2130 losing hydraulic fluid

[Old Hillbilly]

First time to post here in the Deere section because my Deere's rarely break! I do post some but mostly lurk over on the Yanmar forum. I found out 8 months ago that I have an incurable and non-treatable muscle disease that will soon put me in a wheel chair. I am quickly losing my ability to walk so diagnosing and fixing problems on my tractors is becoming quite a chore but I still do my own work with the help of my wife. She does the work and I tell her what I think needs done.

We use our old 2130 for bush hogging. Last time she was using it the lift quit working so I figured it was low on hydraulic oil. Yesteray I was looking at it and found where it is leaking as evidenced by the two oily spots on the ground. It is leaking in what (at least to me) is a very odd place. The two draft (lift) arms of the three point attach to the lower part of the tractor casing by sliding the swivel balls over a pin on each side of the differential casing. The arms are held on the pins by a collar and spring clip. The oil is dripping out around the pins...which I assume is actually one long bar that runs internally from side to side. I have never encountered anything like this before and was wondering what the concensus of those here might be as to what the problem is....and what it will take to fix it?

I was thinking I might be able to put some type of packing around the shaft but as of now I am not able to get down to look and see. Then I started wondering is there was actually something leaking internally and letting fluid drip into the bottom of the housing into what is a dry area around the pins or shaft and then seeping out around the pins and onto the ground

Any help or suggestions here would be greatly appreciated. Sorry for the lengthy post but I wanted to do all I could to explain the problem. Thanks again.

 

[buickanddeere]

Normal with age. Just replace the seals. I broke a seal in frosty weather while snowblowing. When it's all drained to change the seals. Has the oil filter and screen ever been replaced and cleaned? As for the engine, keep fresh anti-freeze with active corrosion inhibitor. Old anti-freeze will allow the wet sleeves to cavitate holes and leak.
5 R63937 WASHER AR X X X I.D.=26,5MM
L41154 WASHER AR X X X I.D.=29,1MM
6 L26941 BUSHING 2 X X X I.D.=25,5MM
L41788 BUSHING 2 X X X I.D.=28,1MM
7 L26943 PIN 2 X X X
8 L26936 CLAMP 2 X X X
(A) CATEGORY I
CATEGORIE I
KATEGORIE I
CATEGORIA I
CATEGORIA I
KATEGORI I

 

[Old Hillbilly]

Thanks buickanddeere. I hate to sound so dumb (which I am pretty much when it comes to this tractor) but are you speaking of seals around the rod that forms the pins? Also, all the part numbers you list, are those just for this pin problem?

As far as filter and screen....not changed as long I as I have had it. I have put maybe 25 hours on it. Supposedly all the fluids and filters were replaced by the guy I got it from and they did all look new. I have not maintained the tractor like I should have so I guess it is turning around and biting me on the butt!

 

[Zebrafive]

Looking at JDparts.com there were three differnt shafts used. All had diffferent seals. You will need the serial number of your tractor to get the correct parts.

You can do the repair without draining the hydraulic oil, but you will be losing it as you do the repair. Plan on catching it.
Remove the retaining pin and lower 3pt arms on both sides.
Make sure the pin hole in the rod the 3pt arm was on does not have burrs that will damage the seals.
You will replace the seals in one side at a time
Push the rod into the bushing of the tractor transmission case. ONLY FAR ENOUGH to remove the old seals.
Remove old seals
Replace with new seals (heat in warmto hot 160* water until soft, bend in "U" shape, install, reshape it round.
Slide shaft back out thru new seals.
Repeat opposite side.
Replace lower 3pt arms.
Top off hydraulic fluid.

This might be a job for the dealer if your wife does not want to attempt

 

[Old Hillbilly]

THANK YOU Zebrafive! That is what I was hoping to hear! I have a buddy that is a great mechanic and I think I can talk him into doing it if we can't handle it but I figure we can.

I checked out the John Deere parts site and registered. I can find the draft links and parts that fit on the shaft but am having trouble locating the section with the seals. I hate to be a bother but can you post a specific link to what you found? Maybe then I can quit asking so many questions!

I sure appreciate your help and the help from buickanddeere also!

 

[Tx Jim]

Easy way to find correct page is enter a part number that buickanddeere listed such as L41788 into the parts search under part index in the parts catalog.

 

[Zebrafive]

Here is how I searched JDparts.com:
Model search: 2130 then click: 4143 -1830,2030,2130 Tractors 12May11
I like using the Sectional Index, so click: Sectional Index
From there click: 70 Hydraulic System
From there click: 74 Parts For Load Control.

That will bring you to the load control shaft, shows the internal parts, the bushings that are pressed into the transmission/axle case (don't replace these) and the shaft seals/o-rings that are in the bushings.

 

[Old Hillbilly]

Thanks to all of you for the great help. I was able to find the proper page and see that Deere refers to it as a "sealing washer" apparently. I called my local JD dealer and told him what I needed....he happens to have them in stock. He calls them a washer also...said they were made of neoprene. Now I just need to tear into it and see if the bushings are worn also and if not, hopefully the sealing washers will do the trick.

Thanks again!

 

[Old Hillbilly]

SUCCESS! After a couple of trips to my JD dealer I found that my 2130 has the older smaller 25mm shaft and requires a smaller seal. He had one in stock and ordered another overnight. We installed them this morning....or I should say my wife installed them and everything is back together. I put 5 gallons of fluid in to see if any leaks out before I fill it up.

Now....a real dumb question. How on earth do I check the transmission/hydraulic oil level to see if it is full? I have looked high and low for a dip stick with no luck. Are there plugs I take out and fill until it runs out the holes? This tractor takes 38 quarts when it is dry but I don't know if it was completely dry when we replaced the seals. Any help in figuring out when it is full will be appreciated.

 

[Tx Jim]

Here you go parts key #3.

 

[Zebrafive]

I am not sure if you will have the small dipstick #3 or the long one #12, but it's near the left rear corner of the right hand foot board.

 

[buickanddeere]

SUCCESS! After a couple of trips to my JD dealer I found that my 2130 has the older smaller 25mm shaft and requires a smaller seal. He had one in stock and ordered another overnight. We installed them this morning....or I should say my wife installed them and everything is back together. I put 5 gallons of fluid in to see if any leaks out before I fill it up.

Now....a real dumb question. How on earth do I check the transmission/hydraulic oil level to see if it is full? I have looked high and low for a dip stick with no luck. Are there plugs I take out and fill until it runs out the holes? This tractor takes 38 quarts when it is dry but I don't know if it was completely dry when we replaced the seals. Any help in figuring out when it is full will be appreciated.

Call 1-800-522-7448 for the operator's manual. It's a treasure trove of info.

 

[Old Hillbilly]

I am not sure if you will have the small dipstick #3 or the long one #12, but it's near the left rear corner of the right hand foot board.

There is a small knurled cap there on the right foot board so I guess that is it. I was looking for something with a ring in it so I could pull it out with my finger. I think this one has been painted over and is stuck as I have yet to be able to pull it up or unscrew it. I'll keep trying. Thanks Zebrafive! I sure appreciate it along with the help TX Jim gave.

 

[Tx Jim]

Old Hillbilly
It's hard to believe but it sounds as if you found the hyd dipstick without calling the well published JD 800 phone number so the operator could tell you where to look for it. GOOD JOB

 

[Zebrafive]

There is a small knurled cap there on the right foot board so I guess that is it. I was looking for something with a ring in it so I could pull it out with my finger. I think this one has been painted over and is stuck as I have yet to be able to pull it up or unscrew it. I'll keep trying. Thanks Zebrafive! I sure appreciate it along with the help TX Jim gave.

It does screw out. When you check the fluid level, just set back on, don't screw it in.

 

[Old Hillbilly]

Thanks again. Found it...checked it...and all is well! I sure appreciate it.

 

[Tx Jim]

IIRC check hyd oil level with engine running.

 

[Zebrafive]

IIRC check hyd oil level with engine running.

You are correct. Engine should be running at a slow idle.

 

[berwin121]

First time to post here in the Deere section because my Deere's rarely break! I do post some but mostly lurk over on the Yanmar forum. I found out 8 months ago that I have an incurable and non-treatable muscle disease that will soon put me in a wheel chair. I am quickly losing my ability to walk so diagnosing and fixing problems on my tractors is becoming quite a chore but I still do my own work with the help of my wife. She does the work and I tell her what I think needs done.

We use our old 2130 for bush hogging. Last time she was using it the lift quit working so I figured it was low on hydraulic oil. Yesteray I was looking at it and found where it is leaking as evidenced by the two oily spots on the ground. It is leaking in what (at least to me) is a very odd place. The two draft (lift) arms of the three point attach to the lower part of the tractor casing by sliding the swivel balls over a pin on each side of the differential casing. The arms are held on the pins by a collar and spring clip. The oil is dripping out around the pins...which I assume is actually one long bar that runs internally from side to side. I have never encountered anything like this before and was wondering what the concensus of those here might be as to what the problem is....and what it will take to fix it?

I was thinking I might be able to put some type of packing around the shaft but as of now I am not able to get down to look and see. Then I started wondering is there was actually something leaking internally and letting fluid drip into the bottom of the housing into what is a dry area around the pins or shaft and then seeping out around the pins and onto the ground

Any help or suggestions here would be greatly appreciated. Sorry for the lengthy post but I wanted to do all I could to explain the problem. Thanks again.

I just recently did my arms and there is a nut underneath the transmission it tightens to the rod that runs out both sides of transmission to prevent from moving. loosen it.take dial pin out that holds arm on take arm off doesn't matter which side u do first tap it just far enough in to remove gasket that is going to be just inside the outer case of transmission.NOTE do not hit to far or u will have to take rockshaft housing off to reset the linkage.i use a ice pick to get mine out and install new gasket with phillip screwdriver or something small that wont tear gasket trying to get it in.it is a very tight fit almost felt like I had the wrong part.u can see the exploded view of the arm at jdparts.com hope these help u and ur wife have a easier fix.the gaskets I believe are less than $20 for both sides

 

[Tx Jim]

IIRC the "negative stop screw"(parts key #23) isn't designed to be adjusted tight against L/D linkage but is intended to stop L/D linkage from moving too far in the wrong direction. As long as L/D lever under the seat is placed in "D" the L/D shaft can normally be fully removed without any ill consequences.