Rear tire leaking rimguard

[p0peye]

I have a leak coming from the inside bead around the rim. The rears are loaded with Rim guard and leaking . Is there a easy fix or do I have to take the tire to the dealer. I have r4s on my JD2520 .

 

[PILOON]

I'd say no easy DIY fix.
Rimguard will need to be pumped out, rims wire brushed and a rim sealant applied, tires reseated and rimguard re-installed.

If you have a major truck tire dealer nearby they might be the most cost effective source for that sort of work as they would have necessary equipment for that task.

 

[AKfish]

PILOON may be correct... but, before I'd resign myself to draining the tire, etc, etc.

I'd locate the leaking area - jack the tractor up and rotate the wheel so that the leaking area is above the fluid level - and then pump the tire up with air to 30-40psi. Let the tire sit overnight (or a couple of days). The next day or so, drop the air pressure down to the highest psi recommended for the tire - probably around 16psi - I'd guess; and see if it's still leaking.

The additional air pressure may reseat the tire bead and solve your "drippy" tire problem without having to completely dismantle it!

AKfish

 

[greg_g]

Is there a easy fix or do I have to take the tire to the dealer.

I suspect you may not have had enough air on top of the RimGuard, which permitted a foreign object to wedge between the bead and the rim. Assuming over-pressure doesn't work, the fix may not be complicated. But is likely to be difficult because of the weight involved.

I couldn't do it myself, my R4 rears probably weigh over 500# each. And I don't know if it could even be done safely with two people. But - with enough people and/or the right kind of equipment - the tire could laid flat with the leaking side facing up. If this puts the valve stem pointing at the ground, any remaining pressure should be released first. Once deflated and lying flat, the leaky rim seal should be broken. The remaining RimGuard will occupy the bottom 70% of the tire. The upper 30% will be an air pocket. This will permit you to reach in and clean the bead and the rim. Add air to reseat the bead, stand tire up, check for further leaking, reinstall if successful.

//greg//

 

[easygo]

It seems you would be best off getting it fixed at a shop. The expense in your case will be the pumping the fluid out and then back into the tire. I suggest you have them install an inner tube and that would curb future trouble like this. My neighbor uses his tractor a lot and and gets flat tires all the time. He had the tubes installed and that saves some trouble if not all.

 

[p0peye]

The tire was very low on air pressure also so we put in 30lbs and will try it today to see if this helps. But if there is a leak around the bead why doesn't the air pressure force out the rim guard . Thanks for the replies.

 

[radioman]

most likely you have dirt or something inside of your bead. I digress with others how to handle it and get it pumped out and back in.
If it only leaking one side of tire, and if you can get a helper to take tire off and roll it to your FEL. I would set tire down with good bead side down and leaking side up. (make sure you are close to the air compressor and have tractor blocked up safely) Use the FEL to pop the bead and then clean it good and wipe everything down with towel. re air it back up. Since you shouldnt be loading tires with liquid more then 75 percent, putting tire down on one side will hold the liquid in with good bead still holding.

 

[arrow]

The tire was very low on air pressure also so we put in 30lbs and will try it today to see if this helps. But if there is a leak around the bead why doesn't the air pressure force out the rim guard . Thanks for the replies.

Because the Rim Guard is not pressured sufficiently enough with the rather small area of air which is pressured. If it were high pressured, it would turn with the wheel. Personally, I think it is always a good idea to use a tube for liquid in rears. I've had calcium in my rears for 25 yrs with nary a mishap using tubes.

 

[AKfish]

The tire was very low on air pressure also so we put in 30lbs and will try it today to see if this helps. But if there is a leak around the bead why doesn't the air pressure force out the rim guard . Thanks for the replies.

Assuming you don't have some foreign object/material between the tire and the rim...

During the course of the winter and not using or moving your tractor (or a vehicle) very often; the contraction and expansion of tire/rim/rim guard with fluctuating temperatures, the bead may develop a slow leak. That's a common occurrance. Happens all the time with any kind of tired vehicle or implement.

My JD 110TLB had that happen just this past month or so. Tire leaking and going down... pump it up... goes back down... pump up... back down.

Finally just elevated the tire and overpressurized it for a couple of days.

Hasn't leaked down at all for weeks now.

AKfish

Depends upon where the fluid level is and the seal break on tire bead and the rim is located. Once all the air is displaced and just fluid remains inside the tire if the bead seal is leaking at the ground level, you'd expect that a sheen of fluid would eventually appear. Nothing major... just a light moisture.

 

[s219]

Because the Rim Guard is not pressured sufficiently enough with the rather small area of air which is pressured. If it were high pressured, it would turn with the wheel.

???

That doesn't make any sense -- what are you trying to say?

 

[greg_g]

Because the Rim Guard is not pressured sufficiently enough with the rather small area of air which is pressured. If it were high pressured, it would turn with the wheel.

You're joking - right?

//greg//

 

[arrow]

???

That doesn't make any sense -- what are you trying to say?

Glad you asked at least. The op had a question as to why the rim guard wouldn't leak out if he had a bead break if he put more pressure in. First, the Rim Guard would leak out with no pressure so a slight increase in pressure, if it did not close up the bead, it will still leak and have nothing to do with the pressure as the pressure is not great enough to have this stuff squirt out like hydraulic fluid. The pressure would have to seal the bead. With these minimal pressures, the fluid is not compressible as air is so it cannot gush out like an air leak would.

 

[arrow]

You're joking - right?

//greg//

I don't think I am but if you find it humorous I'm happy for you. I know it could never happen in this case but if there were so much air pressure in a vessel that could stand it that also had liquid in it, you could turn that vessel upside down and the weight of the liquid would be insufficient to displace the highly pressured air. I mean pressure is measured on how liquid can be displaced in a column.

 

[Deere Dude]

I suspect you may not have had enough air on top of the RimGuard, which permitted a foreign object to wedge between the bead and the rim. Assuming over-pressure doesn't work, the fix may not be complicated. But is likely to be difficult because of the weight involved.

I couldn't do it myself, my R4 rears probably weigh over 500# each. And I don't know if it could even be done safely with two people. But - with enough people and/or the right kind of equipment - the tire could laid flat with the leaking side facing up. If this puts the valve stem pointing at the ground, any remaining pressure should be released first. Once deflated and lying flat, the leaky rim seal should be broken. The remaining RimGuard will occupy the bottom 70% of the tire. The upper 30% will be an air pocket. This will permit you to reach in and clean the bead and the rim. Add air to reseat the bead, stand tire up, check for further leaking, reinstall if successful.

//greg//

How can that work? If the valve stem is down to the floor and the leak is on top, once the leaky seal is fixed, how can you put air in the tire to reseat the bead?

I would think bad things would happen quickly by letting the air out of the tire standing up and then trying to lay it down with all that weight and no air pressure in the tire.

 

[arrow]

In the context of the discussion, it cannot. Don't have a clue why arrow even wasted our time with this,

//greg//

You don't have a clue but you still think it a waste of time? Some people think differently than you and I so perhaps, just maybe, approaching it from a different angle allows them to connect better even if it seems to you to have little to do with the actual circumstance. It's called an "analogy"

 

[greg_g]

How can that work? If the valve stem is down to the floor and the leak is on top, once the leaky seal is fixed, how can you put air in the tire to reseat the bead?

I would think bad things would happen quickly by letting the air out of the tire standing up and then trying to lay it down with all that weight and no air pressure in the tire.

You misunderstood my explanation, or perhaps you're thinking vertical. You can lay a tire down (horizontally) two ways; valve stem facing the ground (and therefore inaccessible), valve stem facing the sky. If you want to add air, the valve stem needs to be facing the sky. But I now see a fly in my ointment. If the rim leak is on the side of the rim opposite the valve stem, you can't do both.

So the question becomes, is the leak on - or opposite - the valve stem?

//greg//

 

[s219]

I don't know what either of you clowns are talking about now . But since I work in fluid dynamics for a living, and both air and rimguard are fluids, I feel compelled to note that the lighter of two immiscible fluids in a vessel will always be on top here on earth where gravity points down.

 

[rsewill]

I don't know what either of you clowns are talking about now . But since I work in fluid dynamics for a living, and both air and rimguard are fluids, I feel compelled to note that the lighter of two immiscible fluids in a vessel will always be on top here on earth where gravity points down.

These are normal TBN clowns who don't know normal from normal.

 

[arrow]

I don't know what either of you clowns are talking about now . But since I work in fluid dynamics for a living, and both air and rimguard are fluids, I feel compelled to note that the lighter of two immiscible fluids in a vessel will always be on top here on earth where gravity points down.

C'mon S. Air is a fluid only in that it can flow. A real fluid that is not a gas is a much more difficult substance to compress than air. Your statement that you are compelled to spout (he-he) is true of course but you know as well as I do that pressure can change natural earth physics. (not enough to influence a tractor tire though) Cheez, the next thing you might say is a pound of water weighs the same as a pound of air and you know that can't be.

and rsewill: the trouble with "normal" is that most think they are don't you think?

 

[greg_g]

I don't know what either of you clowns are talking about now . But since I work in fluid dynamics for a living, and both air and rimguard are fluids, I feel compelled to note that the lighter of two immiscible fluids in a vessel will always be on top here on earth where gravity points down.

At atmospheric pressure, yes. But you're ignoring compression. Air is compressible, liquids are generally not. When the air is sufficiently compressed, it can and will force a column of liquid against gravity. Same principle that makes air-hydraulic jacks work. My point was that - in the otherwise inexplicable example that arrow presented - it's not possible for a rubber tire to contain an amount of pressure sufficient to force RimGuard to the top. Not sure a tire actually represents a column anyway.

Which makes this whole diversion useless to the actual topic; how to remedy a RimGuard rim leak. To resume, it would help to know if the leak is on the same side - or opposite - the valve stem.

//greg//