Ford 2000 power steering overflow

[SmellsLikeaGoat]

It wasn't easy, but after dropping the gen out against the FEL I was able to get to the bolts: taking out one and loosening another allowed me to pivot the gen up far enough to clear the ps res. After that - all went smooth.

Now I get to find out how long before the hyd fluid starts gurgling out the steering column again. Hoping to get an hour. Fixing that seal is next.

 

[whodat526]

It wasn't easy, but after dropping the gen out against the FEL I was able to get to the bolts: taking out one and loosening another allowed me to pivot the gen up far enough to clear the ps res. After that - all went smooth.

Now I get to find out how long before the hyd fluid starts gurgling out the steering column again. Hoping to get an hour. Fixing that seal is next.

if you haven't fixed the seal it will be right to leaking just as soon has you fill the system agian

 

[Ultradog MN]

if you haven't fixed the seal it will be right to leaking just as soon has you fill the system agian

Yes. I would have fixed the seal and let the filter go.

 

[whodat526]

Yes. I would have fixed the seal and let the filter go.

yea all the ones i have worked on a filter has never fixed the blowed seal i fix around 1 a month with this problem

 

[SmellsLikeaGoat]

Ok, :ashamed:- you're right. It didn't fix anything, but I haven't changed the filters since I bought it, so it wasn't a waste of time and who doesn't like to spend a little quality time with their tractor. This weekend I'll park her under a big tree and start taking parts off.

 

[Soundguy]

we're just making sure you know that the filter issue will have not much to do with the leak..e tc...

 

[SmellsLikeaGoat]

It took me a while to get to it, but I've got the steering apart enough to see the seal and the steering shaft. Starting at the bottom of the shaft above the lock nut: there is a 3/4" area that is severely pitted. I'm thinking the is the area that the seal touches. The next 1 1/4" is a narrower diameter and has minor pitting. I'm thinking this doesn't matter much as it's above the seal.

I was advised to get a speedi-sleeve and that seems to be a good idea, but won't that change the OD of the shaft? I'm trying to find seal specs (mostly I want to match the ID with the OD of speedi-sleeve). Should I just get the sleeve and figure the original part (a new one) will fit?

btw - I got lucky - everything came apart (cowling, steering wheel, everything else) in about 20 minutes.

 

[Soundguy]

most of the times you use an oem seal with a repair sleeve. the OD of the repaired area should only ne a few tho bigger.. the seal has a lil play in the rubber and retention ring.. I used oe seals in my timeing cover on my farmall C when i was sleeving the crankshaft pulley. no issues getting hte sleeve intot he new seal.

 

[SmellsLikeaGoat]

The repairs went well last night despite the 102 degree heat, it was nice working under a big oak tree. I ran the tractor for quite a while and not a drip.

One thing (there is always one thing): the wheels don't seem to turn all the way to the right any more. They go full left, but stop short (4" of the right piston rod is still showing) to the right. Any ideas?

Anyone who reads this - do not be afraid to take this on. All in all it was a very simple repair. I am no mechanic and, really, it was a piece of cake. Just remember: only dismantle down to the three bolts, not the four bolts. I used a 99087 Speedi-sleeve that touched all the way around, but fit loose (glad I had the loctite).

 

[Soundguy]

pull cyls loose and steer over with front jacked. do rods extend / retract fully?

 

[Ultradog MN]

I should have followed this thread a little more. Might, coulda, shoulda convinced you to go a litle farther into it since you already had the cowel, etc off.
There is another seal - part #13 - BELOW the hyd actuator block that fails too. Fills the lower end of the column with ps fluid when it fails. I always replace the seals in those columns as a pair. I also never open a column without removing the hydraulic block and cleaning it. They collect lots of gunk, rust, etc over the years and will contribute to steering problems like you mention.
If you haven't replaced the cowel yet I suggest you go one level lower and do it all - not just half ways.
If you are not comfortable with it email me your phone# and I would gladly talk you through the whole process. I've been into those columns numerous times.

This darned site wont let me post a gif file. Grrr!
See the exploded view of that column - including part #13 here:
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h56/Ultradog/3000 and 3400/steeringcolumn.jpg

 

[jcw]

I put a new seal kit in my ford 2000 tractor power sterring pump and ithink when I reassembled the pump I may have turn the figure 8 pieces in pump on wrong end of shalfs. do you have a picture of which way they go? I do not have any pressure.

 

[SmellsLikeaGoat]

jcw - you went further than me. I just changed the shaft seals last year with the help of TBN friends. All is still well. Good luck.

 

[30coupe]

I used a 99087 Speedi-sleeve that touched all the way around, but fit loose (glad I had the loctite).

Was this an SKF 99087 Speedi-sleeve? I have to do the same repair to my 2000, so I want to make sure I get the right one.

Thanks in advance.

Russ

 

[SmellsLikeaGoat]

Hi Russ
Yes, SKF - I don't remember which loctite, but it was a bit thin for as much wear as the steering column had. Buy a gel one if they have it. Also, make sure to measure carefully for the placement of the sleeve so that it matches the seal. It sits higher up the column than you might think (hence the thicker loctite - the sleeve wanted to slide down the column). My repair has held for a year now. Good Luck

 

[30coupe]

Thanks! I'm thinking of using JB Weld instead of loctite to better fill any pits I may find. I found this instructional PDF on the ntractor forum. He also stressed the careful measurement. I haven't started to take anything apart yet. I still need to use the tractor, so I want to wait until I have all the parts on hand. Did you change the lower seal as well? I wasn't planning on it if I don't have to. My manual also recommends a new bushing at the top of the column. I'm not sure why that would need to be replaced. Thoughts on that?

Thanks!

Russ

 

[Soundguy]

don't even do it if you are not going to service all the seals.... I'd i'd go with loctite sleeve retainer.. not jbweld...

 

[SmellsLikeaGoat]

While I didn't do all the seals, the repair was definitely worth doing, i.e., my tractor now works! I would defer to Soundguys expertise over mine. It was really easy to get to the seals I worked on (three bolts), the next level down scared me. Someday I might regret it, but not today.

As for the top bushing, my tractor hasn't been inside in at least a decade (or maybe ever) and I wanted to keep the weather out, so that was important to me. I also changed the rubber boot.