3-Point Hitch Stabilizer Bar longer than the Lift Arms.

[Rick230]

I'm very new to tractors. I've just used a walk behind tiller and a shovel in the past. I just bought a 1952 Ford 8N (In awesome shape) and am attaching a middle buster. The top link attached fine. Both lift arms attached fine. But not the stabilizer bars. I measured from the center of the attachment point on the middle buster to the center of the stabilizer bracket attachment point. It measured 31 inches on each side with the middle buster centered. The holes in the stabilizer bar measure 31 1/2 inches from center hole to center hole. I had to move the attachment point of the stabilizer bracket one hole toward the front.
Now the bars fit ok but the middle buster head is about 2 inches to the right of center.

Is this ok or does it have to be centered?

I have noticed on diagrams that some people use an adjustable stabilizer bar on one or both sides.

I guess this would work to bring it back to center, other than the cost of the bar or bars.

Any hints or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Rick230

 

[jenkinsph]

Did you move both stabilizer bars forward one hole or just one of them? Second question would be are the stabilizer attachment points fixed or adjustable along the axle housing? If adjustible are they spaced evenly from the center of the tractor? Last but not least did you compare the stabilizer bars to verify the length and that the holes you used are aligned?

 

[gwdixon]

Two inches one way or the other won't make enough difference to notice using a middle buster.

Just hook it up an use it. Oh...and have fun.

Old tractors are a joy to operate for a while. But everyone seems to want an upgrade after a time.

 

[Rick230]

Jenkinsph,

The stabilizer attachment points are adjustable. The problem is that from center hole to center hole of the lift arm is 31 inches, the centers of the stabilizer bars are 31 1/2 inches. I moved the attachment point at the axle back to the next hole. Doing that I was able to attach both arms.

I may try to move the other side back as well and see if it centers everything or it won't fit.

I should be fine where it is. Gwdixon wrote that 2 inches shouldn't make much of a difference. That being the case I should be set to go.
I kinda figured it would be ok, just being careful. I'll still try moving the other side back just to see if it centers it.

I can't start till the ground dries out some. I can't believe how much rain were getting.

Thanks for all your help.

 

[jenkinsph]

I agree with Dixon that it doesn't have to be exactly centered. Just trying to help get this aligned correcty. I can fully understand the wet ground as I am a native of NOLA.

 

[jinman]

Adjustable stabilizers are the best bet. The variation in implement pin widths will make you happy you bought the adjustable ones. Just because a Cat 1 3PH is supposed to be a set width, the manufacturers of implements seem to make them with lots of variation. When I grew up, we had stabilizer bars that had such wallowed out holes that there was enough play for some variation, but you can't buy them new that way.

 

[DaveOmak]

Rick.... on the older Fords, the stabilizer bracket bolts to the rear axle... are they bolted the same on both sides... are both bars the same length.... are both rear wheels the same offset... are both lift links the same length... Is the middle buster a cat. 1.... You may have the wrong width, on the middle buster, for a cat. 1... 3 pt hitch set up....
cat.1......bottom pins 3/4" ... top link pin 7/8"........ bottom pin spacing 26"

 

[ovrszd]

Adjustable stabilizers are the best bet. The variation in implement pin widths will make you happy you bought the adjustable ones. Just because a Cat 1 3PH is supposed to be a set width, the manufacturers of implements seem to make them with lots of variation. When I grew up, we had stabilizer bars that had such wallowed out holes that there was enough play for some variation, but you can't buy them new that way.

Jim has given you an explanation of why the stabilizers wouldn't fasten properly. The width of the hitch points on the attachment has moved the ends of the lift arms out or in too far to fasten both stabilizers and end up centered. No big deal. I agree with him about having adjustable stabilizers. As a kid our stabilizers were all worn out like Jim explained so we rarely had a problem!!!

 

[Rick230]

Thanks Jim and Richard.
I just read Dave's post and I'd have to measure a few things.
I know that one of the stabilizer bars is bent a little, but it would not have made it even straightened out.
You lost me on the offset?
One of the lift arm leveling assembly has a crank but I didn't measure it.

I'll have to figure out the rest.
Does anyone know a good site to look at diagrams so I can identify parts?
I'm learning fast!
I'm sure I'll be getting one adjustable stabilizer bars.
I see the small lever on the right. I believe it is the drift or draft adjustment.
Which I think means that if I have the blade down and flip this lever it will maintain the same depth.
I'll be ordering a manual soon and I'm sure that will answer a lot of questions.
Thanks Y'all

 

[Rick230]

Thanks Jim and Richard.
I just read Dave's post and I'd have to measure a few things.
I know that one of the stabilizer bars is bent a little, but it would not have made it even straightened out.
You lost me on the offset?
One of the lift arm leveling assembly has a crank but I didn't measure it.

I'll have to figure out the rest.
Does anyone know a good site to look at diagrams so I can identify parts?
I'm learning fast!
I'm sure I'll be getting one adjustable stabilizer bars.
I see the small lever on the right. I believe it is the drift or draft adjustment.
Which I think means that if I have the blade down and flip this lever it will maintain the same depth.
I'll be ordering a manual soon and I'm sure that will answer a lot of questions.
Thanks Y'all

 

[Rick230]

I have a couple of non related questions:

I noticed the fuel bowl has a very slow drip. I tightened up both lines on the valve but drips still form.

I saw a couple on ebay for $14.24 and $13.20 with free shipping. One of them states the part # is 2N9155B the other states #NAA9155B.

Are these the same part? and is that a good price?

I also noticed that my tractor should be a 1952 according to who I bought it from BUT:

the Serial # is 8N297578 on the right side of the engine

the distributor is on the right side as well.

If its a 1952 then why is the serial # so low?

Unless they moved the distributor to the right side in 1950?

Now I'm wondering what year my tractor really is?

Is there another way of telling the exact year?

 

[6string]

Welcome to the forum, lots of good stuff here. I own a 1949 8N. I would suggest doing a Google search for 8N tractor forums. I join every tractor forum I can find( I also own 2 John Deeres). The antique 8nN sites have tons of information on parts, troubleshooting,manuals,etc. But don't abandon this forum, there is lots of good help here.

 

[duroc]

I'm very new to tractors. I've just used a walk behind tiller and a shovel in the past. I just bought a 1952 Ford 8N (In awesome shape) and am attaching a middle buster. The top link attached fine. Both lift arms attached fine. But not the stabilizer bars. I measured from the center of the attachment point on the middle buster to the center of the stabilizer bracket attachment point. It measured 31 inches on each side with the middle buster centered. The holes in the stabilizer bar measure 31 1/2 inches from center hole to center hole. I had to move the attachment point of the stabilizer bracket one hole toward the front.
Now the bars fit ok but the middle buster head is about 2 inches to the right of center.

Is this ok or does it have to be centered?

I have noticed on diagrams that some people use an adjustable stabilizer bar on one or both sides.

I guess this would work to bring it back to center, other than the cost of the bar or bars.

Any hints or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Rick230

There are two "L" brackets (1 per side) for the stabilizers that mount under the rear axle and utilize the 4 fender mounting bolts for attaching. If I remember correctly, each bracket has several holes for aligning the stabilizers to match up to your lift arms.

Here's a pdf that should help you with the stabilizers... http://www.ntractorclub.com/howtos/pdfs/How-to-Install-Stabilizer-Bars.pdf

You can find a lot of info for your tractor in the N-Series Discussion Forum here... N-Series Discussion Forum

Also, check out Smith's Old Ford Tractors website, he has lots of helpful tips, how to's, parts, helpful websites, etc., etc. Smith's Old Ford Tractors

Hope this helps!

Enjoy your N!

 

[duroc]

I have a couple of non related questions:

I noticed the fuel bowl has a very slow drip. I tightened up both lines on the valve but drips still form.

I also noticed that my tractor should be a 1952 according to who I bought it from BUT:

the Serial # is 8N297578 on the right side of the engine

the distributor is on the right side as well.

If its a 1952 then why is the serial # so low?

Unless they moved the distributor to the right side in 1950?

Now I'm wondering what year my tractor really is?

Is there another way of telling the exact year?

Try tightening the thumb nut under the fuel bowl.

A 1950 tractor has a serial # 8N245637 - 8N343592. Your serial # 8N297578 falls within those numbers, so it's a 1950 not a 1952. In 1950 the distributors were moved to the right side of the engine and carried over through 1952.

 

[Rick230]

Thanks Bill,

very informative.

I didn't know that one of the bars had a bend to it.

I was thinking about straightening it out, good thing I didn't.

Thanks.

 

[duroc]

Thanks Bill,

very informative.

I didn't know that one of the bars had a bend to it.

I was thinking about straightening it out, good thing I didn't.

Thanks.

You are very welcome! Actually, both bars have a bent end - but I think that's what you meant. When I purchased my 8N, I (like most new N owners) went through the same aches and pains of finding the needed info to operate and maintain it. I must say tho, when I stumbled on those websites, I found myself spending all my online-time reading/viewing them. There's a lot of good mechanical information out there for the N's and abundant parts resources.

I'd shy away from buying parts on eBay, Amazon, etc., etc. until you've done some price comparisons because some of their sellers are asking more money than the actual worth. I sometimes dealt with Steiner's New Restoration Parts For Antique Tractors | Buy Vintage Tractor Parts for parts because they are in my area, but there's plenty to choose from.

I know you'll be spending most of your time in the "other" newsgroups now (lol), but stop in here and let us know how you're coming along with your new tractor and projects. There's lots of good folks and info here too.

Oh, and don't forget pictures.... we love pictures!

 

[Rick230]

Thanks,

I have a lot to learn. I've been reading a lot.
I was looking for something on how the lift arms operate.
I know it has an upward force to lift, but it seems that when I lower it, it seems more like gravity.
I did see a video of a guy that jacked his 8n up with some type of jack using the lift arms.
Is there a way to check the downward pressure?

 

[duroc]

Thanks,

I have a lot to learn. I've been reading a lot.
I was looking for something on how the lift arms operate.
I know it has an upward force to lift, but it seems that when I lower it, it seems more like gravity.
I did see a video of a guy that jacked his 8n up with some type of jack using the lift arms.
Is there a way to check the downward pressure?

There is no "down pressure". Like you said, gravity - that's all there is. Adding weight might help in some circumstances, but may also hurt in others.

 

[Rick230]

I've always thought that the plows, disks and etc. were pushed or held to the ground.
I could see where a plow would pull itself down, but not the disks.

Thanks.

 

[BigFarma]

First of all, you've chosen wisely! While I'm 100% biased, 8N's are versatile and amazing little tractors far ahead of their time and still easy to find parts for now.

My first post to this forum, I hate to disagree with everyone.... but I think our friends over at www.MrFordTractor.com said it best:

"Stabilizer bars keep the implement from swinging side to side. In addition to keeping the implement centered. The stabilizer bars make a triangle with each lower lift arm which greatly helps to stiffen the system when pushing in reverse gear. The lift system and lower arms were designed for pulling, not pushing. Stabilizer bars should be used with every implement, except the plow. Make sure the front pivot point for the bars is directly across from the pivot for the lower lift arm or they will bind as the lift goes up and down. Something will bend or break. Some implements such as a bottom plow should be allowed to run free. Most tractors will have short check chains that will keep the lower lift arms from hitting the tires when we are not using Stabilizer Bars." End quote

Disclaimer: I don't have a plow myself but I use a heavy duty cultivator made from a gnarly old spring tooth harrow converted to 3PH attachment that I don't use my stabilizer bars for. The teeth go down about 9-12 inches deep and I've got rocky soil living on a ridge in western Maine.

First time I hooked up my new cultivator/harrow - the stabilizer bars wouldn't fit on at all (the implement's welded 3pt. hitch pins were too short to fit both my lift arm and the stabilizer bar and still be lynch pinned). I phoned my friend whose a local farmer who raised beef cows and he set me straight.

It had never occurred to me in 15 years that stabilizer bars were not a critical park of the system required with every attachment. I do use stabilizer bars diligently on my bush hog, scraper blade, stone boat / carry all, pendulum spreader and boom pole behind my '52 8N but you don't want them for a plow-type implement that is really engaging the ground - plow, middle buster, etc.

That being said, when I was cultivating I was using cheapo sail-strap bungees (my favorite style functionally and extra points for being sail boat related, my other passion) to hold the stabilizer bars to the lift arms and the cord snapped! Once the bar fell I promptly backed right up over it and bend it over like a boomerang! I was about that time that I noticed my front tire had a nail sticking right through the tube. Lucky for me I found a good deal for 1 gal of special SLIME for tubes for ~$12.50, thought the deal was so good I had to buy a 2nd gal of regular tubeless SLIME for my other projects
Hopefully I can find someone with a hydraulic press that will bend my grandfather's stabilizer bar back to it's original shape, if not a new bar can be purchased for less than $15 most places.