Pole Barn Sizing

[grsthegreat]

On my 4 post, after its raised empty, there isnt enough clearance for my vehicles. Only 6’ clearance. Ones used for storage usually raise up higher.

 

[RayIN]

My pole barn has 15' sidewalls. I built a loft in one corner, below it is my storage, the loft is DW's storage for yard decorations.
IMO 15' is the minimum for housing an RV, and I still have to negotiate around/under roof truss's when working on the roof of my motorhome.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

Go 16' walls and 14' door. At least one door should go 14' anyway, so you can get a future RV in and out of the building. My 5th wheel just goes under my 14' door. And my building is 40x70, which looked huge when we bought the place and the building was empty. Now it's full, lol. I'd like to extend it and get rid of the one @#$%! sliding "barn door" that the original owner thought was a good idea. NEVER put a sliding door on an exterior of a building in snow country! Door is unusable all winter long, which complicates the building's use. In winter I only have the one roll up door on the end of the building to bring equipment in and out of.

 

[Runner]

I am designing a pole barn and need opinions from people who already have one.

Already decided specs:
48'x72'
Attic trusses with 16' wide room
12' wrap around porch on one corner extending 24' each on eave and gable end
(6) 2'x6' transom windows
3 service doors
Radiant heat slab
Spray insulation
Tyvek wrapped
Full bath
NG


One of the last things needed to be decided is the sidewall height and door(s) sizing. I currently have it spec'd at 12' walls and (1) 12'x10' door. It would cost $3k more to go with 16' walls and (1) 12'x14' door. Is it worth it? Do I need more overhead doors? What does 16' walls get me besides increased heating/cooling volume and more expensive lighting?

If you think you will EVER want to store a motor home or travel trailer, go with 16 foot walls (and at least one 14 foot door?). You might even want to go with 16' walls just for resale value, i.e., the next buyer might have an RV.

As for doors, only you know your needs. Are you going to be storing vehicles, tractors, trailers, etc.? I have a 36 x 48 and went with (2) 20 foot wide doors on the long side and have been extremely happy with that decision.

 

[Lucky_Ducky]

I plan on sectioning off a portion (probably 22x48) for a conditioned wood shop. The rest will be for farm storage, mechanic work, and welding. The only equipment that will currently be stored in there is a tractor and UTV.

The thought of making it RV-proof is really the only reason I am considering the extra height.

 

[EddieWalker]

My current shop has 12 foot walls and I'm planning on them being the same height when I build my next shop. I do all my own building and I can't justify going any taller then 12 foot.

My last shop had a 12 foot wide door and my current shop has 10 foot wide door. I'll never do 10 foot wide again, it's just too tight.

Insulation is probably the most overlooked thing. Closed Cell foam is the best thing out there, but it's the most expensive. If you are going to have wood framed walls, fiberglass and house wrap works fine for a lot less money. If you are going to have wood trusses, you can save a bunch of money by adding a ceiling and blowing in R60 insulation. If you are framing with metal, closed cell is your only real option for good insulation.

Open cell holds moisture and a lot of metal companies will void their warrantee if you use open cell. I've personally seen very high dollar houses with open cell insulation that has completely ruined their roofs. Not just the shingles deteriorating quickly in just a few years, but also the decking having to be replaced. I'm not saying its the reason those houses where "For Sale" but I am saying that I recommended to my clients to not buy those houses because of the damage caused by the open cell insulation.

 

[jmc]

Mine's 53x36x14'. Morton recommended a 14' minimum opening so they could drive a concrete truck in for the floor way back. Otherwise, it was pumping it back there. (or watering it down- which Morton doesn't do.)

They said it didn't cost much more for an extra 2' of height. Plenty of clearance for a retracted backhoe.

If you put in a liner, think about a perforated liner for sound adsorption. Part of my smaller barn is insulated/drywall. The other part is
insulated/perforated. No echo in the latter.