was Jim and they were great to work with. I went steel sided/roof and it's been terrific. Came in about $12k for a 32'x32' 2 story gambrel

The folks at Hansen's (Shirley Lusten was the engineer I corresponded with) were very helpful to me, even though I had advised them that I was involved with another builder already. Our original building contractor used the promise of a mid-November (2012) building start to get us to sign, then when the deadline came and passed without them answering our calls and email, finally admitted that they weren't going to be able to start until the last week of January 2013.

We were only able to get the building started sooner by threatening them with a breach of contract suit and telling them we had gotten a commitment from Hansen to start building in early December.

They finally started in mid-December, without warning, and just barely finished the main structure by year end. The same salesman had supposedly set up our roll-up door to be installed immediately after, but again, after many telephone calls, we finally saw that put in at the end of February.

Our barn is 30' X 45' X 16' walls, gable roofed with the rollup centered in one end, and the man door around the corner on the south side. We got our windows for free plus installation because we agreed to take some odd-sized custom windows that had been turned down by the original orderers. By doing this, we got significantly bigger and better windows than we would otherwise have sprung for. It has metal roof and sides, the posts are 42+" deep, cemented, and laminated out of 3- 2X6's each with the bottom 60" all pressure-treated. It cost in the near neighborhood of $17k, not including site prep.

Our ongoing complaints with the builder are that they used poor lumber with many voids and rough places and did not look at using the "best sides" at all in the exposed boards on sills and all other prominently visible areas, they did not use the specified metal foil backed roof insulation (a fact I only discovered because they were also lazy slobs and left tons of garbage and debris for us to clean up- including the wrapping from one of the rolls of fiberglass insulation with only polyethylene backing), they did not follow the plan drawings for closing the corners of the roofing trim leaving a space for bugs to nest, they tore up up our carefully created building pad, and they didn't even backfill most of the post holes.

Hansen's site and people promised high grades of lumber and showed very close attention to all the details we discussed, but who knows...

Well to provide a word of warning for any located in NYS, stay away from Fingerlakes Construction. For those not in our area, they are part of a bigger building conglomerate called EPS aka Energy Panel Structures.

Wish we had found Hansen's before we signed with FLC :-(

 

[Hiltz]

I hope to break ground on my pole barn shop this summer. I am fairly new to building with wood, but very handy with steel, electricity, and anything hydraulic and or mechanical. I was hoping to get some feedback on my initial plans by the TBN members who are much more experienced with pole barns than myself.

Here are a few relevant local building codes.

6x6 Treated ground contact post required

All footings must be min 42 in. deep. Hole must be 12in dia.

Maximum post spacing is 8ft.

Maximum truss spacing is 4ft.

Double 2x12 header required [both sides of top of post]

Max building height is 35ft

Minimum roof snow load rating is 30lbs. psf.


Here is what I am thinking

32x42, 12ft min wall height, or 14ft max.

4/12 pitch roof, trusses 24in on center, 12 in overhangs. Undecided on steel or asphalt shingle. Cost could be an issue.

Post 6ft on center, 12dia x 48in deep hole with 6in of cement in bottom for post to sit on.

Side sheeted with OSB, Tyvec wrap, and vinyle siding.

One 16x10 or 12 insulated overhead garage door on gable end, offset to one side.

One man door on rear gable end of building.

I am planning on farming out the truss setting for sure, as well as the roof. I am considering drilling, and cementing post holes, as well as setting post my self [have a FEL.] I am also considering installing wall girts and wall sheeting OSB and Tyvec by myself. I would Farm out the overhead garage door and vinyle siding. I would like to try and get a weathered complete shell up minus electrical and concrete for $12,000 to $15000. The closer to 12k the better. What do you guys think, feasable or not. Do you see anything I missed or should add.
Thanks, Ryan.

The old rule of thumb for estimating the size of barns or storage buildings needed is to double the size you think your going to need. For your 32x42 building I would suggest at least 60x80. Its surprising how quickly they fill up.
cheers

 

[MarkM2x2]

I hope to break ground on my pole barn shop this summer. I am fairly new to building with wood, but very handy with steel, electricity, and anything hydraulic and or mechanical. I was hoping to get some feedback on my initial plans by the TBN members who are much more experienced with pole barns than myself.

Here are a few relevant local building codes.

6x6 Treated ground contact post required

All footings must be min 42 in. deep. Hole must be 12in dia.

Maximum post spacing is 8ft.

Maximum truss spacing is 4ft.

Double 2x12 header required [both sides of top of post]

Max building height is 35ft

Minimum roof snow load rating is 30lbs. psf.


Here is what I am thinking

32x42, 12ft min wall height, or 14ft max.

4/12 pitch roof, trusses 24in on center, 12 in overhangs. Undecided on steel or asphalt shingle. Cost could be an issue.

Post 6ft on center, 12dia x 48in deep hole with 6in of cement in bottom for post to sit on.

Side sheeted with OSB, Tyvec wrap, and vinyle siding.

One 16x10 or 12 insulated overhead garage door on gable end, offset to one side.

One man door on rear gable end of building.

I am planning on farming out the truss setting for sure, as well as the roof. I am considering drilling, and cementing post holes, as well as setting post my self [have a FEL.] I am also considering installing wall girts and wall sheeting OSB and Tyvec by myself. I would Farm out the overhead garage door and vinyle siding. I would like to try and get a weathered complete shell up minus electrical and concrete for $12,000 to $15000. The closer to 12k the better. What do you guys think, feasable or not. Do you see anything I missed or should add.
Thanks, Ryan.

Ryan,
Why dick around with a pole building? Just do it right and stick build it. When you start with a pole building you fight it forever, there a bugger to insulate, you don't have to studs to hang anything on, you have to hit a perlin running side ways. I built my building in phases over 6 years. Started with a 28' X 36' 12" grade beam slab, three rows of concrete block, anchor bolts with coupling nuts and ready rod lined up so top plate is anchored to slab. 14' side wall with 12' X 12' door, 3' entry door front and rear, two windows in back one in front, 6" walls 1/2 OSB both sides, 12" blown in fiber glass in ceiling. 4/12 roof pitch. Heated with LanAir 140 waste oil heater. Second phase, 20' X 36' addition, same 3 rows of blocks, 10' wide X 8' tall, 3' service door one window in back same size as the shop. 16" Lam beams follow roof line, removed bottom row of screws pushed metal up and slipped addition metal under neath. Third Phase, mirror image of first. Fourth Phase; Concrete apron 64' X 8' all the way across, 24' X 20' in the middle. Fifth Phase; 12" cement board, aluminum sofit and facia, 2' overhang front and rear, 32" on sides. Sixth Phase; 12' W X 28' L X 10' tall on low side, lean to off back. Building is kept a 50 degrees f, takes 300-400 gallons of used oil, located in Northern WI
Here's a picture of the front 014.jpg Photo by Mark2X2 | Photobucket
Mark

 

[PoleBarnGuru]

Just got done building a 24x36x12 last year. My first pole barn.

Great planing with these dimensions.

With most snow and wind loads, multiples of 12' in width and length provide the best bang for the buck.

Why??

Steel roofing and siding come in 3' widths. Lumber comes in multiples of 2'. Going for the most efficient use of lumber for girts and purlins, as well as steel roofing and siding dictates a multiple of 6.

The worst part of any building project? Dirt - it is the intangible. The fewer holes to big dug, the less chance of hitting the rock the size of a Volkswagon.

By placing columns every 12', it reduces digging and the number of columns which must be set. By using double trusses every 12', attached directly to the columns, it eliminates the need for "truss carriers" which are typically under designed.

 

[PoleBarnGuru]

I'd be somewhat hesitant to put drywall in a pole building as they have a slight amount of movement that could crack your mud joints.

A properly designed pole building is no more likely to have drywall cracks, than a stick frame building.

A CODE CONFORMING post frame building which is designed to limit deflection, is the answer. If no RDP (registered design professional - architect or engineer) is involved in the design, or the Building Designer is unaware of the desire for future drywall - then the deflection criteria is not the same, and cracks could result.