5105 Won't Crank

redlevel · May 3, 2012

I mowed about three hours late yesterday. Pulled it under the shelter and shut it off. Went to crank it late today. Starter turns over fine, but tractor will not start. I am not familiar at all with the JDs. Sounds like fuel isn't getting to the cylinders. Plenty of fuel in the tank. Is there a switch or relay or connection I need to check? I didn't have time to look much this afternoon.

Help, please.

clintwalker3 · May 3, 2012

Same Problem. Battery great. Cranks. Drained a tiny amount of water from separator. Thinking the same thing as redlevel but can't find any reason it won't start.

JD5210 · May 4, 2012

Are you blowing any fuses? And does the fuse blow as soon as you turn the key?

If yes, to both questions, I believe the problem is the temperature sensor. On the thermostat housing there is a temperature sensor that is connected to a two wire harness that goes to the injection pump; this is the "cold start advance" portion of the system so it starts easier when cold by advancing the timing.

If you disconnect the sensor and it works fine ohm test the sensor, probably shorted.

The sensor on the thermostat housing controls the advance on the injection pump. When it fails it shorts out and blows the fuse. Try unplugging it, replace fuse and see if it starts and runs. The part # is RE503242, (see picture) if you are quick changing it, you don't have to drain the coolant, just make sure it's not hot at the time. You will want a pan under the tractor to catch the coolant, so as not too have to clean it up.

You may need to re-prime the fuel system, if it still does not start.

To comply with the exhaust emissions regulation, the timing of injection pump
should be around 6 to 9 degrees before TDC. This timing values do not allow proper start-up operations when engine is cold. To ease engine start-up, a cold advance system gives to the injection pump a temporary over-timing.

URL to JD parts
jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servlet/com.deere.u90490.partscatalog.view.servlets.HomePageServlet_Alt

Tx Jim · May 4, 2012

I agree with JD5210. Those model tractors have long history of that sensor shorting out.

clintwalker3 · May 4, 2012

Thanks JD5210 and Tx Jim. This is my weekend project. Will let you know what I find.

clintwalker3 · May 4, 2012

Tx Jim: Good luck next week with the incorporation vote for Coyote Flats. http://http://www.cleburnetimesreview.com/coyoteflats/x1687700462/Welcome-to-Coyote-Flats-Texas

Tx Jim · May 4, 2012

Clint
Thanks.
I don't read the newspaper and am too cripple to go to meetings so I was unaware of any election.
Jim

redlevel · May 4, 2012

Thanks for the replies. The temp sensor is what the technician at the dealer suggested over the phone. I unplugged the sensor, and still wouldn't start. I called a retired JD mechanic who is a friend. He came out and tested all the switches and relays. He discovered that even with the temp sensor unplugged, it was blowing the fuse as soon as the ignition was turned on. He believes that a solenoid switch inside the fuel pump is shorted out. He wouldn't tackle pulling the pump off because of the need for some specialized tools he doesn't have. Looks like it will be down for a few days until I can somehow get it loaded and hauled to the dealer 70 miles away.

Dang the technology. Makes me want to go back to an old 70s 175 MF. I have had trouble with other tractors with myriad switches, solenoids, etc that just were not on the old stuff. Aggravating.

RollingsFarms · May 4, 2012

I hear ya on not being a fan of fancy stuff on tractors. I'm looking high and low and everywhere in between for a bush hogging/ backup tractor and I told my dealer one of the requirements was it was to be between mid 60's to late 80's.

redlevel · May 20, 2012

redlevel said:
Dang the technology. Makes me want to go back to an old 70s 175 MF. I have had trouble with other tractors with myriad switches, solenoids, etc that just were not on the old stuff. Aggravating.

After $1350 that I could have put to good use somewhere else, the tractor is running again. 481 hours total on the meter. Very discouraging. The injector pump had to be replaced. Rebuilt JD unit with one-year warranty. Probably, there was just a bad switch inside the pump, but the shop manager said they were not allowed to go inside the pumps. Sounds fishy, but there it is.

Makes me want to go back to some 60s technology. I could replace an entire engine for that on an old Ford or MF from the 60s/70s.

I'm a very unhappy camper. I went to a low hour, major brand unit to avoid such crap as this.

I sold two S&W revolvers to cover the cost. That hurts.

AKfish · May 21, 2012

redlevel said:
After $1350 that I could have put to good use somewhere else, the tractor is running again. 481 hours total on the meter. Very discouraging. The injector pump had to be replaced. Rebuilt JD unit with one-year warranty. Probably, there was just a bad switch inside the pump, but the shop manager said they were not allowed to go inside the pumps. Sounds fishy, but there it is.

Makes me want to go back to some 60s technology. I could replace an entire engine for that on an old Ford or MF from the 60s/70s.

I'm a very unhappy camper. I went to a low hour, major brand unit to avoid such crap as this. I sold two S&W revolvers to cover the cost. That hurts.

That's not a good place to be...

Nonetheless, it's an easier pill to swallow if you can do some of the homework on your own and recognize where/what the mechanic is talking about.

That's where the Technical Repair Manual on CD or book comes in. A good, long-term investment! :thumbsup:

If it were me - I'd be looking at the part's breakdown for the injector pump. I agree; the idea that there's an electronic "switch" internal to the pump - doesn't ring very well with me, either. Especially, with that particular model of JD tractor. JD doesn't make too many "simpler" built tractor's than the 5105!

That's exactly how it's sold - solid, simple - economy model.

AKfish

troutfisher · May 27, 2012

my 5105 done the same thing yesterday but when i unpluged the heat sensor

at the thermostat it started.can you run the tractor ok till cold weather

without harming anything?also if you use a block heater in the winter,would you

need it then?

Thanks for the info.saved me time and money!!

JD5210 · May 27, 2012

I would replace it, the sensor is $31.24. Attached URL is how I found the price, if you do not already have the URL.

This is from the tech. manual "When coolant temperature is below 122 F, the solenoid valve is activated and opens the cold advance circuit" for STANADYNE fuel pump.

To me anything that makes it easier for the engine to start, helps protect the engine.

https://jdparts.deere.com/servlet/com.deere.u90.jdparts.view.servlets.partinfocontroller.PartDetails

troutfisher · May 27, 2012

thanks JD5210 for the reply.better safe than sorry.i sorta needed to use it

tomorrow but i can use my other tractor.i doubt the dealer will be open on

Memorial Day.when you said "below 122 F" that made a big difference i thought

it would be much cooler than that.

Ed Hahnenberg · Dec 20, 2013

JD5210....I have a block he

r LV150155 for my 2004 5105 John Deere tractor. Where do you install it...I was told on the left side? Below is a picture of the tractor with Erskine snowblower attached. Ed

JD5210 · Dec 20, 2013

Ed, I have attached a picture (from CTM125 manual) of where it goes and a picture of the plug. It is located on left top of the back of the engine. My required a 5/8 allen wrench to get it out, there is not a lot of room back there between the back of the engine and the firewall. Do not know if it helped, but I put penetrating oil on it for a few days prior to getting it out. It came out very easy.

Do you have the instructions the center picture on the back shows where it goes. If you do not have them let me and I will scan them in and e-mail them to you, if you will send me a private message as the scan maybe to big to post.

Do not try installing without the instructions. On the element twist it to the right til it stops, then twist it to left til it stops, then center it between the two stop points.

On the allen wrench, I found a 5/8s at the auto part store, but it was to go on a socket wrench, there was not enough to get it in. Hate to share this, but I had to put a small pipe wrench on the allen socket to get it out.