JD 3038e Homemade Cab

[RoyJackson]

use lexan does not scratch as easy as plexaglas

I'd suggest just using glass on the front window (windshield) for cost and weight savings.

 

[Low Bucket]

Very nice work!:thumbsup:- It looks great so far and I like how you made the roof.

Keep on going!

 

[rgs03833]

Nicely done MR. !!! Good Job!!! <3 it !!!:thumbsup::thumbsup:

 

[JohnDeere4300]

Pics of cab returned from powdercoater.

Nice job on the cab!!!

Have you did anymore work on it ??... I've been planning to build a cab for a couple years now, Just have too many projects going on right now!

Thanks for sharing!!!... Lookin' forward to seeing it finished!
.

 

[800tundra]

Was able to get a free minute and decided to install cab on tractor. Worked away from home most of March and haven't had time to work on cab. Looks like I will be busy at work for a bit but am still hoping to get a few little things done in next few weeks.

 

[duroc]

Looks great! :thumbsup:

 

[JohnDeere4300]

Was able to get a free minute and decided to install cab on tractor. Worked away from home most of March and haven't had time to work on cab. Looks like I will be busy at work for a bit but am still hoping to get a few little things done in next few weeks.

You did a great job on your cab!!!... It looks great on your tractor too!!!

I just noticed the top and I like how you made it!!!... Can't wait to see pictures when you get the glass installed!!!

Do you have any idea how much it all weighs ??

Thanks for sharing!!!

Bill

 

[JDGREEN4ME]

Looks great!

 

[Agent Blue]

Looks more like factory than home built. Couple questions..
What guage metal for the top ? Did you have to reinforce it with strips inside ? Also what did you use to hold the gasket material on the windows ? Did you go with thin metal strips welded to the tubing ? How far does it extend past the structure... or does it depend on which size gasket material you use ? Did the powder coaters do both semi gloss black and green top ? Ballpark figure on cost of powder coating. How well did the hockey pucks work out ? Any noticeable change in vibration ?
Thanks in advance for the info. Alot of hours but very nice improvement.

 

[800tundra]

Sorry been away. Think I used 18 gauge For Roof.(Think)
There is 1" Square tubing down the center as was planning to use 1" styrofoam or equivelent and cover with some type of material. Extends approx 3/4" past fenders. 3/4" by 1/8" thick angle for trimmed for windows as most gaskets require 1/8th. Have no windows but am going to take glass and rubbers out of few of father in laws old junk combine and swather as old ones are safety glass and can be cut. 300 ish on powder coat.(with blasting) I never paint anymore. Been using cab as pics show when I need it and no issues with pucks no noticeable vibration. as all floor is coverd in 1" thick rubber mat also. I am only home 2-3 days a month so unable to get anything done unfortunately.

 

[Agent Blue]

Overall I think a full cab intimidates some. The build itself isn't that difficult with a good bandsaw and wire feed. The plan is the most important issue. This build is typical of the many others out there with a good design and taking the time to make metal openings square for a good door / window fit. Nice job. Sure beats spending 3-4k on a manufactured piece. Most of the materials can be purchased for the shipping cost of a new one. I don't know if the hockey puck idea is that functional. They are hard plastic with little give. I will use some form of rubber belting that can obsorb some vibration and eliminate its transmission to the roof tin. I am a fan of safety glass so I would seriously give another look to using a plastic counterpart. I don't know if it would make a huge difference but adding dynomat to the interior surfaces sounds like a good idea.
I plan on building a cab for my 4110 John Deere. Depending on how it works out there may be another for the New Holland TC55DA.
Again, nice work. Thanks for posting. It may encourage others to take a closer look at new fabrication ideas.

 

[Mike476]

You can get dense foam rubber "street hockey" pucks that should take the load and provide more of the dampening effect you're looking for.

 

[Hiltz]

I realize this is alittle late but maybe it will help the next cab builder. Your tractor does not have to be level nor do you need to find a level area on your tractor to start your cab build. Just make sure you make a mirror image part when starting your build. All left and right cab parts should be mirror images of themselves thus no need for leveling. Heck you could put your tractor on the side of a hill and start your build as long as the left and right parts were identical.................cheers

 

[Agent Blue]

I realize this is alittle late but maybe it will help the next cab builder. Your tractor does not have to be level nor do you need to find a level area on your tractor to start your cab build. Just make sure you make a mirror image part when starting your build. All left and right cab parts should be mirror images of themselves thus no need for leveling. Heck you could put your tractor on the side of a hill and start your build as long as the left and right parts were identical.................cheers

Good point. I would assume if you cut pieces for one side the additional pieces would be the same measurement on the other. The horizontal structure pieces should be squared with the remainder of the structure. In this case assembly on a flat leval surface a level would be an extra measure of safety to control a solid square structure. A metal bandsaw would make the task much easier.

 

[G.P.S.Investments]

looks really good :drool:,also defindely looks better than the "redneck canopy that I saw in vernon B.C.:cool2:

 

[800tundra]

Inner doorlatch




Inside view



Outer door latch

 

[800tundra]

Had couple hours . Mounted door latch from an old combine from father in laws. Also got all rubbers for windows from it. Unfortunately the windows are tempered so unable to cut them to size. I had some plexiglass laying around to try in a small side window. Cracked when cutting with jigsaw. Cut it with die grinder. Very messy. Next time i get home will just bite the bullet and buy all windows. As far as Someone mentioned just make all pieces from one side to other same.i hoped the same also. The front and rear frame were set on on welding table squared and welded. Thats it unfortunately. As door is different shape, size then other side. For the top I squared front to back and then welded pieces in. Almost all brackets had to be made individually. To ensure proper gaps at fenders, floor pans, where loader meets front of cab , the door had to be different then other side to make it easy to enter exit, etc. etc.
Yes metal bandsaw is my next investment. I have been using mitre saw for figuring out degrees handheld bandsaw, small angle finder chopsaw and zipcuts.
Stationary bansaw would be ideal!!
Less dust fumes etc also

 

[DutchHenryBrown]

That is one fine looking Cab unit you do VERY good work.:thumbsup:

 

[eddieirvine]

800 Just an idea for you! I used to cut a fair amount of plexiglass and lexan, they sell a tool for cutting plexiglass, basically a curved tool with a sharp edge on it! what you do is score a line down where you want it to be, I used to score a good line say 4 or 5 times making sure it is a nice even cut, then if you have a bench or a place to hold or clamp the piece you cut, you basically snap it off by applying down pressure to the end hanging off the bench! very easy to do, if you have ever cut reg glass or watched someone do so, it is the same procedure for plexiglass! works very well, you will be a bit un easy the first time doing it, but the main thing is getting a good scoreing edge with the plexiglass cutter, it will break right on the scored line! it leaves a pretty nice edge when done, a bit of hand sanding on the edge and you are good to go! Eddie

Very nice job on the cab, and I know how you feel about getting tired of it!!! I found the best thing to do then is walk away for a few days, then get back into it! It helps me allot! Also always keep in mind this winter how nice it is going to be, A small cloeman lanter works very well to, A freind of mine uses one all the time in the winter, no fumes at all with a coleman lantern for a bit of heat! I would love to make one for mine also, but need some time, I have so many projects right not I am tripping over them in my wood shop, but it would be nice to have that in the winter time for sure!

 

[RoyJackson]

800 Just an idea for you! I used to cut a fair amount of plexiglass and lexan, they sell a tool for cutting plexiglass, basically a curved tool with a sharp edge on it! what you do is score a line down where you want it to be, I used to score a good line say 4 or 5 times making sure it is a nice even cut, then if you have a bench or a place to hold or clamp the piece you cut, you basically snap it off by applying down pressure to the end hanging off the bench! very easy to do, if you have ever cut reg glass or watched someone do so, it is the same procedure for plexiglass! works very well, you will be a bit un easy the first time doing it, but the main thing is getting a good scoreing edge with the plexiglass cutter, it will break right on the scored line! it leaves a pretty nice edge when done, a bit of hand sanding on the edge and you are good to go! Eddie

I've done the same thing as described using a scriber. You do want to clamp the full length of the plexiglass to be snapped and scribe the ends as deep as you can.
I've done this up the 3/16ths thick plexiglass.

You can cut irregular sections with a jigsaw and the right blade. I suggest you use masking tape along the path of the cut to prevent damage from the jigsaw...that is, mark your cut line on the masking tape (sharpy works OK).