I like to use a good pair of Irwin Vise Grips for rounded off bolts. I try to avoid welding on or around cast iron and nicely painted metals so I don't burn the paint off. The filing or grinding works good when there is lots of space to get the tools in. I like to grind the flats to fit a open end wrench because I have found adjustable's to have play in the jaw and loosen off, slipping making the bolt head rounded again.
j.i. case 1949 SC
- Thread starter Birchhatchery
- Start date
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I like to use a good pair of Irwin Vise Grips for rounded off bolts. I try to avoid welding on or around cast iron and nicely painted metals so I don't burn the paint off. The filing or grinding works good when there is lots of space to get the tools in. I like to grind the flats to fit a open end wrench because I have found adjustable's to have play in the jaw and loosen off, slipping making the bolt head rounded again.
OP
Birchhatchery
Silver Member
actuly it is the first picture i took a closer look so now that you no what my rear end looks like what is that circle peice underneat the check plug for theirs only one on the right side not one on the left gota be a hydralic pump or sumtin?? and what all can i do with it?
You are correct with the hydraulic. I think it is the hydraulic control unit as far as I know. The check plug for the hydraulic oil is located near the bottom left of the PTO shroud.
OP
Birchhatchery
Silver Member
as far as that i can use 90 weight oil for that also right? can the case pull or 2 row picker and wagon u think?
It would pull a 2 row picker with ease with a 125 bushel wagon behind. It might be a little under powered in wet conditions but in dry conditions it is perfect. I like the pull type pickers because the dust, noise and flying debris is behind you.
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Birchhatchery
Silver Member
id like to be able to run the hydralics to run a 8 foot a disc any ideas how do that?
Soundguy
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I don't worry much about welding near cast or burning paint. it's an old tractor. I've done plenty of welding on stuck fastners to remove them. i had one tractor that had nearly 100 broke botls studs and other fastners and plugs... yep.. the majority of the fasteners required drilling or welding to remove. just an art to learn. as for paint... that's why they sell sand paper and new paint.
adjustable wrench loosening? sounds like one of the cheap angle jay types. get a parallel jaw type like the old 'monkey wrench'
they don't loosen up like an angle jaw.
ps.. I mentioned adj wrench as you may not get a plug squared for a standard size..
just an art to learn. as for paint... that's why they sell sand paper and new paint.
adjustable wrench loosening? sounds like one of the cheap angle jay types. get a parallel jaw type like the old 'monkey wrench'
they don't loosen up like an angle jaw.
ps.. I mentioned adj wrench as you may not get a plug squared for a standard size..
It ain't a cheap adjustable wrench just a old worn out Snap-on wrench. I guess we all have different ways of removing stuck fasteners.Like the Gear vs. Hydro discussions we all have our own preferences.
Soundguy
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- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
cheap or expensive does not matter.. design matters. angle jaw adj wrenches simply do not hold tight.
parallel jaw types where the jaws are at a perp angle to the handle are the onse that hold tight. sadly.. you don't see them anymore.. have to get them from old tool places.
parallel jaw types where the jaws are at a perp angle to the handle are the onse that hold tight. sadly.. you don't see them anymore.. have to get them from old tool places.
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Birchhatchery
Silver Member
mike you no of a good place to get head lights and rear lights for the SC id like to replace the headlamps and everythang
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Birchhatchery
Silver Member
but in my case Sc i get antifreeze that comes out of the overflow and it has bubbles in the radiator is that bad? what do i need to do do i need to start it up and let it run alot longer to see if the bubbles go away?
I would look at Steiner Tractor for the lights. Antifreeze coming out the over flow means you must have too much in the system. The system is non-pressurized. Bubbles in the rad is usually a sign of the water pump going. If you run it for a couple hours under a light load, watch the rad cap and if the antifreeze to starts bubbling over and your temperature gauge is reading zero (the needle doesn't move) it is a sure sine that the pump is gone because it is no longer pumping coolant but pumping air into the system. The temperature gauge will read zero because of it's location after the pump where there is only air getting pushed past it and not coolant. A new water pump will run ya about $250 and the complete light assembly about $80 each. I have looked for a water pump rebuild kit but had no luck finding one for the Sc. Good luck.
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Birchhatchery
Silver Member
so really i just need to keep runing it until it stops coming out of the overflow?
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Birchhatchery
Silver Member
i ran it down the road it spewed out fluid from the overflow like normal i ran it back let it run for awhile got it hot it did not over heat the temp guage stayed were it normally did so i took the rad cap off at low idle their is a few bubbles not much but with full throttle going she bubbles lke crazy any ideas?
With all the bubbles, it sure sounds like a water pump. The engine turning slow-slower pump speed less water movement less air getting sucked into system, faster engine more water flow-more air getting sucked into system. If you check around the pulley on the water pump on the main casting is there any water leaking down around it. To me it sounds like a seal in the pump. Does your tractor have thermostat. They are located in the upper rad hose. It was a option on these tractors. Mine does not have one.
Soundguy
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with the pump shaft seal under watrer level.. i'd sure think it would seep water if it was also sucking air. in fact.. I'd think it would drip and not suck air.. if it ain't leaking water.. .. i'd be surprised if it was sucking air...
I have seen them start to suck air long before leaking water. It will gradually get worse until a leak is noticeable. Where it leaks is up behind the pulley in which extends back to the main casting. It takes a fair amount of water to leak out to get all the way to the back of the pulley to the main casting. It is easiest to check and see if there is water getting on the fan blades from leaking around the pump as it is running as the center fugal force will fling the water outwards usually hitting the fan blade.
Soundguy
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i think a pressureized test on the cooling system would be in order if one suspects a leak too.
OP
Birchhatchery
Silver Member
ya their water a litle water seepege down under the pully so i should replace my water pump alrighty anythang else i should do i do not no of it has a thermostat or not
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Birchhatchery
Silver Member
their no oil in raidiator their was no raidiator fluid in oil last i checked and it does not burn white smoke
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