MF 35 Sticks In Gear

[Moxxie]

I have a 1958 MF 35 with the 3 cylinder Perkins engine and the 3/2 transmission. My problem is with the tractor "sticking" in gear, especially when you're shifting between first and reverse while doing loader work. Even with the clutch fully depressed, you can smack and smack the shift lever and if it does pop out out of reverse for example, it will invariably miss neutral and drop into first gear, whereupon the tractor will immediately start to move forward even though as I said, the clutch is fully depressed. I've read several posts on this site that briefly mentioned this problem as "well known" and hinted at "the trick to solve this", but no one seems to mention what exactly this "trick" is. Anyone out there have any ideas?

 

[bucktaker]

Are you stuck in forward or reverse?

Remove the oil fill caps and use a pry bar to "fiddle" with the sliding gears.
Sorry I dont know the proper terminology but i have done that with my mf35 many times to get it unstuck. The way to prevent it is to be at complete stop before shifting gears. Its frustrating but keep at it and they will move and free you back up

 

[Moxxie]

Hi bucktaker and thanks for the reply. It can stick in either forward or reverse and sorry, but coming to a complete stop seems to cement them in place. I've found that if you have room to keep moving, you can sometimes jerk the thing out of gear. Hope this clarifies the problem somewhat.

 

[Dieseltech]

If straightline 2-3 shift is OK but straightline 1st-reverse is hard trouble is with detent plunger/spring assembly that is held down by steering box assembly. If detent plunger is rusty it will not slide up and down in trans rail bore as it should causing hard rail movement, not a common problem. Most have trouble when shifting too fast on 1st-2nd shift, lever goes to 2-3 rail but 1st-reverse overshoots neutral detent and goes into reverse, is corrected with HI-LO placed in start position to relieve driveline tension, then using a bar through trans oil fill to place1st-reverse back to neutral so crossover is restored. Sounds like you may need to remove steering box that holds down all 3 rail detents and springs to free up or replace 1st-reverse detent assy.

 

[Moxxie]

Thanks Dieseltech! I will look into that and let you know what I find.
Most appreciative of the idea.

 

[JoeBuyer]

Does that tractor have the hi/lo engine brake? If so, is this in both positions of the hi/lo?

 

[Moxxie]

Hi JoeBuyer: I don't know what you mean by the term "engine brake". It does have a 3 speed main tranny and a hi/lo (2 speed) aux transmission. In answer to your question (on that basis) I don't think it's ever been in the "Low" position when this happens because 1 high is usually what I use for loader work. I'll have to try the other position next time I'm out and let you know. Much thanks!

 

[MasseyWV]

If straightline 2-3 shift is OK but straightline 1st-reverse is hard trouble is with detent plunger/spring assembly that is held down by steering box assembly. If detent plunger is rusty it will not slide up and down in trans rail bore as it should causing hard rail movement, not a common problem. Most have trouble when shifting too fast on 1st-2nd shift, lever goes to 2-3 rail but 1st-reverse overshoots neutral detent and goes into reverse, is corrected with HI-LO placed in start position to relieve driveline tension, then using a bar through trans oil fill to place1st-reverse back to neutral so crossover is restored. Sounds like you may need to remove steering box that holds down all 3 rail detents and springs to free up or replace 1st-reverse detent assy.

You may find the following images helpful while using the instructions provided above. They are from a Massey 135 tractor, but the transmission is nearly identical to your Massey 35 tractor.

 

[Dieseltech]

Thanks for posting pictures, Massey WV. Need to make a small correction, left side shift rail is 2nd-3rd and center is Reverse-1st. When shift knob moves left the fork ball moves right and vise-versa. Hi-LO is correct as it is straightline shift with no lever crossover. I wonder if his trouble is with rusty/sticking rail detent plungers under tension springs causing hard rail movement.

 

[shona13]

G.Day Moxxy
As dieseltech suggests it sounds like the detent plunger is tight in the hole or the spring is cactus which when fixed will reduce the tendency for the selector rail to overrun but not necessarily eliminate the posssibility of the gearbox finding two gears at the same time .
I do remember once ,long time ago this was on a new 135 and took a bit of time to find it was the interlock pin that was to short, that is the pin at the rear of the gearbox it fits in between the two selector rails and is there to eliminate the possibility of selecting two gears at once,in this case the pin was from memory about 1/16>1/8 th inch to short replaced the pin and no more gear problems.
incidentally this was repaired under warranty .
There tends to be a lot of discussion on this problem and i feel the permanent answer is to either change the pin or have it welded and reshape it to give mimimum clearance I would also whilst the tractor is in bits check the selector detent springs and plungers.
P.S.
MasseyWV .
Excellent pictures but the arrows are all wrong, Think where the gearstick would be?.:thumbsup:
Happy days
Hutch.

 

[shona13]

Hi Again Moxxy.
I should have read your problem a bit more thoroughly.
I would say there is a problem with the clutch,possibly the flywheel spigot bearing ,I have had situations where the spigot bearing was dry and HANGING onto the clutch transmission plate just enough to put a little bit of pressure on the transmission and causing what you describe, especially when you come to a complete stop and the clutch is still hanging on you may have to split the tractor to do a proper fix ,suggest a NEW CLUTCH ASSEMBLY, Including release and spigot/flywheel bearings,a good idea to pop the inside seal out of the flywheel bearing and fill with grease then refit the shield this can be done if you are carefull also you can buy a clutch release bearing that is designed to run constantly that is if you neglect the clutch freeplay at any time.
Got to go we are at the beginning of a severe winter storm and the lightning may FRY my Puter .
Regards .
Hutch.

 

[shona13]

G.Day Massey WV.
Sorry but as I said think about the GEARLEVERS,High/Low range the GEAR LEVER GOES TO THE REAR OF THE TRACTOR TO SELECT HIGH RANGE Which means the selector will travel FORWARD.
first /reverse gear on the gearstick is to the drivers left and either forward or back which means the gearstick will contact the selector in the CENTRE.
happy days.
Hutch.
P.S.
Still fixing them for a living.

 

[MasseyWV]

Massey WV. Need to make a small correction, left side shift rail is 2nd-3rd and center is Reverse-1st. When shift knob moves left the fork ball moves right and vise-versa.

MasseyWV .
Excellent pictures but the arrows are all wrong, Think where the gearstick would be?.:thumbsup:

Oops, you guys are right. The shift forks move in the opposite direction of the shift lever and the gear shift lever crosses. I was still half asleep and hadn't had my coffee yet, plus my wife is in the hospital so my mind is elsewhere right now. I fixed it and it should be right now. :confused2:

 

[banjodunn]

G'day I think Hutch has hit the nail on the head it is either clutch adjustment or bad clutch/spigot as the OP said it will lurch fwd if it pops into 1st. I would start by making sure adj is right and if so then he will have to dig a bit deeper.


Jon

 

[Moxxie]

Thanks guys for all your help. I'm going to be printing this off to take with me to a local mechanic today who originally looked at the problem. Hopefully between the 2 ideas here, we can figure out the exact problem. Cheers!:thumbsup:
P.S. Clutch adjustment has already been tried to no effect.

 

[shona13]

Hi Moxxy.
I would double check the pto clutch clearance before splitting the tractor standard setting is 90 thou but if like you are having trouble you can adjust down to 70 thou.
Regards
Hutch.

 

[Moxxie]

Ahoy shona13, MasseyWV and banjodunn: Time flies when you're having fun! Finally got the MF 35 torn in half and took the clutch assembly off to find that once upon a time, somebody packed the clutch release bearing with white grease! The white grease of course, now resembled white clay and was so, so stiff and hard as to be more like thread lock than grease! Don't know who did it or why as it was well before my time. Too bad too, as the clutch was in perfect shape. Just had to replace the bearing and put it all back together again and she's running good as new!
Just wanted to let you all know how things turned out and thank you all again for your help and ideas! Cheers!!