concrete wheel weights

[winston1]

I had my 2002d 8.3-24 tires filled with a weak antifreeze solution. Run over something the other day and punctured the tube. I found it to be quite a job to get the remaining antifreeze out in order to break the tire down and patch the tube. So after finally getting most of it out, tube repaired, back on tractor, I decided to take a new approach.

I want to clarify why weights help me so much. When using farming equipment such as breaking plow, disc, etc. the weight of the implement is useless when in the pulling mode.

I took pictures through the stages which I think pretty much explains how I did it. I used nearly all of 3 sacks of crack resistant mix. That calculates out to nearly 240 pounds for the 3 sacks. My research varied on googling dry concrete weight and of course the aggregate used changes weight. Seems normal concrete drys at appx 145# per cu. ft. My calculations of 21 3/4 od x 4.25" deep came out to .91334 cu ft per weight. My bathroom scale had one weight at 127#, the other at 130#. Heavier than my former antifreeze solution.

The metal on my forms is light aluminum flashing roll. Doubt anyone interested in making any of these but thought it might be interesting for you to see what an old man does to entertain himself.

Those are 5/8" x 6" capscrews which are a good fit in the wheel holes.

 

[clemsonfor]

neat, if i get ambitious one day i may build some!! I think i will go with antifreeze as an easier approach first. Yea i know its not as heavy?

 

[cmore]

Looking good.

 

[284 International]

Those look terrific! Did you put any wire or rebar inside? Did you have to use any release agent on forms to get them to peel cleanly?

I may copy your plans. Great job!

 

[murphy1244]

You think they might crack?

 

[winston1]

Those look terrific! Did you put any wire or rebar inside? Did you have to use any release agent on forms to get them to peel cleanly?

I may copy your plans. Great job!

No reinforcement other than the 6 bolts. No release agents, they came off pretty clean. I used this 4-1/2" Diamond Turbo Cup Wheel to clean up the outside a little bit. Then painted them white.

"You think they might crack?" Really don't know, I guess time will tell. I used the crack resistant mix which has fibers in it. They fit pretty tight in the wheels and with six bolts I don't think there should be any shake, rattling, or rolling going on so I hope they don't crack.

 

[shawnjvl]

How in the world did you get them bolted inside wheels?

 

[winston1]

I tried to be as accurate as possible with my bolt circle and bolt spacing. The first weight bolts slid right through the holes. The second one I had to put a nut on some of the bolts and use a hammer to bend the bolts slightly to make them line up. They are a close fit in the holes. The bolts stick out of the concrete a tad over 2" but only through the wheel the length of a nut. The nuts are easily accessible on the inside of the wheel. I did some mowing yesterday on some steep banks and can definitely tell a difference. So far, I'm as happy as a dead pig in the sunshine.

 

[California]

I would worry about the bolt spacing too if I were to make concrete weights. What about removing a wheel and using it for a guide - with the bolts attached to the wheel - as the concrete is poured?

Also, do these weights rest on the lugnuts to prevent them from loosening?

Winston those look great!

 

[winston1]

I would worry about the bolt spacing too if I were to make concrete weights. What about removing a wheel and using it for a guide - with the bolts attached to the wheel - as the concrete is poured?

Also, do these weights rest on the lug nuts to prevent them from loosening?


The weights do pull up and tighten against the wheel lug bolts. That is how they are secured.

The weights are made to fill all the area of the wheel and the wheels are the same diameter inside and out. If you made them enough smaller diameter to allow for screw heads I suppose you could stick the bolts through the wheels to aid in alignment. I wanted them to fit pretty snugly so there would be less chance of them being able to move. I probably made it sound harder than it was to get the bolts to line up. A 5/8" bolt anchored in concrete will easily bend a little. We are talking thousands, not inches.

I did take care in measuring and fabricating my forms to have the best chance possible for a fit. My form 5/8" holes were drilled on a drill press to assure a 90 degree straight hole.

 

[tmajor]

Your weights look good!

I've thought about making some for my ZTR mower. After looking at your project/results, I might give it a shot.

I'm wondering, how it would work to make a bottom "saucer" to cover the holes in the rim, maybe grease the rims or insert an aluminum form inside the rim and pour them right in the rim? The anchor bolts could be put right in place, through the rims, and held with nuts on both sides. ??

 

[winston1]

Your weights look good!

I've thought about making some for my ZTR mower. After looking at your project/results, I might give it a shot.

I'm wondering, how it would work to make a bottom "saucer" to cover the holes in the rim, maybe grease the rims or insert an aluminum form inside the rim and pour them right in the rim? The anchor bolts could be put right in place, through the rims, and held with nuts on both sides. ??

The wheels have several curves, etc to deal with. I suppose one might take a heavy plastic and cover the wheel, then put bolts through as you suggested and pour away. I don't think all wheels are created equal so I would be sure there are no cavaties that might cause the weight to be captivated by the wheel. Every wheel may require a little different approach. I like your thinking here.

 

[chopped]

Somewhere on here is a thread of someone who did just that ,used the wheel for the cast with plastic to cover it .I couldnt find it for reference ..

 

[rScotty]

Very Nice Work.
rScotty

 

[clemsonfor]

id worry if i made them they would be lop sided and you would feel a "out of round" wobble like a misbalanced tire, or something.

 

[Car Doc]

Awesome job Winston they look great! Very clever adding those 4 pieces of wood in the mold to make clearance in the casting to clear the weld at the rim you thought that one out real well! :thumbsup:

 

[winston1]

Thanks to all of you for your compliments. So far they are working out great. I have left the antifreeze solution in the one tire. Sort of wanting to see how it acts.

 

[California]

Flat ground or sloping? On my little YM186D the full water fill plus 70 lb wheel weights each side still isn't as much ballast as I would like.

I just now came in after a few hours pulling a spike harrow around with it to knock down Jimson Weed (Datura) and blackberry vines that are starting to appear in the orchard. I could have used more ballast for traction, particularly to drag the harrow up the face of the small terraces between rows. Even on a straight clear uphill slope, it will run out of traction in 2nd range/1st gear before the load will pull down the rpms.

In my limited experience - I would ballast the wheels/tires any way possible until you reach a point where performance seems sluggish due to the weight. I did reach that point filling the oversize (12.4 x 24) tires on my YM240 before I had the ROPS, when I wanted that weight to reduce the risk of rollover. After I put on the ROPS I reduced the tire fill to 50% - but I would go back up to maximum to pull a plow etc.

 

[winston1]

"Flat ground or sloping?" Mostly flat, but have tested on sloping. They are definitley a help, I agree with you, it would be hard for me to over weight the wheels on this 2002d.

 

[urbaneagrarian]

Has anyone had any luck adding lead shot and tire slime? I would prefer not to risk getting a puncture and leaking antifreeze all over the place. I'm using lugghandles but wanted to add some inner tire ballast as well. Wanted to start with something simple and reversible.