How can I run a sewer line trench under a mobile home?

[ben2go]

I recently posted about a mobile home I own that has been having trouble with the septic system.After leveling the MH and doing a lot of other work,we decided to rerun the main sewer line from the MH to the septic tank.It had the wrong type pipe with to many bends and joints,it also to small for my liking.We are upgrading FROM 3 inch abs TO 4 inch bell mouth sewer pipe.Sediment washing under the MH pushed the old 3 inch pipe up enough that waste would settle in the pipe.So now I need to trench under the MH which sits below grade.I can't physically get under there.I am to big and I am a small guy.No one I know can fit.How can I run a trench 15 feet long 12 inches deep and wide enough for 4 inch pipe under this MH?I tried a shovel and I can only get a couple feet under there.I don't want to dig down no more than I have tnce we have the pipe in,I will take the necessary steps to make sure water and sediment don't get back under there.

 

[/pine]

Just curious...even if you could get the trench dug...how would you make the connection?

 

[ben2go]

Just curious...even if you could get the trench dug...how would you make the connection?

It's a straight run so I can assemble the pipe on the end that is above grade and push it out the end to the septic tank.only about the first 1/4 of the trailer is at or below grade.It sits on a slope.This MH wasn't properly set up.I am making the best of it since the local authority will not issue permits to allow me to move and reset the MH.Because the MH is over 20 years old they won't allow me to move it and reset it,and our local utility company has been contracted not to restore power to any MH over 20 years after it's been disconnected.It's always some red tape getting in the way.

 

[/pine]

Without a picture it is hard to imagine the exact issue...but it sounds like digging access is the hard but logical option...

Any chance you could make a water jet (garden hose and 3/4" pvc) and jet the earth out of the way?

 

[ben2go]

Without a picture it is hard to imagine the exact issue...but it sounds like digging access is the hard but logical option...

Any chance you could make a water jet (garden hose and 3/4" pvc) and jet the earth out of the way?

I had considered that but it would flood the trench I have already dug to the setic tank and flood under the MH.I am concerned about settlement and washing out around/under the piers.

 

[jerrybob]

I know you said it was a tight fit.....but you can't find a flexible teenager to get under there? There are companies that have equipment for directional boring but that would be expensive. How about tunneling to where you need to get to.....more digging but......good luck!

 

[stuckmotor]

I've seen house movers on TV dig under houses with long arms rigged onto the front of a skid steer loader. I think they attached them to pallet forks.

 

[bcp]

I think I would get an electric garden tiller, remove the wheels and outer pair of tines, and use it to loosen the dirt. Might need a handle extension. Then pull the loose dirt out with a long handled hoe. If the ground is hard, you could probably use a soaker hose to soften it without causing a washout.

Bruce

 

[timswi]

I had considered that but it would flood the trench I have already dug to the setic tank and flood under the MH.I am concerned about settlement and washing out around/under the piers.

How far back is the facility connection?...On a MH not a DW it can't be more than say 10'...I'd rent/borrow a small BH like a Kubota BX and use that to dig down enough to crawl under and as far in as it will go..Probably around 8' horizontal...then hand dig the last few feet in that trench...A couple pickup loads of gravel would bring you to pipe grade.

You'd have to go deeper than you want, but it'd be minimal back breaking work that way. A few hundred bucks and part of a weekend from the limited info provided.

 

[creekbend]

Dear Sir: Just a thought? Whatever method you employ, please be sure to have a permit and inspection done. I say this because the pipe has to have a gradient level in order for the waste to reach the septic tank. The inspector will check to see if all fittings are secure and that the correct scheldue PVC pipe is used. He will also check with a level to see if the PVC pipe meets the criteria to allow for the correct flow of the waste material. Rest assured that this will save you a lot of grief in the Future. The cost of a permit and inspection is miniscule compared to doing it incorrectly. Doing it incorrectly, may even jeopardize your homeowners insurance. Just a thought. Thanks for listening.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

I did this type stuff when I was young, no way now, but: Stay with 4" ABS pipe in 20' lengths that way you only have the final connection to make under the MH. Its friction factor is far better than concrete or Cast Iron pipe and much easier to handle and keep straight. You start pushing concrete pipe around and it will look like a snake and the bells make it a bear to bed in tight spots. If it isn't gasketed you then have to seal the joints which requires solid bedding to stay intact. Start digging the trench say 10 feet away from the side of the MH, go 2' wide so you have room to work. You need to be at least 18" deep to get below any winter frost line. then just keep digging ahead till you get to the connection point. You will be laying down soon after but it works even if slow. Grade the pipe at min 1/4" foot. Going that deep will prevent frost heaving which is probably what happened before. If the low spot is crossed and the soil is saturated with water, winter freeze will cause your problem all over again. If so put about 4" of pea gravel under and over the pipe. It is self compacting so fill to the top. Try to drain the trench down stream if you can and the water will drain from under the MH and the pipe. Hope you Septic tank is deep enough to grade into it, if not, it then is pump time.

I know what you mean on regulation. If I applied for a permit for every thing I do , as required, I would never get to do anything. So, I just do it. I am out in the country so surveillance is pretty minimal so we get by with a lot. All the neighbors feel the same so no whistle blowers.

 

[timswi]

Dear Sir: Just a thought? Whatever method you employ, please be sure to have a permit and inspection done. I say this because the pipe has to have a gradient level in order for the waste to reach the septic tank. The inspector will check to see if all fittings are secure and that the correct scheldue PVC pipe is used. He will also check with a level to see if the PVC pipe meets the criteria to allow for the correct flow of the waste material. Rest assured that this will save you a lot of grief in the Future. The cost of a permit and inspection is miniscule compared to doing it incorrectly. Doing it incorrectly, may even jeopardize your homeowners insurance. Just a thought. Thanks for listening.

True...Check your local codes first...When I did mine here it was 1/4" over 3' horizontal...You dont want too much or too little drop...

 

[timswi]

I did this type stuff when I was young, no way now, but: Stay with 4" ABS pipe in 20' lengths that way you only have the final connection to make under the MH. Its friction factor is far better than concrete or Cast Iron pipe and much easier to handle and keep straight. You start pushing concrete pipe around and it will look like a snake and the bells make it a bear to bed in tight spots. If it isn't gasketed you then have to seal the joints which requires solid bedding to stay intact. Start digging the trench say 10 feet away from the side of the MH, go 2' wide so you have room to work. You need to be at least 18" deep to get below any winter frost line. then just keep digging ahead till you get to the connection point. You will be laying down soon after but it works even if slow. Grade the pipe at min 1/4" foot. Going that deep will prevent frost heaving which is probably what happened before. If the low spot is crossed and the soil is saturated with water, winter freeze will cause your problem all over again. If so put about 4" of pea gravel under and over the pipe. It is self compacting so fill to the top. Try to drain the trench down stream if you can and the water will drain from under the MH and the pipe. Hope you Septic tank is deep enough to grade into it, if not, it then is pump time.

I know what you mean on regulation. If I applied for a permit for every thing I do , as required, I would never get to do anything. So, I just do it. I am out in the country so surveillance is pretty minimal so we get by with a lot. All the neighbors feel the same so no whistle blowers.

Good advise...The codes do differ but I also try to follow them for the region given that there is a base reason for them..1" over 4' might be the new code ...Haven't had a reason to check thankfully.

I have replaced well lines under decks that are similar to the OP's situation and it worked per my prior post.

 

[ben2go]

All good options.Unfortunately,I am doing this on a shoe string budget.The county doesn't require a permit but does state 1" per 4'.No problem there.The connection under the MH is 55 feet from the tongue end which is below grade.It's another 6 feet from the MH to the septic tank.My teenage son is long and lean and he can't get under there.That was my last resort before try something else.The pipe I'm using is 4" x 10' bell mouth PVC as suggested by the code enforcement officer.It's the only thing I could find locally.Our soil is red clay with the occasional fist size boulder thrown in for good luck.:laughing: I'm getting ready to get out there soon as the sun gets up.I'll check back in.

 

[stuckmotor]

Is the soil wet enough that you could put a 20' handle on a shovel or spade, ram it into the dirt, and drag it out?

 

[Al 2]

A company like Badger Daylighting Dig it! Hydrovac excavation, slot trenching and shoring solutions by Badger Daylighting would be able to do something like that. Trouble is, they are not in your area and a are expensive.
Al

 

[/pine]

OK just an off the wall idea...FWIW...
Don't know what the earth around there is (rocky, hard pan clay etc.)...perhaps you could possibly improvise using a mobile home anchor (similar to a PHD auger) I have seen them up to 8' long...you could possibly use a short iron pipe as a 'T' handle through the clevis end of the anchor and use it as horizontal bore...

 

[Deere Dude]

Is it possible to go in from the side which should be only a few feet and then run it along the perimeter length of the house, You would just need a couple long sweep elbows.

 

[dave1949]

I've never seen a mobile home below grade. I mean, it's not like they are rated for direct burial. :laughing:

Could you remove the soil that is in the way, level it off allowing access? The next time you have a problem, it wouldn't be so difficult to get at.

 

[oldnslo]

Get a short handled shovel and start digging. It will be slow PITA process but longer ditches have been dug by hand. I have hand dug both sewer and water lines under houses in my younger days. Biggest problem is usually getting rid of the dirt, sore knees and back.