Liquid filled tires

[cleat]

I finally got around to filling my rear tires. Tire size is 15-19.5NHS R4. I used RV antifreeze and put in around 220 litres (58 gallons). Total cost was around $210.00.

I figure I just added around 470lbs to the rear of my tractor. That should help with traction and stability.

I used a small submersible pump in a pail and an old hose from a tire pump to fill the tires until liquid was at the valve with the valve at the 12:00 position. Took around 2 hours to do both tires.

Hopefully I will not require 4x4 as often.

Cleat

 

[lew61]

"I used a small submersible pump in a pail and an old hose from a tire pump to fill the tires until liquid was at the valve with the valve at the 12:00 position."
When I filled my tires, I was told to fill to 70% rather than 100%. You need air in the tire ~30% to provide a cushion.

 

[Bob Rooks]

Straight anti-freeze won't provide freeze protect either. Must be mixed with water: 75% max. Also, what will happen when the weather gets hot and the anti-freeze expands with no air? Will the tire expand at the same rate? Hope so.

 

[sam5570]

yeah you need to get some of the antifreeze out of tires 70% is correct, i don't know where the idea came from that pure antifreeze will freeze but it's not so that's all i have used in my vehicles and tractor's sence 1970's i drain everything out start engine run till thrmostat opens drain it all and fill back with pure antifreeze.

 

[PRF]

Unmixed glycol antifreeze will freeze at around 0 to -5*F.. It also won't dissipate heat as well.. Always best to mix 50/50 with distilled water, at least for engine use that is.

 

[powerpace]

With 100% fill there is a possibility if you bounce a little hard the tire will break the bead and there goe's the fluid.

 

[cleat]

It's filled to the top of the rim, not the top of the tire. Still took lots of air to bring back up to pressure. The RV antifreeze I bought is to be used at 100% strength.

Cleat

 

[Rich Waugh]

Antifreeze intended for use at jug strength has already been diluted to 50/50 or thereabouts so you're fine. The amount of air you have remaining in the tire is fine, too. I filled my ties that way, using plain water with just a dab of biocide, and I've had no problems. It doesn't even get close to freezing here so no worries on that front, and that is enough air to allow for tire flexion on even hard drops and bashes. I'm sure glad I didn't have to buy a couple hundred bucks worth of antifreeze - another good reason to live here!

 

[cleat]

In reality I didn't need the antifreeze either as my tractor sits in a heated shop unless it's working blowing or clearing snow. I am hoping the antifreeze will protect the wheels from corrosion as I do not have tubes.

 

[greg_g]

You should be just fine. Assuming you didn't dilute it, typical RV anti-freeze is good down to -50F. There's even some double strength stuff that's good down to -100F. Given that it's intended for use in potable water systems, it's also non-toxic and biodegradable. And it depends upon rim design, but filling to a stem that's positioned at high noon pretty much guarantees a 70% to 75% fill.

But compared to Rimguard, RV anti-freeze is lighter and more expensive. RimGuard is basically diluted beet molasses, which doesn't start to firm up till about -35F. At ~8.8 pounds/gal, RV anti-freeze is only marginally heavier than water. I had 88 gallons of RimGuard pumped into the R4s on my 3720 (I filled all four). It weighs 11.3 pounds to the gallon, and cost $2.70/gal installed. So for $237, I added nearly 1000# to my 37290 - and didn't even get my hands dirty.

And for those who haven't done any liquid ballasting, expansion is not a problem. It's simply a matter of filling to the 12 o'clock valve stem, then topping up with compressed air to the recommended pressure. You can even get a special pressure gauge, one designed for liquid filled tires. It's got a check valve to prevent any of the liquid from back-filling the gauge under pressure.

//greg//

 

[cleat]

Up here in Canada I was quoted $600.00 to fill with beet juice. I don't know if I am actually too heavy now. I need to get the tractor weighed to make sure I am not over my trailer weight capacity and truck license.

Also, I do mow my grass all summer and do not wish to make ruts in the lawn.

Thanks, Cleat

 

[ovrszd]

Got lots of experts on this thread huh Cleat....

I used windshield washer fluid. Got a smokin deal at the local auto dealership. 180 gallon for $200. Filled to 12 oclock is perfect. I pumped mine in similar to how you did it. Kinda slow but worked fine. And like you,,, locally the tire shops wanted an insane amount of money to add RimGuard.

You'll notice a big difference of the tractor's ability now.

Lastly, didn't realize the myth of straight anti-freeze freezing was still alive??? Guess they better quit storing it in unheated warehouses and hauling it in unheated trucks huh...

 

[Bob Rooks]

Got lots of experts on this thread huh Cleat....

I used windshield washer fluid. Got a smokin deal at the local auto dealership. 180 gallon for $200. Filled to 12 oclock is perfect. I pumped mine in similar to how you did it. Kinda slow but worked fine. And like you,,, locally the tire shops wanted an insane amount of money to add RimGuard.

You'll notice a big difference of the tractor's ability now.

Lastly, didn't realize the myth of straight anti-freeze freezing was still alive??? Guess they better quit storing it in unheated warehouses and hauling it in unheated trucks huh...

Sorry to hear that your eyes have gone bad and you can't read anymore, or you just plain chose to ignore post #5.
Please show us your credentials sir.

 

[ovrszd]

Sorry to hear that your eyes have gone bad and you can't read anymore, or you just plain chose to ignore post #5.
Please show us your credentials sir.

Sorry I ruffled your feathers Bob. But then you obviously didn't read post #1 where he stated he filled to the valve stem at 12 oclock. Last time I looked I had a lot of air space left in my tire when the fluid level is at the stem at 12 oclock. I'm actually unsure how a person could possibly fill the tire 100% with fluid and leave no space for air?? Maybe we need to see your credentials Sir???

 

[Bob Rooks]

Sorry I ruffled your feathers Bob. But then you obviously didn't read post #1 where he stated he filled to the valve stem at 12 oclock. Last time I looked I had a lot of air space left in my tire when the fluid level is at the stem at 12 oclock. I'm actually unsure how a person could possibly fill the tire 100% with fluid and leave no space for air?? Maybe we need to see your credentials Sir???

Licensed Chief Engineer & certified master mechanic with many years of experience and education. And you? Don't be shy now.
When I worked for Cat back in the day we filled 944 & 988 loader tires with a calcium chloride solution to 95%. There are adapters to do it.
Btw, you didn't ruffle my feathers, it was your blatant remark about "the myth of anti-freeze" that caught my eye.

I digress.

 

[greg_g]

Got lots of experts on this forum.....Lastly, didn't realize the myth of straight anti-freeze freezing was still alive???

Seems the definition of "expert" is rather loose in your neck of the woods. Freezing temp for undiluted antifreeze intended for use in liquid cooled engines is -12C. It's clearly going to be news to you that adding water - up to a certain dilution point - actually lowers the freezing point. I don't even want to consider opening the discussion to boiling points.

And like the RV fluid, there's nothing wrong with windshield fluid in tires. But where you're shortsighted is in valuing ballast in terms of dollars per gallon.. The real value measurement is dollars per pound. RV antifreeze for the OP cost him a little over 0.41/lb (CDN). My RimGuard cost me less than 0.24/lb (US). That $237 put about 425# in each rear and 75# in each front. You got your WWF for ~0.15/lb. But did you actually confirm the freezing point? Don't for get that summer WWF freezes in the winter

That said, I can't speak to the price of RimGuard in Missouri or Canada. I bought mine in Western Kentucky, less than 50 miles from the MO border..But at least give other folks a little credit for knowing how to to get the most for their money - regardless of where they live

//greg//

 

[cleat]

Sorry to have caused such controversy. I was just happy to have added some ballast to my tractor. Rim guard was too expensive and I was worried about too much weight. WW fluid would have been slightly cheaper but more toxic in case of a leak. Regular glycol antifreeze is really toxic and calcium would quickly destroy my rims and is also hard on vegitation in case of a leak.

I have had no real issues with traction with no liquid ballast but did reqire 4x4 to plow snow and to move the tractor on occasion with a full bucket of oversize rocks.

 

[ovrszd]

Licensed Chief Engineer & certified master mechanic with many years of experience and education. And you? Don't be shy now.
When I worked for Cat back in the day we filled 944 & 988 loader tires with a calcium chloride solution to 95%. There are adapters to do it.
Btw, you didn't ruffle my feathers, it was your blatant remark about "the myth of anti-freeze" that caught my eye.

I digress.

Again, I apologize for getting you so upset. I don't recall pointing you out by name. I simply commented that this thread gathered a LOT of opinions of varying degree of accuracy. I even used smiley face to lighten the mood. I don't recall the OP mentioning use of any type of adapter when filling his tires and he clearly stated how he filled them. You still commented that the tire might be stressed in some manner by overfilling?? But for some reason it was you that called my statements out as being inaccurate. Then you asked to see my credentials as if that framed paper would make any difference in the facts at all. As for the freezing issue there are several types of antifreeze that each have their own freeze resistance. The type he used will be fine, especially since he also stated that he stores inside.

Again, I'm sorry if I offended you in any way Bob.

 

[ovrszd]

Seems the definition of "expert" is rather loose in your neck of the woods. Freezing temp for undiluted antifreeze intended for use in liquid cooled engines is -12C. It's clearly going to be news to you that adding water - up to a certain dilution point - actually lowers the freezing point. I don't even want to consider opening the discussion to boiling points.

And like the RV fluid, there's nothing wrong with windshield fluid in tires. But where you're shortsighted is in valuing ballast in terms of dollars per gallon.. The real value measurement is dollars per pound. RV antifreeze for the OP cost him a little over 0.41/lb (CDN). My RimGuard cost me less than 0.24/lb (US). That $237 put about 425# in each rear and 75# in each front. You got your WWF for ~0.15/lb. But did you actually confirm the freezing point? Don't for get that summer WWF freezes in the winter

That said, I can't speak to the price of RimGuard in Missouri or Canada. I bought mine in Western Kentucky, less than 50 miles from the MO border..But at least give other folks a little credit for knowing how to to get the most for their money - regardless of where they live

//greg//

Greg, as I stated to Bob, I was simply stating that there were a lot of varied opinions in this thread. I never gave a definition of expert nor did I claim to be one.

As I said above, the type of antifreeze he used will be fine. You actually stated that in your previous statements as well. Now we can dig around and find a certain antifreeze that will have a lesser degree of protection from freezing but it would be a mute point since we already know what he used. I was referencing that type with my statement about the myth.

As for the discussion of value in "weight gained" versus "gallons bought". I totally agree with you. Also your own numbers prove why it was cheaper for me to use WWF. I gained 1500lbs for $200 US. And as the OP stated his costs were totally prohibitive at his location to use Rimguard as they were in my location.

As for my freezing point, yes, I ordered Winter WWF.

Lastly, I ALWAYS give people credit for EVERYTHING they do and post on here. As I now give the OP credit for taking initiative and finding an economical solution to his problem.

Sometimes we just all need to lean back and read thru the posts a second or even third time before responding.

 

[ovrszd]

Sorry to have caused such controversy. I was just happy to have added some ballast to my tractor. Rim guard was too expensive and I was worried about too much weight. WW fluid would have been slightly cheaper but more toxic in case of a leak. Regular glycol antifreeze is really toxic and calcium would quickly destroy my rims and is also hard on vegitation in case of a leak.

I have had no real issues with traction with no liquid ballast but did reqire 4x4 to plow snow and to move the tractor on occasion with a full bucket of oversize rocks.

You caused no controversy at all. Open discussion and the exchange of ideas has educated us all. Glad you found a solution and I commend you for working it all out in a manner that best serves YOU. :thumbsup: