B6000 Kubota front PTO

[boxer246]

I am trying to install an old Brantly FEL on my Kubota B6000, it was originally installed on a Iseki or something. I think the internal Hyd pump on the tractor is not up to the task for the FEL, so I wanted to try and install the external Hyd pump that was originally used for this loader. It was mounted on the front somehow, and driven directly off the front end of the crank.

Ideally I'd like to mount it the same way on the B6000, somehow adapting a shaft mounted to the front crank pulley, possibly through a Lovejoy coupler, connecting to the Hyd pump. My front crank pulley has three threaded holes in it....I was thinking of turning about a 3 1/2" steel disc on the lathe, bolting it to the crank pulley, then pressing in a 3/4" steel shaft slight interference fit with a woodruff key, (shaft would be like 7 or 8 inches long) then to the Lovejoy/ hyd pump.
Whatdya think?
Somehow, I need to get a 3/4" shaft attached to the front crank pulley, through the recess under the radiator, and sticking out front so I can attach the pump.

 

[J_J]

Found this, not sure if it will fit your engine.

http://www.rrproducts.com/p-735847-kubota-stub-shaft.aspx

http://www.kellerkubota.com/catalog...tub+shaft&partno=&type=&model=0&class=0&bin=1

 

[Leejohn]

Kubota has a splined one that would fit your tractor. I also think it well fit on the B9200 like JJ has. His might be on his as std. The bad thing about kubota's is that it has a odd size spline shaft. Here is the part #66704-88530 if you want to see a picture and price ( if it's not NLA ) go here Kubota Parts for Tractors and Equipment
As far as getting the shaft through the recess under the radiator. Just pull the radiator, not hard to do and give you more room to work.

 

[284 International]

I have done exactly what you described on a Yanmar. The crankshaft pulley has three holes on the face. The pulley also has a slight bevel on its circumference. Turning a small lip into a disc perfectly centers the plate on the crankshaft.

Welding a keyed shaft is straightforward, and allows easy coupling for the love joys. Mine actually uses a chain coupling, but the principle is exactly the same.

For what it is worth, my B6000 came with a factory loader that runs from a pump driven by a v-belt off the crankshaft pulley, just like the generator. That style may be a better match depending on how much room you have to mount the pump. The Brantly loader I have seen for an Iseki had quite a massive pump, which may make packaging difficult on the tiny B6000.

 

[boxer246]

Thanks for the info guys. Unfortunately I cant see any of the parts listed, and cant seem to pull up the parts diagrams....not sure why. I do have an old printed parts manual I'll dig it up today and look through to see about a stub shaft. I think ultimately I'll probably build a shaft with a disc to attach to the pulley. The pulley doesn't really have a lip, unfortunately, it actually seems to be somewhat counterweighted from the factory and the face is pretty much smooth. My pump has to run off the front, because of the rotation. Well I guess I could turn it backwards and run it off a v-belt from the crank pulley, mounting it on the left side of the tractor. The crossbrace for the loader, which goes from the uprights down to the front frame of the tractor already has a spot cutout with holes for mounting the pump directly on the front of the tractor. There should be lots of room.

I got my work cut out for me getting this thing setup....gotta make all new mounts for the FEL frame and then I have to cut and re-weld sections of the FEL itself.....looks like it got bent and tweaked somewhere in its prior life. The loader bucket doesn't line up right. So first I'm going to get the frame and uprights perfectly straight, then just work forward from there.

 

[Lodur]

I have a B6100 equipped with a Brantly FEL. It is an SL 500 and it runs on the ordinary hyd. pump. As for the bucket its slightly off. I guess due to a dent in one of the sub frame arms. But I really like my Brantly..

 

[J_J]

Here is an excerpt from another B6000 owner.

The tractor pump puts out about 1200 PSI, I am running around 3000 on my hoe, tractor pump is about 2.5 GPM, I am running 4.5gpm on hoe.

This pump from Baileys should run your FEL. I have one similar driven by the fan belt for my steering and FEL. Works just fine.

http://baileynet.com/links/GC_Series_edit.pdf

About $120

 

[boxer246]

Well i now have the frame mounted to the tractor, and I have cut and welded the loader frame several places to straighten it all back out again. Gonna reinforce it with some gussets and that should be all good.

I have the pump that came with the Brantly...so now I'm working on the PTO shaft to come directly off of the crank pulley. I've also got the original two spool valve for this loader its an AICO I think...looks pretty ancient. The valves were stuck but I freed them up we'll see if it works.

Is there another flex coupler alternative to a lovejoy coupler that might be a little shorter? It will need to join the 3/4" PTO shaft from the crank to the hydraulic pump. Because of the front frame member of the tractor theres no room for the lovejoy. I suppose I can cut out a section of the frame to make room if I need to.

I'll try and post some pictures soon.

 

[Leejohn]

If you can, you might look and see if you can make shaft to go out the front.
Then mount the pump to the weight bracket in front.

 

[charlz]

My B7100 has the B-219 loader with front pto pump. I believe this loader fit 5100/6100/7100 tractors. If you look on the Kubotabooks site you can find the manual which has some crappy photos as well as a parts breakdown that may give you some ideas. If you need more photos of an actual installation PM me.

 

[SSdoxie]

I've seen a few different coupling styles used.
2 identical sprockets set face to face on the shafts with double roller chain wrapped around them.
2 PTO yokes with a u-joint
If both shafts are identical in diameter and have same spline or key way, then use a larger collar cut for the key or spline then slipped over both shafts and locked with set screws.

I think the Lovejoy has the best in durabilty because they hard rubber inset helps to absrob the firing impluses from the the engine. If you need to cut out the front loader frame for the pump then build a steel box to go over it to protect the pump.

 

[boxer246]

Ok been trying to get this thing a little farther along in the last few days, got on the lathe and have been working to get this hub finished. So far the hub is finished, now I just have to insert the shaft into it and weld it in place hopefully with little to no run-out. Here's a couple photos, more to come as I get it farther along.

So you can see the front frame member is going to be an interference when I get the Lovejoy mounted....so I will probably have to cut the frame somewhat.

 

[Lodur]

Some pics of my B6100 with a Brantly SL 500 FEL.
The hydraul FEL runs of the "ordinary" hyd pump.
Switching between 3pt and FEL is done by the diverter vent. That is my headache today since there is a leak inside the vent. This makes the 3PT to slowly sink during ordinary operation. I guess I have to disassemble the vent and swap O-rings...

 

[boxer246]

I finally got this loader project all done, got some new tubing with fittings made, and received all new hyd hoses so now its all together.
Fired it up today, fully expecting all four hyd cylinders to leak like a sieve, since they've been sitting for like 20 years outside. But, lo and behold, they did not leak, but I could initially only get the bucket to curl, couldn't raise the loader up at all. So as I mentioned originally, I am using this old AICO two spool control valve, and I think its trashed.
It will now raise up and curl, but it does so slowly, and jerkily, and there is a bunch of "sponginess" or "give" to both the curl and raise/lower movements. In other words, when I raise up the bucket, and put my weight on it and bounce, I see the cylinder rods move in and out a couple inches......almost like there is air in the cylinders. I imagine this all relates back to the old junk AICO valve. SO, I am going to order a new two spool valve, this one looks good to me: https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-8283&catname=hydraulic
Hopefully that will get this thing working like it should. Otherwise it turned out pretty good I think, should be a useful little beast now! Heres a few photos:

 

[J_J]

Why not bleed the air out of the cyl by operating the valves fully about 5 times.

If the pump does not have any suction leaks, the air should be gone and things should operate.

Install a hyd gage in the IN port of the FEL valve and check and set the FEL valve relief.

If you are going to order another valve, this valve will serve you better, and it has float and regen.

Surplus Center - 2 SPOOL COMPACT 10 GPM JOYSTICK CONTROL VALVE

Sure it is more money, but will do more, and it is joystick controlled.

 

[Leejohn]

Good job!!! Looks good!!! I would not buy the new valve just yet, get all the air out and maybe it well work good.

 

[boxer246]

JJ that valve looks great, but what the heck is float and regen? Is that really something I need for an extra $140? Price is now becoming an issue, you know how everything begins to add up on one of these projects.

Well I have cycled both the curl and lift twenty or thirty times, but its still the same...It lifts jerky and inconsistent and sometimes refuses to raise all the way up. I might take the valve off and take it apart to clean/rebuild it if possible. I assume those spools have O-rings or something?

Another thing.....the screw cap to the fluid reservoir.....after filling the "towers" which double as fluid reservoirs, and cylcling this thing through a bunch of times, I noticed that a bit of air pressure would build up.....i.e. if I removed the cap while running the tractor, it would release a puff of air. Is this right? Shouldn't the dead air space on top of the fluid, in the reservoir be pretty much ambient pressure?

I checked the suction line.....all fittings seem tight...is there a way to tell if air is being let in?

 

[J_J]

If you can look in the reservoir, you may see tiny bubbles and that will expand the the fluid volume.

The cap should have a vent or a vent for the reservoir somewhere.

Do the hyd gage thing first and see if the valves will let the cyl build up pressure.

Float is something you will use to back drag, and float the bucket which will follow the conture of the ground. Regen will let you have a fast dump on the curl down.

Just about every loader valves have these functions.

Is it worth it? That is your choice, but I think you would like both functions.

 

[boxer246]

Ah ha. Well those actually do sound like useful functions. I'll have to see about getting a gauge set up....I have a couple gauges around, what pressure range gauge would I need?

There does not appear to be any vents anywhere on either reserviour, I noticed the cap on the left side reserviour is not original...maybe the original one had a vent. The caps for the fill ports are simply pipe plug fittings.

 

[J_J]

A 3000 psi hyd gage set, something like this.