DS3510 4 in 1 controls

[13gef13]

I am seriously considering buying the Ds3510 with a 4 in 1 bucket but would like to know what lever/button they use to control the open/close of the bucket. A photo would be great if possible but anything will do.
Thanks, Geoff

 

[TractorTidy]

There are two ways, first way you will have to add a second hyd. remote to control the "clamshell" on the bucket. It's just like adding hydraulics for a grapple. You would then run the lines from the rear remote under the tractor to the front and the mount a quick disconnect somewhere, either on the loader arm or the crosstube. There you would have your plug-ins for the connectors to the 4 'n 1. The control would be your lever (w/ remote kit) to be added next the the 3pt. lever.

By the time you add your rear remote and then lines and couplers up the the front, you will have @ $8-900 in it plus your bucket.

Second way you could go is w/ an electro-hydr. control which would allow you to control the bucket w/ an electric switch which then actuates the hyd. cylinder on the bucket. Then you wouldn't have to add a rear remote. It would be the less expensive way to go.

What does your dealer recommend?

 

[J_J]

How many valves or spools do you have now and are any of them not used.

You can do the diverter valve thing, or the 3ed function up front located on the lift arms.

The diverter thing will let you feather, and the 3ed function will be on or off.

A remote valve at the back could be used if an unused spool is available.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

A true 3rd function is probably the best setup for a 4n1, but usually about $200 more than a simple diverter valve. A diverter valve is a very simple and clean install. I used this handle for my rear diverter valves, but it can be used on a loader handle also. Someday soon I hope I am going to use this type of control handle for my FEL aux hydraulics.

 

[IslandTractor]

There are two ways, first way you will have to add a second hyd. remote to control the "clamshell" on the bucket. It's just like adding hydraulics for a grapple. You would then run the lines from the rear remote under the tractor to the front and the mount a quick disconnect somewhere, either on the loader arm or the crosstube. There you would have your plug-ins for the connectors to the 4 'n 1. The control would be your lever (w/ remote kit) to be added next the the 3pt. lever.

By the time you add your rear remote and then lines and couplers up the the front, you will have @ $8-900 in it plus your bucket.

Second way you could go is w/ an electro-hydr. control which would allow you to control the bucket w/ an electric switch which then actuates the hyd. cylinder on the bucket. Then you wouldn't have to add a rear remote. It would be the less expensive way to go.

What does your dealer recommend?

While adding an extra remote can be expensive with some tractors, most Kioti dealers seem to charge less than what you estimated, especially if you roll it into the negotiated purchase price. Under $450 or so would be typical. Mine cost $350 but that was five years ago.

The hoses and couplers to run from the rear remote to the 4n1 can cost a few hundred if made up custom by a hydraulic shop or purchased piecemeal from the dealer but viable mail order options can cut that in half.

Remember too that after buying a dedicated diverter or true third function valve you have just a one trick pony. A rear remote, or better, two, has lots of other very practical uses besides just controlling a grapple or 4n1.

Edit typo

 

[kiotiken]

While adding an extra remote can be expensive with some tractors, most Kioti dealers seem to charge less than what you estimated, especially if you roll it into the negotiated purchase price. Under $450 or so would be typical. Mine cost $350 but that was five years ago.

The hoses and couplers to run from the rear remote to the 4n1 can cost a few hundred if made up custom by a hydraulic shop or purchased piecemeal from the dealer but viable mail order options can cut that in half.

Remember too that after buying a dedicated diverter or true third function valve you have just a one trick pony. A rear remote, or better, two, has lots of other very practical uses besides just controlling a grapple or 4n1.

Edit typo

I just added a second remote to my DK45. The kit was $350, but took them 3 hrs to install. After I heard what was involved installing with a cab, I decided to let them do it. Apparently it's not too bad on an open station tractor.

 

[IslandTractor]

I just added a second remote to my DK45. The kit was $350, but took them 3 hrs to install. After I heard what was involved installing with a cab, I decided to let them do it. Apparently it's not too bad on an open station tractor.

I haven't done it as mine came with two but others report it is an easy afternoon shade tree project on an open station tractor.

 

[kiotiken]

I haven't done it as mine came with two but others report it is an easy afternoon shade tree project on an open station tractor.

That was my plan until I was told I'd have to take one of the tires off and it was going to take somebody who knows what they're doing 3 hrs. Those tires are heavy, something like 800# and I really didn't feel like getting into that.

 

[IslandTractor]

That was my plan until I was told I'd have to take one of the tires off and it was going to take somebody who knows what they're doing 3 hrs. Those tires are heavy, something like 800# and I really didn't feel like getting into that.

Yeah, one of the few negatives of loading tires is that it becomes a major safety challenge if you need to remove them.

 

[13gef13]

Gone with the diverter/switch as the dealer reckoned they work well and nearly 4in 1 tractors they sell have this type of setup. Apparently the switch will be on the joystick. They don't sell many with a 4 in 1, if any at all of this model, mostly just with a fel. Have ordered it and will get it in a week or two.
Thanks for the i/p
Geoff

 

[gkm]

I just added a second remote to my DK45. The kit was $350, but took them 3 hrs to install. After I heard what was involved installing with a cab, I decided to let them do it. Apparently it's not too bad on an open station tractor.

How much did they charge for installation? I had two sets installed before I picked up my new tractor. IIRC, the total cost was 629.00.

 

[kiotiken]

How much did they charge for installation? I had two sets installed before I picked up my new tractor. IIRC, the total cost was 629.00.

I was charged 3hrs labour, but I can't remember their shop rate, but they quoted me $600. The total invoice was $1000 but included the filters and oil for the 50hr service a switch that I'm returning (because it was $50 for one of those nice lit light switchs) and 13% tax (welcome to Canada eh).

 

[gkm]

I was charged 3hrs labour, but I can't remember their shop rate, but they quoted me $600. The total invoice was $1000 but included the filters and oil for the 50hr service a switch that I'm returning (because it was $50 for one of those nice lit light switchs) and 13% tax (welcome to Canada eh).

What light switch are you referrring to? The overhead and a switch that's controlled by opening the door?

 

[kiotiken]

No, the switch that they use for the front and back worklights. I'm going to add some LED lights and wanted a consistant switch and liked how those swictchs light up when they're on. I asked my dealer for a price and he said he didn't know, but would order some to have in stock. When they came to do the 50hr service, they left a switch for me. I was a little surprised when the bill came in the mail a few weeks later.

 

[Kioti Tom]

Here are some photos of the installation on my former DS3510. It is a WR Long 3rd function kit. The cast iron fittings were replaced with steel 2 weeks after installation. I had to order them from Surplus Center...
Hope this helps some.
Tom

 

[13gef13]

Here are some photos of the installation on my former DS3510. It is a WR Long 3rd function kit. The cast iron fittings were replaced with steel 2 weeks after installation. I had to order them from Surplus Center...
Hope this helps some.
Tom

That's what I was after. Why did you replace the cast iron fittings?
Thanks Geoff

 

[Kioti Tom]

Even tho I pressure tested them to 3000 PSI, I still felt more comfortable with steel hyd fittings. I had access to a hydraulic test stand. Nelson Long has it attaching to the bracket for the bucket controls and repositioning some lines before running the hoses out to the front. I bought them thru Everything attachments. When I wired it up, I attached the wires so the rocker switch would open the grapple when I pressed fwd and closed when I when aft. I really liked the handle and switch setup..

Tom