First Tractor

[josephny]

Spring is here, 0% financing, and my dreams of getting my first tractor are back (and strong).

I'd appreciate recommendations as to what would best suit my needs.

I have over 100 acres of mostly forest/light woods. I like making trails to explore the woods.

About 2/3 of the way back, there's a wet area (several feet of peet bog) that I've been manually laying slab wood across to make a path to get to the back third of the property.

I'm looking at the B3200HSD with FEL and backhoe (with thumb). I think teeth on the FEL would be helpful too, but I didn't see that as an option on Kubota's build your tractor site.

I don't understand the question of number of valves (1, 2, or 3), and I see conflicting info about whether R1 or R4 tires would be best. There will be some work in fields.

I built the following -- perhaps someone could look at it and tell me what's right and wrong about it? Is the B3200 appropriate for in-the-woods work? Trail building work (pushing out of the way and smoothing)?

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh173/joseph-nyc/b3200.jpg

Thank you,

Joseph

 

[TripleR]

Spring is here, 0% financing, and my dreams of getting my first tractor are back (and strong).

I'd appreciate recommendations as to what would best suit my needs.

I have over 100 acres of mostly forest/light woods. I like making trails to explore the woods.

About 2/3 of the way back, there's a wet area (several feet of peet bog) that I've been manually laying slab wood across to make a path to get to the back third of the property.

I'm looking at the B3200HSD with FEL and backhoe (with thumb). I think teeth on the FEL would be helpful too, but I didn't see that as an option on Kubota's build your tractor site.

I don't understand the question of number of valves (1, 2, or 3), and I see conflicting info about whether R1 or R4 tires would be best. There will be some work in fields.

I built the following -- perhaps someone could look at it and tell me what's right and wrong about it? Is the B3200 appropriate for in-the-woods work? Trail building work (pushing out of the way and smoothing)?

http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh173/joseph-nyc/b3200.jpg

Thank you,

Joseph

What type and how much? What is the terrain?

 

[flusher]

For work in the woods, you generally want a tractor with a lot of ground clearance and narrow track width to work between the trees, shrubs, etc. However, if the terrain is hilly, you want a tractor with wide track width and low to the ground for stability and safety. Also be careful of low hanging branches when working in the woods. You may want to consider a cab for your tractor for safety.

That Kubota you're eyeballing may be OK for your jobs, but you need to get seat time driving your tractor before tackling any steep slopes.

Good luck and be careful out there.

 

[dougtrr2]

Have fun with what ever tractor you buy. I have a small forested acreage with a watershed running through the middle. You may need to rethink you woodslabs across the bog. Over time they may rot and give way at the least opportune time. I found out quickly with my little BX24 that four wheel drive or not when you get in mud four wheels can start spinning real easy and then you are in trouble. I have gotten "trapped" down in my wood when I tried to bring up just one more load of firewood after it started sprinkling. My trails were too slippery for any traction. Can you build a dirt path around or through your swamp? Again have fun.

I just had a state forester evaluate my woodlands. It was very educational, gave me a plan and some advice and there was no charge. There are even programs to pay you to manage your woodlands in Iowa. Could be worth a phone call.

Take Care,
Doug in SW IA

 

[josephny]

What type and how much? What is the terrain?

Sorry, but what type and how much of what?

If land: I have 120 acres broken down as follows (very approximate):
10 acres fields
12 acres overgrown with rhodendendrum on several feet of super wet peat (not underwater, but feet will sink and the whole created will fill with water)
98 acres light woods (pine, hemlock, birch, beech, some cherry & oak).

Several hills, but mostly flat.

Thanks!

 

[josephny]

For work in the woods, you generally want a tractor with a lot of ground clearance and narrow track width to work between the trees, shrubs, etc. However, if the terrain is hilly, you want a tractor with wide track width and low to the ground for stability and safety. Also be careful of low hanging branches when working in the woods. You may want to consider a cab for your tractor for safety.

That Kubota you're eyeballing may be OK for your jobs, but you need to get seat time driving your tractor before tackling any steep slopes.

Good luck and be careful out there.

Thanks very much for the safety details -- I am completely new to tractors.

My neighbor has one and we've gone on my property with it. He's got that sense (that I suppose you all do) of how much of a hill or incline the machine will take before flipping. I surely don't (which leads to much worry).

Is there a better model for woods work (high ground clearance and narrow track width)?

Thanks!

 

[josephny]

Have fun with what ever tractor you buy. I have a small forested acreage with a watershed running through the middle. You may need to rethink you woodslabs across the bog. Over time they may rot and give way at the least opportune time. I found out quickly with my little BX24 that four wheel drive or not when you get in mud four wheels can start spinning real easy and then you are in trouble. I have gotten "trapped" down in my wood when I tried to bring up just one more load of firewood after it started sprinkling. My trails were too slippery for any traction. Can you build a dirt path around or through your swamp? Again have fun.

I just had a state forester evaluate my woodlands. It was very educational, gave me a plan and some advice and there was no charge. There are even programs to pay you to manage your woodlands in Iowa. Could be worth a phone call.

Take Care,
Doug in SW IA

That is so interesting!

I spent a couple of year researching the best way to get a path through the wet area (without spending a million dollars, of course). It seems, from what I read, that as long as the boards are submerged, there'll be no rot (no air to facilitate the decay). Some are submerged, and some are not.

If I had a tractor, I could have a couple truckloads of gravel dropped off and slowly bring them back to lay on top of the boards. And, I could easily lay new boards on top. That, and making new trails, and the trailer/hay rides for the kids, etc., are all part of my tractor dreams.

But, I keep in the back of my mind the idea that I'd be better off with a track-based machine (bobcat? mini-excavator?), but only for the traction. Everything else makes a tractor better, from what I can figure out.

Does it make sense to have a winsch mounted on the tractor to pull out of a no-traction area? I understand the backhoe arm is a big help for that also.

Thanks!

 

[tractchores]

I do a lot of work in the woods with mine (b2920). For woods you want something maneuverable and probably no cab or canopy because they quickly get destroyed by low hanging branches. I would also recommend the foldable ROPS. It sounds like you're on the right track with what you're looking at. If I wasn't worried about finished lawn I'd go with the AG tires (get them filled). If I did have lawn I'd go with filled turfs, I've found them to have surprising traction for woods work. Either way get the tires filled for stability on the hills. You can get the toothbar after market pretty cheaply. Other things I'd consider, but some are very expensive: Wood Chipper (my most used implement), Backhoe (if you need to dig drainage etc), a grapple (super useful for rocks, logs, brush). You can buy most implements used and save a lot of money.

 

[josephny]

I do a lot of work in the woods with mine (b2920). For woods you want something maneuverable and probably no cab or canopy because they quickly get destroyed by low hanging branches. I would also recommend the foldable ROPS. It sounds like you're on the right track with what you're looking at. If I wasn't worried about finished lawn I'd go with the AG tires (get them filled). If I did have lawn I'd go with filled turfs, I've found them to have surprising traction for woods work. Either way get the tires filled for stability on the hills. You can get the toothbar after market pretty cheaply. Other things I'd consider, but some are very expensive: Wood Chipper (my most used implement), Backhoe (if you need to dig drainage etc), a grapple (super useful for rocks, logs, brush). You can buy most implements used and save a lot of money.

Is the B3200 manuverable enough for woods with trees pretty close to each other?

I have some lawn, but I won't be on it much and I'm much more interested in traction. That means getting the AG tires, right? Filled with what?

Wood chipper is interesting. I assume one just feeds it limb and out comes chips. That would be good to fill trail depressions, or to put on the cordoroy road.

Is a grapple the same thing as the backhoe thumb? Definitely need to grab things and move them.

Thanks!

 

[TripleR]

Sorry, but what type and how much of what?

If land: I have 120 acres broken down as follows (very approximate):
10 acres fields
12 acres overgrown with rhodendendrum on several feet of super wet peat (not underwater, but feet will sink and the whole created will fill with water)
98 acres light woods (pine, hemlock, birch, beech, some cherry & oak).

Several hills, but mostly flat.

Thanks!

Type of field work ie ground engagement like plowing, discing, but it doesn't appear you have a lot to do, so transmission geared vs HST isn't much of a consideration.

I have driven a lot of tractors from row cropping to working in the woods and there is no ideal tractor, but a lot will do a fine job.

I have looked at the B Series and while I like them, always found them either too big or too small. My initial impression is that I would want a more powerful, heavier tractor such as in the L/GL Series.

I won't own another tractor without position control 3PH and dragging or hauling logs, at least for me I like a larger, heavier piece of equipment. I would go with Ag tires or some use Industrial tires with chains when needed.

I am sure some other members with more experience can help you out. I am not saying the B3200 won't work for you, it just wouldn't be my choice.

 

[Verticaltrx]

The B3200 is a great little tractor, even better when equipped with a backhoe.

Below are a couple of my threads that show some work I've done with mine:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/197254-road-building-compact-utility-tractor.html


http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/215799-biggest-projects-youve-completed-your.html


With that said, I also have access to much larger tractors. If were to only have one tractor I might look at an L3200/3800 or a small Grand L (L3240/3540) for heavier work.

 

[CAgnoli]

As others have mentioned, adding a tooth bar can just be a dealer added option. If it was me, and there was even a small chance I could get stuck, I'd consider adding a winch large enough to get the tractor out of any trouble you get it in, but if memory serves me, you'd have to get a HD alternator and maybe a deep cycle battery for the B3200 in order to pull that off.

How thick are these slabs of wood? A B3200 with loaded tires, fel, and bh will be surprisingly heavy, and likely cause wood slabs to give up.

I've had my tractor stuck before, and I can tell you it's a pretty crappy feeling when you are off the beaten trail and may need to put someone else's equipment at risk to rescue you're stuff. The mention of blazing a trail around the bog is probably the best advice your going to get unless your independently wealthy and don't mind watching your gravel disappear.

 

[josephny]

Type of field work ie ground engagement like plowing, discing, but it doesn't appear you have a lot to do, so transmission geared vs HST isn't much of a consideration.

I have driven a lot of tractors from row cropping to working in the woods and there is no ideal tractor, but a lot will do a fine job.

I have looked at the B Series and while I like them, always found them either too big or too small. My initial impression is that I would want a more powerful, heavier tractor such as in the L/GL Series.

I won't own another tractor without position control 3PH and dragging or hauling logs, at least for me I like a larger, heavier piece of equipment. I would go with Ag tires or some use Industrial tires with chains when needed.

I am sure some other members with more experience can help you out. I am not saying the B3200 won't work for you, it just wouldn't be my choice.

Ah, I get it.

Our farming consists of a 20x50 plot, which my wife handles. She's been bugging me for another plot for corn, and we would love to plant some fruit trees and grape vines and stuff.

But I suspect mostly it's woods work, maybe some drainage trenches for water diversion.

If you've usually found the B series either too small or too large, and your impression is that I might want something bigger, than likely I shouldn't even think about something smaller, right?

My concern about bigger (besides the cost), is the manuverability in the woods.

Also, I see there's ongoing debate over the exact value of HST (or HST+) but from the little I've seen, it make using the tractor easier and I'll take anything that does that.

Thanks!

 

[josephny]

The B3200 is a great little tractor, even better when equipped with a backhoe.

Below are a couple of my threads that show some work I've done with mine:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/197254-road-building-compact-utility-tractor.html


http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/215799-biggest-projects-youve-completed-your.html


With that said, I also have access to much larger tractors. If were to only have one tractor I might look at an L3200/3800 or a small Grand L (L3240/3540) for heavier work.

I am so blown away!

Both threads have fantastic pictures and stories.

So many people here have made such nice paths.

I would love to try my hand at that -- nicer (and additional) paths are one of my main goals. We have tremendously rocky ground, so I suspect they won't be as nice, but the idea of making them mostly flat and level would be a huge improvement.

 

[josephny]

As others have mentioned, adding a tooth bar can just be a dealer added option. If it was me, and there was even a small chance I could get stuck, I'd consider adding a winch large enough to get the tractor out of any trouble you get it in, but if memory serves me, you'd have to get a HD alternator and maybe a deep cycle battery for the B3200 in order to pull that off.

How thick are these slabs of wood? A B3200 with loaded tires, fel, and bh will be surprisingly heavy, and likely cause wood slabs to give up.

I've had my tractor stuck before, and I can tell you it's a pretty crappy feeling when you are off the beaten trail and may need to put someone else's equipment at risk to rescue you're stuff. The mention of blazing a trail around the bog is probably the best advice your going to get unless your independently wealthy and don't mind watching your gravel disappear.

Winsch makes sense to me, but between the winsch, the HD alternator and the deep cycle battery, sounds like we're talking big bucks -- probably about as much as it would cost to get me unstuck just once, I supposed.

The slabs a a few inches thick, but 9-12" wide (by 5-6' long by my cut). Yea, the first time over them will be a very tense trip.

The wet area spans the entire width of the property -- no way around, only though.

My understanding is that the slabs will prevent the gravel from disappearing.

 

[TripleR]

Ah, I get it.

Our farming consists of a 20x50 plot, which my wife handles. She's been bugging me for another plot for corn, and we would love to plant some fruit trees and grape vines and stuff.

But I suspect mostly it's woods work, maybe some drainage trenches for water diversion.

If you've usually found the B series either too small or too large, and your impression is that I might want something bigger, than likely I shouldn't even think about something smaller, right?

My concern about bigger (besides the cost), is the manuverability in the woods.

Also, I see there's ongoing debate over the exact value of HST (or HST+) but from the little I've seen, it make using the tractor easier and I'll take anything that does that.

Thanks!

It often gets down to personal preferences, past experience, time etc. I personally would not go smaller, but tractchores has and is very happy with his; came close to buying a B2920 once myself.

We have tractors from 23 to 85 HP. For years, I used a 32 HP Ford NAA in our woods and liked it. I then put a 72 HP Massey Ferguson 375 with FEL in there with 4WD and loved it. The amount of work by dragging much larger logs, pushing brush etc., was amazing.

I happened to be bush hogging on one of our farms yesterday with our M8540 when I came to a patch I had cut last year with our L5030. A large Autumn Olive was in my way. I dropped my bucket, put it in 4WD and uprooted it pushing it into a brush pile. This would have required a lot of digging with a smaller tractor or a chain saw.

I am not saying you need a big tractor to do what you plan, but sometimes extra weight and power even the difference say between a B3200 and L3540 or so on is going to come in handy.

I don't do much in the woods anymore as I am too old, so the guys who are still doing it can give you better advice than I.

 

[TripleR]

Re swampy area, I live in what is referred to as Swamp East Missouri as until the "Little River Drainage Project", we were mostly swamp and we discovered an old "corduroy road" on our property years ago.

Corduroy road - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

[tractchores]

Is the B3200 manuverable enough for woods with trees pretty close to each other?

I have some lawn, but I won't be on it much and I'm much more interested in traction. That means getting the AG tires, right? Filled with what?

Wood chipper is interesting. I assume one just feeds it limb and out comes chips. That would be good to fill trail depressions, or to put on the cordoroy road.

Is a grapple the same thing as the backhoe thumb? Definitely need to grab things and move them.

Thanks!

You'll have to test drive it to confirm if its maneuverable enough, but my guess is probably. My B2920 is slightly smaller and is maneuverable enough to get through my woods. I do take off my Backhoe most of the time in the woods because it adds considerable length for turn arounds.

The chipper for me is the most useful implement. I've got a wallenstein bx42, that tractor would probably use the same. Search for it on Youtube to see videos. I find the chipper is good for clean-up, clearing and I've used the chips on some of my trails in the woods to provide a firm base or fill small holes. They eventually rot away, but its a nice way to make a temporary trail for access.

A grapple is different than a BH thumb. The BH thumb is nice as well. A grapple is on the front like a front end loader, but can grab things. They make combo buckets for the front end loader that are buckets and a grapple. Here's a thread with lots of grapple pictures: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2821856#post2821856

 

[josephny]

You'll have to test drive it to confirm if its maneuverable enough, but my guess is probably. My B2920 is slightly smaller and is maneuverable enough to get through my woods. I do take off my Backhoe most of the time in the woods because it adds considerable length for turn arounds.

The chipper for me is the most useful implement. I've got a wallenstein bx42, that tractor would probably use the same. Search for it on Youtube to see videos. I find the chipper is good for clean-up, clearing and I've used the chips on some of my trails in the woods to provide a firm base or fill small holes. They eventually rot away, but its a nice way to make a temporary trail for access.

A grapple is different than a BH thumb. The BH thumb is nice as well. A grapple is on the front like a front end loader, but can grab things. They make combo buckets for the front end loader that are buckets and a grapple. Here's a thread with lots of grapple pictures: Grappling fun - A Picture Thread.... - Page 3 - TractorByNet.com

This must be old hat to everyone this board except me, but I suspect you could all relate: My reaction is "WOW! That's exactly what I need!"

But, I think I'd like to compromise and get a FEL-Grapple combo. Any recommendations?

And the BX42 chipper does indeed look great. not so much for the clean up and I've got plenty of woods to put stuff, but to generate the chips for various uses.

I understand about the BH adding length and taking away from manuverability, but I thought that the usefulness in the woods, and the help to get out of stuck spots, would offset the downside of the added length.

 

[josephny]

Re swampy area, I live in what is referred to as Swamp East Missouri as until the "Little River Drainage Project", we were mostly swamp and we discovered an old "corduroy road" on our property years ago.

Corduroy road - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

That's one of the sites I found when researching these roads. Nice explanation of their history and how they work.

Was your discovered road underground? Wet? What condition?