Comparison Stoutest rotary cutter?

[mkreitler]

If you want a HEAVY DUTY UNIT that will last to the cows come home there is only one number one and that is a RHINO CHECK OUT MODEL 472 in a 6 ft.cutter CAPACITY 4.5 in and that is on the light side I've taken down 5in some 6in with no problem in the past with one just make sure you have a enough tractor to handle it 75-80 HP works fine. On my second choice would be BUSH HOG MODEL 296 either way you can't go wrong and when the rest are wore out RHINO and BUSH HOG are just getting started. JUST don't make the mistake and go far the cheapest one based on price.

 

[deere5105]

If replacing my JD MX6 today, I would be looking hard at the Bush Hog 296. So far I have not had the issues others have with the JD MX6. I got it when I purchased my JD 5105 and held on to it when trading up to the JD 5303. We have a 15-20 year old Howse 6' unit with shear pin and it has performed flawlessly. No maintenance performed other than the occasional greasing and to my knowledge same blades. Have changed shear pin once. One thing I have noticed is the JD MX6 seems to provide a better "finish" cut in grass compared to a Bush Hog 285 I have run. Seems to cut closer and smoother.

 

[cowski]

brown's 6 ft heavy cutter is rated for 8 inch.

 

[foreman Etexas]

brown's 6 ft heavy cutter is rated for 8 inch.

8 inch,she may buck alittle. May need to replace something more than a shear pin

 

[dbaer78]

8 inch,she may buck alittle. May need to replace something more than a shear pin

Ha! I bet that cutter weighs as much as my tractor. I've watched a 6' Brown cutter work behind a 6115 Deere clearing the powerline on my place and it would flat put the fire out of that thing if the operator crowded it to much.

 

[flusher]

I have a 6-ft Hawkline made in Ohio. Cost about $1100.

HawkLine - Farm and Tractor Implements - Heavy Duty Utility Trailers

 

[dbaer78]

Well I sealed the deal today on a brand new Rhino 172. It will be delivered to my door for $2086. I've looked at all the brands and I like the design of the Rhino the best all in all for the price. I bought it from Blesche Bros. in Odon Indiana and I was very pleased with their professionalism and service and I'm definitely going to head back there this fall when I save up enough for a heavy duty rear blade.

 

[TripleR]

Congratulations on your new cutter.

 

[dbaer78]

Congratulations on your new cutter.

Thanks. I plan using it hard and giving everyone a review. Now I can't wait for the grass and brush to start growing! Never thought I'd ever say that....

 

[TripleR]

Thanks. I plan using it hard and giving everyone a review. Now I can't wait for the grass and brush to start growing! Never thought I'd ever say that....

I know what you mean I was the same way when I bought a new one; got over it in a few months, but I still look forward to it every spring.:laughing:

One thing I did after I bought mine was to put chain guards on in lieu of the rubber ones, I ordered it with front chain guards, but rubber in the back. Mine cuts better with chains front and back and I don't get stuff flying out. I mow along our road and it makes me nervous. I still have rubber ones on our Woods, but I don't go along roadways etc.; still intend to put some on some day.

Enjoy your cutter.:thumbsup:

 

[foreman Etexas]

Congrats on new cutter...

 

[dbaer78]

Thanks foreman. I really like the build quality of Rhino's stuff. Can't wait to see how it holds up. As TripleR suggested I will probably end up with chain guards at least on the front. I just couldn't stomach the extra $250 right now. I think I might try building my own but we'll see.

 

[foreman Etexas]

Thanks foreman. I really like the build quality of Rhino's stuff. Can't wait to see how it holds up. As TripleR suggested I will probably end up with chain guards at least on the front. I just couldn't stomach the extra $250 right now. I think I might try building my own but we'll see.

Yeah I like the chains also but I think you could build something like you said for a lot less than 250. I got the zero turn out and mowed the yard today,I don't think the wife is going to let me bale it this year cause she doesn't like the tall grass. She also doesn't like me to let the cows in to graze,lol.

 

[robbyr]

8 inch,she may buck alittle. May need to replace something more than a shear pin

I'm assuming that would be the Hanes 36-38 or the Fruit of the Loom crack crawlers:laughing:

 

[robbyr]

She also doesn't like me to let the cows in to graze,lol.

Haha been there done that, nothing like a little cow pooky all over the front yard

 

[TripleR]

There is a thread on here somewhere in which a guy fabricated chain guards for his mower. I lack the ability to do so, but it should not be all that hard especially for the front.

 

[dbaer78]

There is a thread on here somewhere in which a guy fabricated chain guards for his mower. I lack the ability to do so, but it should not be all that hard especially for the front.

Thanks for the tip. I found the thread and it looks like a fun project. Of course it'll be in a long line of "fun" projects....

 

[TripleR]

Thanks for the tip. I found the thread and it looks like a fun project. Of course it'll be in a long line of "fun" projects....

No, you won't have to worry about running out of projects that's for sure.

If you haven't done so already check out some of the threads by 4shorts and ovrszd for some nice modification idea, there are some others too, but I forget who.

 

[Chilly807]

There is a thread on here somewhere in which a guy fabricated chain guards for his mower. I lack the ability to do so, but it should not be all that hard especially for the front.

That'd be me.. for one. I ended up using more chain than I thought, and the density (between each vertical strand) isn't as high as I'd like. Use nothing less than 5/16 chain, and I'd recommend 3/8 if you can swing it. The weight of the chain is ALL that's keeping stuff under the mower. To be honest, I don't know how effective it really is. The solid guards are more effective, but don't allow as good a finish on the cut. I've bent my rear guards (solid steel) from backing into stuff, I just pound 'em back out with a hammer later.

You don't need a lot of weld to hold the chain on, just a good tack on each side. I overdid mine, as usual. I'd recommend bolting the steel bars on first, then weld the chain to them to reduce bending and distortion. I had to pound mine out flat after welding.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/203349-land-pride-rotary-cutter-chain.html

If you look at the density of the chain on the front of TripleR's cutter in the pics he posted in that thread, that's what you should have.

Sean