I think you probably want a 1" of free play but check your owners manual. I don't know how they know that half of the clutch is gone. As far as how much life you have left it all depends how easy you are on it what you are doing with it. Clutches in tractors last along time. I don't know why they don't know what happened to t but then they say you have been riding it, I am not saying you do not know how to operate a manual trans.
Traction Kioti 2009 CK35 Transmission Problem
- Thread starter wapaper
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ritcheyvs
Veteran Member
Yes. you do need about 1 inch (spec is 0.8-1.2 in) free play in the clutch pedal before encountering ANY resistance from the clutch release bearing. You may recall this was mentioned in an earlier post.
A link to the CK service manual was recently posted (http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...5891-kioti-service-manuals-2.html#post2997747). Recommend you make yourself a copy while it's available. I also recommend you buy the paper service manual (and owners manual if you don't have one) from Kioti. Clutch adjustment is covered in both manuals.
Adjusting the clutch too tight will cause rapid clutch wear, just like riding the clutch. This is seriously bad in a tractor because the tractor must be split to replace the clutch. It's not like a car where all you just drop the tranny (not that that's real easy). So it's likely (IMO) that your problem (including damage to the clutch) was caused by improper clutch adjustment. Maybe a dealer on TBN or recent customer can chime in here but I'm guesing a new clutch costs over $1000, including labor; labor is most of the cost.
Who did your 50 and 100 hour service? The dealer? Clutch pedal free play check/adjustment a MANDATORY item in the 50 hour service and also required at the 100 hr service (see p 1-13 and 1-20 in service manual or your owner's manual). If your dealer adjusted the clutch so tight that it half-way wore out the clutch disk, I'd say you have a bone to pick with that dealer. Assuming the dealer did that 50 hr and/or 100 hr service you need to talk to him (not his mechanic) and also document this issue for future reference. The clutch isn't covered under warranty but if your dealer's mechanic half-destroyed your clutch by mis-adjusting it, you are doing your dealer a favor by telling him. He may even give you some consideration in the future.
If you ever have warranty work that requires splitting the tractor, replacing the clutch (while the tractor is already apart) would be a good investment IMO, even if you have to pay for clutch parts.
Of course, all of the above is based on what you've told us and that was based on inputs from a mechanic of unknown diagnostic skill.
A link to the CK service manual was recently posted (http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...5891-kioti-service-manuals-2.html#post2997747). Recommend you make yourself a copy while it's available. I also recommend you buy the paper service manual (and owners manual if you don't have one) from Kioti. Clutch adjustment is covered in both manuals.
Adjusting the clutch too tight will cause rapid clutch wear, just like riding the clutch. This is seriously bad in a tractor because the tractor must be split to replace the clutch. It's not like a car where all you just drop the tranny (not that that's real easy). So it's likely (IMO) that your problem (including damage to the clutch) was caused by improper clutch adjustment. Maybe a dealer on TBN or recent customer can chime in here but I'm guesing a new clutch costs over $1000, including labor; labor is most of the cost.
Who did your 50 and 100 hour service? The dealer? Clutch pedal free play check/adjustment a MANDATORY item in the 50 hour service and also required at the 100 hr service (see p 1-13 and 1-20 in service manual or your owner's manual). If your dealer adjusted the clutch so tight that it half-way wore out the clutch disk, I'd say you have a bone to pick with that dealer. Assuming the dealer did that 50 hr and/or 100 hr service you need to talk to him (not his mechanic) and also document this issue for future reference. The clutch isn't covered under warranty but if your dealer's mechanic half-destroyed your clutch by mis-adjusting it, you are doing your dealer a favor by telling him. He may even give you some consideration in the future.
If you ever have warranty work that requires splitting the tractor, replacing the clutch (while the tractor is already apart) would be a good investment IMO, even if you have to pay for clutch parts.
Of course, all of the above is based on what you've told us and that was based on inputs from a mechanic of unknown diagnostic skill.
Yeah. I don't think they know what's going on imo. But he said he thought it was 50% gone because of where he had to adjust the nuts on the pedal to make the clutch engage. He also said that he adjusted the pedal as far as it could be adjusted (even though there is at least another 1/2" left to the top of the rod) so if it starts slipping again, the clutch would have to be replaced. Does this sound correct? When I get the tractor back, I will try to get a picture uploaded somehow.
True. I understand.Yes. you do need about 1 inch (spec is 0.8-1.2 in) free play in the clutch pedal before encountering ANY resistance from the clutch release bearing. You may recall this was mentioned in an earlier post. You are right.
A link to the CK service manual was recently posted (http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...5891-kioti-service-manuals-2.html#post2997747). Recommend you make yourself a copy while it's available. I also recommend you buy the paper service manual (and owners manual if you don't have one) from Kioti. Clutch adjustment is covered in both manuals. Ok, thanks!
Adjusting the clutch too tight will cause rapid clutch wear, just like riding the clutch. This is seriously bad in a tractor because the tractor must be split to replace the clutch. It's not like a car where all you just drop the tranny (not that that's real easy). So it's likely (IMO) that your problem (including damage to the clutch) was caused by improper clutch adjustment. Maybe a dealer on TBN or recent customer can chime in here but I'm guesing a new clutch costs over $1000, including labor; labor is most of the cost. They said $1500.
Who did your 50 and 100 hour service? The dealer? Clutch pedal free play check/adjustment a MANDATORY item in the 50 hour service and also required at the 100 hr service (see p 1-13 and 1-20 in service manual or your owner's manual). If your dealer adjusted the clutch so tight that it half-way wore out the clutch disk, I'd say you have a bone to pick with that dealer. Assuming the dealer did that 50 hr and/or 100 hr service you need to talk to him (not his mechanic) and also document this issue for future reference. The clutch isn't covered under warranty but if your dealer's mechanic half-destroyed your clutch by mis-adjusting it, you are doing your dealer a favor by telling him. He may even give you some consideration in the future. The dealer who sold it to me also did the servicing at 50 hours so I feel that you are right. The dealer owes me free labor at least.
If you ever have warranty work that requires splitting the tractor, replacing the clutch (while the tractor is already apart) would be a good investment IMO, even if you have to pay for clutch parts. I agree.
Of course, all of the above is based on what you've told us and that was based on inputs from a mechanic of unknown diagnostic skill.
Ok, thanks. I will at least call a regional manager and make him aware if it. Maybe I'll get some consideration in the future if I just hold my breath long enough!
k0ua
Epic Contributor
Thank you for reporting back.. I don't have anything to add to the other posters comments..
James K0UA
James K0UA
ritcheyvs
Veteran Member
Well, I'm not sure what the dealer owes you. Assuming we understand the situation correctly, your tractor may run fine with the old clutch for many years after the it's adjusted correctly. So, depending on the damage an immediate clutch job might be overkill. On the other hand, a slipping clutch can get pretty hot and damage the pressure plate springs, requiring replacement. It all depends on the extent of the damage. The fact you never smelled that hot brake smell makes me think it might be OK to just adjust for now. Your relationship with the dealer may be more important in the long run but your dealer needs to know if he has a mechanic who is adjusting clutches wrong. That could cost him a lot of $$$.
If you are accustomed to driving cars with hydraulic clutches I can see how an over-tight mechanical clutch might feel normal.
I don't know what the dealer owes me either (when the time comes for a new clutch) but since I only put 40 hours a year on it, if I don't need a new clutch until 10 or more years from now, I'll be very happy and won't ask for a penny! I just meant if I have to replace the clutch after only 240 hours on it, then I was going to expect something. And I think you're right about the clutch. I think it should last for many years despite what has happened since I never smelled anything and now I know what to watch for. And I would BET money that the mechanic is not adjusting these clutch pedals correctly because when I bought this tractor, he was telling me about NOT riding the clutch like some guy had done and that the guy was swearing that he hadn't been riding the clutch. Talk about deja vu! And I tried to tell the dealer about this mechanic but he wouldn't listen so that's his loss I guess. Oh, and I don't know if a '69 Mustang or '70 Beetle or '72 Beetle have hydraulic clutches which were my first 3 manual transmission cars but the tractor clutch pedal felt like those did (and not like my current 90's vehicles) so I thought it was tight when I bought it but the mechanic said everyone who never had a tractor before said that. He also said that a new tractor clutch was supposed to feel that way so I never thought about it again. Thanks again to everyone for all the input. I hope someone can help someone else in the future save some money by remembering this story.
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I agree! I don't understand either. I never smelled/heard/felt a thing. No sign of any slipping at anytime until it just all of a sudden stopped moving. And the strange thing is it would easily go into gear (no grinding) but it just wouldn't move (except at a crawl). I even asked the mechanic to explain HOW the clutch could suddenly go out of adjustment like that but he had no answer. I just hope that is what it really is and it doesn't break down again the next time I use it.
Well, if any of you happen to see this reply, you will not believe what has happened since my last post in Sep. Sometime around the middle of last Oct, I decided to cut my field one last time before winter set in. I had been mowing for about an hour when I sheared a bolt off of my bush hog. As I was coming back down my driveway to get a new bolt, I tried to stop my tractor but it wouldn't stop. I luckily thought to turn the engine off and it stopped about a foot short of ramming my car! So I started it up again and barely got it to back up off the driveway. I was so furious and disgusted with it because I had only put ONE HOUR on it since I had paid almost $300 to have the clutch adjusted. I tried to get it to move forward but it wouldn't move even an inch so I let it just SIT there for over 5 MONTHS! I finally had it towed in to the dealer AGAIN about a month ago. About a week later, the mechanic called and said he couldn't get it to move even with adjusting the clutch so he FINALLY took the tractor apart. He said that he had found out that THE CLUTCH HAD SLOWLY SHREDDED APART! It had NOT burned up at all (which is why there was NO SMELL) so LUCKILY, my warranty covered everything! He said that this has been a COMMON PROBLEM in Kioti tractors in the last few years. So, I've got my tractor back now and it's working great again. But, I just wonder now, HOW LONG will the clutch last this time? :/
Gittyup
Elite Member
- Joined
- Oct 4, 2007
- Messages
- 3,145
- Location
- Mid Atlantic
- Tractor
- Kioti CK25 Shuttle Shift, loaded tires, JD X739
How many hours on your tractor? I have a 2006 CK25 gear. Now at about 550 hours. So far no problems. I'm just hoping I don't start to have any.
dennis52
Gold Member
- Joined
- Jan 27, 2011
- Messages
- 323
- Location
- Queensland Australia
- Tractor
- Kioti DS4510HS , Kubota B7100
Shredded apart????
Lol. I asked the same question. He said the clutch is made up of a layer of fiberglass and instead of wearing away slowly, it literally shredded into shavings that look like shredded cheese. I wish he had taken a picture of it. :/ It's oddly funny how he warned me about this BEFORE I even bought this tractor!
Only 125 hours. THAT'S the sad part of all of this I feel.
Gittyup
Elite Member
- Joined
- Oct 4, 2007
- Messages
- 3,145
- Location
- Mid Atlantic
- Tractor
- Kioti CK25 Shuttle Shift, loaded tires, JD X739
Clearly not the norm. I guess now you just have to get it fixed and move on. Sorry for your troubles.
fkshmidl
New member
I know I may be 5 years to late to this party, but my CK30 manual tranny started acting up a few months ago, and soon after it wouldn't move under its own power when i was cutting the back of the property. i hiked back to the cabin and got my truck with a tow strap, and my father to steer it back. i had my truck in 4WD and it was struggling to pull it. Dad said everything was in neutral. well i was sure my clutch was gone, and i guess at the time it didn't click that my truck should have pulled that weight on level ground without breaking a sweat. i just finally had the time over this past weekend to pull the tractor apart and i noticed once i had it jacked up in neutral i could not get the back wheels to turn at all. the rear brakes were locked up!! Kioti has a wet clutch brake system and uses a brake fork on both sides to pivot a pressure plate up onto detent balls. where the brake fork goes between the brake casing it had corroded so badly that the brake fork was not able to turn and release the brake plate. the unfortunate news is that I went ahead and split the tractor, and while i still have friction material on my clutch everything is blued, and show tremendous signs of stress. my guess on why the tractor will move in low gear is because the transmission produces enough torque to override the brakes, but in high gear it can't get the torque.
I hope that you have since fixed the problem, but i figured I would come back and share my finding with you incase you hadn't yet. I plan to use penetrating lubricant on the brake fork every time i use my tractor from now on ( once i get it all back together)
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