Which MIG wire is the best.

[dex3361]

Go to Wal-Mart or the dollar store, and try on different pairs of reading glasses. May want to measure the distance from your eyes to the conformable welding area. Then when you're at the store hold up something with small print at that same distance. That way you get the correct power of reading glasses. I went through this about 7 or 8 years ago.

That would be a problem as I already have bifocal glasses.

 

[dex3361]

What I mean by stick out, is the distance between the puddle and the contact tip. I run about 3/8-inch.
Sometimes I move the gas nozzle back where the contact tip is sticking out an 1/8-inch or so. Other times I have the contact tip flush with the end of the gas nozzle. A lot of different opinions about this, you'll have to find what works best for you.

Oh OK, I am sure that I didnt pay close enough attention to the stick out. Since I looked at the guides you posted that is likely some of my spatter issue this evening.

 

[ChristianHF]

Maybe something like this Dex? Miller Welding Helmet Magnifying Lens 212235

 

[dex3361]

Maybe something like this Dex? Miller Welding Helmet Magnifying Lens 212235

Something like that just might help if I can find one to fit my cheapo HF auto darkening hood.

 

[Shield Arc]

That would be a problem as I already have bifocal glasses.

I wear progressive bifocals for everyday walking around, but they drive me crazy searching for the right spot while welding. I have one pair of dollar store reading glasses for wire feed, and stick welding, and another pair of reading glasses for Tig welding. But this is one of the few things we can't help you with, you have to figure out what works best for you.

 

[CNC Dan]

Something like that just might help if I can find one to fit my cheapo HF auto darkening hood.

I have that hood, and I just used some of that blue masking tape to hold a magnifier lense in place.
I have a second hood without that I use for stick welding.

 

[muddstopper]

I use a magnifying lens in my hood. It drives everybody crazy that trys to borrow it. LOL, My bifocals I usually just take off since I have the magnifyer in the hood. My regular perscription calls for 2.25 manification in the lower bifocal part of my glasses and this is the manification I chose for the hood lens.

Did I mention that having a magnifying hood lens means nobody wants to borrow your hood???

 

[dex3361]

I use a magnifying lens in my hood. It drives everybody crazy that trys to borrow it. LOL, My bifocals I usually just take off since I have the magnifyer in the hood. My regular perscription calls for 2.25 manification in the lower bifocal part of my glasses and this is the manification I chose for the hood lens.

Did I mention that having a magnifying hood lens means nobody wants to borrow your hood???

Going to pick up a magnifying lens if for this reason alone.

 

[dex3361]

I have that hood, and I just used some of that blue masking tape to hold a magnifier lense in place.
I have a second hood without that I use for stick welding.

That ill work and I may give this method a try myself. Improvise. :thumbsup:

 

[Todd727]

I haven't had any issues with that Radnor wire

 

[yomax4]

The 2# and 10# Radnor are Lincoln Sure Arc made in Mexico. The larger spools and drums are National Standard, made in Oklahoma. L-56 is surely the benchmark wire but ESAB 86 is very good as well. Most people wouldn't know the difference between 90 cent wire and 2 dollar wire and it really doesn't matter unless you are in production or sell your product to the public. Praxair Pro-Star wire is sold as a lower cost wire but is good enough that Bob Cat makes their skid loaders with it.

 

[dex3361]

So taking the advice of the TBN braintrust I picked up a cheater lens. Wow I can see and that helped. I also picked up a better solid brass ground clamp and that made a difference. I also practiced some more and that always helps. Here are a few pics of the welds.











This is the jeep that I am getting ready to repair and upgrade. It has some rust issues but has a lot of life left.

 

[dex3361]

I also shortened the stick out. That also helped

 

[dex3361]

Well I ordered the floor pan for the jeep that I am getting into running order. I resist saying rebuilding or refurbing because I am not concerned with a show piece but a solid dependable off road machine that is still a good highway vehicle. The metal is 18 gauge which is 0.050" or right at 1/20" thick so it should easier to weld than the 0.030 thick 22 gauge practice metal. I will post pics of the rookie sheetmetal welds as soon as I get it in. If any experienced sheet metal body men have words of wisdo I am all ears. I plan on stich welding in about 2" and jumping to another side till its welded all around.

 

[yomax4]

Once you can see correctly and have the right gas, you can look again at wire. If you have a gun less than 15' you can get nice welds with ESAB Easy Grind .023 wire ( .030 avail too ) This wire has no real AWS spec because it has added Silicon. It flows nice and grinds better. Still has a good tensile strength. With proper gun angle you will get no spatter but you will get silicon islands that will need to be removed if you plan to paint your welds. I have welded a lot of 28ga. with EG.023. good luck.

 

[dex3361]

Once you can see correctly and have the right gas, you can look again at wire. If you have a gun less than 15' you can get nice welds with ESAB Easy Grind .023 wire ( .030 avail too ) This wire has no real AWS spec because it has added Silicon. It flows nice and grinds better. Still has a good tensile strength. With proper gun angle you will get no spatter but you will get silicon islands that will need to be removed if you plan to paint your welds. I have welded a lot of 28ga. with EG.023. good luck.

I tried some .023 and I keep getting he bird nest thing at the drive wheel. The .030 Lincoln seems to be working well but I may try the ESAB wire next spool.

 

[crazyal]

One thing I like to do is spot weld sheet metal repairs. If at all possible I try to replace the whole panel by using a 4 1/2" grinder to remove the metal on the bad panel at each spot weld then I punch holes on the new panel at the same distance the spot welds were. I simply clamp the two pieces of metal together and fill in the holes with the MIG. I've never gotten any warp and it's just as strong as the original weld. Plus, if you want, you can touch the welds up with the grinder and the repair is almost invisible. My Lincoln has a timed setting that works well for doing this type of welding.

 

[dex3361]

One thing I like to do is spot weld sheet metal repairs. If at all possible I try to replace the whole panel by using a 4 1/2" grinder to remove the metal on the bad panel at each spot weld then I punch holes on the new panel at the same distance the spot welds were. I simply clamp the two pieces of metal together and fill in the holes with the MIG. I've never gotten any warp and it's just as strong as the original weld. Plus, if you want, you can touch the welds up with the grinder and the repair is almost invisible. My Lincoln has a timed setting that works well for doing this type of welding.

I am going to stich weld the pan with a preformed piece and grind out all the rust and lap the pieces about 1 inch or so. Thanks for the advice.

 

[Arc weld]

Autobody welding is a series of tacks. Unless you're really good, don't try to do welds of any length. If you don't burn through, you'll have more warpage from the heat. Put tacks every 6", then every 3", etc. and keep jumping around to limit heat input until the whole seam is tacked. Then grind it flat but also be careful how hot it gets.

 

[dex3361]

I will take this advice. I plan on small tacks all around but it wool be totally welded. I am going to lap joint it though it would be nearly impossible for me to fillet weld as I wouldn't be able to get the gap consistent.