Ford 2N - 1945

[lilranch2001]

I cant really add any info on your 2n issue, and it seems you are on top of it, but I am interested in hearing about the 8n.

If it is just the wiring messed up, you can get a whole new harness for like $20:thumbsup:

Do you know what year it is?
Side mount distributor is a newer one

Does it have a sherman? That would be a lever on the side of the transmission just forward of the clutch pedal. It is a pretty desirable option:thumbsup:

And one more thing to add, if ya didnt know, the N's had a transmission driven PTO, so you need an over-running-coupler on the PTO. Otherwise, when you are mowing along and hit the clutch to stop, the momentum of the bushhog blades will continue to drive the tractor because the PTO is connected to the transmission. All the clutch does is disconnect the engine.

Good luck with your tractors, and we like pics too:thumbsup:

I never had an over running clutch on my 8N, the "push" was part of the charm of that tractor, and the "challenge" not to get yourself in trouble because of it!


:thumbsup:
:laughing:

 

[LD1]

I never had an over running clutch on my 8N, the "push" was part of the charm of that tractor, and the "challenge" not to get yourself in trouble because of it!


:thumbsup:
:laughing:

Not sure challenge is the term I'd use.

An $80 ORC is pretty cheap insurance not to push you over that big rock or stump that you didnt see till the last minute and needed to stop in a hurry.:confused2:

Or to keep from running over the stupid family dog that just darted in front of you:laughing:

Or if it is your first rodeo, to keep you from driving through the neighbors fence, destroying it, maybe giving you a flat, and wrapping up a bunch of fencing in the hog.

 

[Soundguy]

or hitting a parked car or a light post.. get the orc for sure!

too bad the lift cover is damaged.. you can swap an 8n pump and lift cover (together ) to a 2n, and vis a vis

can't mix and match though.. 8n cover goes with pump.. fits 8/9/2 center.. same with the 2n / 9n

 

[lilranch2001]

Not sure challenge is the term I'd use.

An $80 ORC is pretty cheap insurance not to push you over that big rock or stump that you didnt see till the last minute and needed to stop in a hurry.:confused2:

Or to keep from running over the stupid family dog that just darted in front of you:laughing:

Or if it is your first rodeo, to keep you from driving through the neighbors fence, destroying it, maybe giving you a flat, and wrapping up a bunch of fencing in the hog.

yeah, I was either good, or good and lucky, never had any real issue in 12 years with it and put a lot of hours building my place with that old 8N, but an old timer came along and offered me more than I thought she was worth, he was going to restore her, so I gave it up and put a little cash with that money and got the Bobcat.

I probably had more fun with that 8N than I ever will with the Bobcat, but I was a lot younger n full of piss n vinegar then

 

[LD1]

yeah, I was either good, or good and lucky, never had any real issue in 12 years with it and put a lot of hours building my place with that old 8N, but an old timer came along and offered me more than I thought she was worth, he was going to restore her, so I gave it up and put a little cash with that money and got the Bobcat.

I probably had more fun with that 8N than I ever will with the Bobcat, but I was a lot younger n full of piss n vinegar then

You do much bushhogging with it??

 

[lilranch2001]

You do much bushhogging with it??

kept about 8 acres under control for about 6 years before I got it all planted as lawn

Used it more with the back box for shaping the land and getting it ready to plant the lawn, and also dug my walk out basement with it, only needed a loader for half a day to clean out the corners

 

[Cleon Rogers]

The 9N/2N lift cover has an external plug on each side under the cylinder. Thought they might be for bleeding, but I tried the allen/hex screws and they wouldn't move, even after heating, etc. The 8N cover doesn't have the screws. Must not be needed.

The 8N has other issues besides the wiring. The lift cover is damaged by the draft control. There is a dirt-dobber nest inside the hydraulic area. I'll plan to get a photo. Took the 8N hyd pump apart and the pistons look better than the 2N. It doesn't have a Sherman. The PTO shaft has an over-running-coupler and the larger spline. Could swap it to the 2N, but my bush hog uses the smaller spline.

New control valve and gaskets haven't arrived yet.

Picture of the damaged 9N control valve, attached, maybe...

 

[Cleon Rogers]

The 8N serial number is 8N427375 so I guess that makes it a 1951 model. I got it for $400. Took the better bumper off, the hyd dipstick, the oil cap. It has better tires than the 2N. Got two adjustable top links. It was supposedly running before the ladies boyfriend attempted a 12V conversion and messed it up. She said she got rid of the boyfriend, and now she has gotten rid of the tractor, too. But externally, it looks older than the 2N. Must not have seen much of a shed or a grease gun. Lot of play in the steering. After I get the 2N lift working and finish clearing some brush, etc, I may try to start it using stuff from the 2N.

Cleon

 

[Soundguy]

different points and coil and generator i'm afraid, between a front and side mount.

starter will swap. lift cover and pump will swap.. front hubs will swap.

 

[trac]

Got a good deal on that 8N. If the lift works and the engines got compression, would be worth repairing. Side mounts always sold well. No question, that their is demand for them. Use to reman. few units a winter. Never had any trouble selling for a good buck.

 

[Cleon Rogers]

Is the lift fork supposed to be straight? Mine is bent. Both sides are bent the same amount and it looks like it could be made that way. The bend starts right after the curved reinforcement on both legs. Hard to tell from the Parts Manual diagram.

 

[Soundguy]

bottom left

 

[Cleon Rogers]

Thanks SouNdguy. Saw that pic in the manual but still couldn't tell. Straightened it and put it back in. Filled oil to just below PTO with side cover off. No leak coming from the relief valve. No obvious leak from the stand pipe. Didn't see any around the gasket areas. No drips from the ram cylinder. Some "tiny bubbles" coming up from the pump area. The rebuild kit is on the way from Just8ns.

The previous photo of the control valve and its bent internal shaft aren't a problem. I finally figured out that the oil doesn't flow through the hole in the valve. The valve side blocks holes in the pump that are perpendicular to the valve. When the control arm (fork) is all the way forward, the intake ports are exposed (OPEN) at the tapered end of the control valve. When the valve is part way out of the pump to the rear (NUETRAL), both the intake and exhaust ports are both blocked (CLOSED) . When the valve is pulled more to the rear of the pump (and tractor), the two small exhaust ports (further forward of the intake ports inside the pump) are exposed (OPEN) to the control valve taper on that end. When the control arm (fork) is bent to the rear, as my was, the valve can't be moved forward enough to open the intake port.

Since my lift will hold up after manually lifting it (and the lever in the up position), it seems to indicate that the RAM cylinder is good. But since the hydraulics won't lift anything heavy, and it doesn't have obvious leaks elsewhere, it seems to indicate that the pump needs rebuilding. We'll see...

Also, finally figured out how to search the 'N' archives at yesterdays tractors. Wow, there is a lot to read on hydraulics. Found the one by SouNdguy, pushing in the clutch and turning the PTO shaft by hand to manually operate the pump and lift - engine not required. NEAT TRICK. I tried that and my lift didn't go up.

[Since the archives are alphabetical, I found 'hydraulics' around page 760, just entered '760' in the URL - http://www.ytmag.com/nboard/messages/archive760.htm] (location on 19MAR2012)

Cleon

 

[Cleon Rogers]

Photos of the 1951 8N lift cover and more... (It has the side distributor).

photo 1 shows the 8N lift cover damage.
photo 2 shows the wasp nest inside the housing.
photo 3 shows the 8N side distributor.
photo 4 shows a 9N lift cover side view with the external access via a hex plug by the stand pipe port.

Click the pix for a zoom view...

 

[Soundguy]

it could be that the valve/chambers/pistons are worn..

 

[Cleon Rogers]

Bad News. Got the rebuilt kit and was cleaning everything when I discovered a crack in the pump under the PTO bushing. It ran from there down behind the bushing for the control valve.

Oh well, I took a dremel tool and cutting wheel to open the crack about 1/32" and put some JB Weld, thinking it was worth a try. Didn't work... Same problem. The lift holds up a boom for a day, but it won't lift it. If I help it, it will hold it. Still getting tiny bubbles in the fluid under the pump, maybe less than before. Can the pumps be brazed with any success? Will the heat warp/crack the pump? Is the pump cast iron or cast steel? Anyone have a 9N/2N pump base for sale, cheap?

Oh, my side chamber cylinders were scratched so I used the ones from the 8N. My kit had new pistons, etc.

It still works for mowing and pulling stuff...

Cleon

 

[Soundguy]

pump base can be aluminum or iron.. i say cast iron.. it may in fact be cast steel.

i would not have tried the jb weld.. you will have to clean 100% of it out to actually do a correct repair.

my choice for that would be silver solder... but yeah.. could be brazed.. could probably be welded using the correct rod and some preheat and slow cool.. i've welded cast iron on tractors before with great results....

this guy may have a pump base. or entire pump.. friend of mine that parts tractors:

webbtractor@gmail.com

also can try this guy.. I've bought (literally) tons of parts from him.

Smith's Old Ford Tractors john smith. his site shows none for sale whole.. but he has a whole barn full of parts and may have a pump base.. hopefully one of them does..

mention my name... probably won't help any.. but won't hurt either..

soundguy

 

[whodat526]

where are you located

 

[Cleon Rogers]

My 2N's pump is not aluminum. It has "CS" and "CO" embossed in the metal. Maybe cast steel for "CS"? Which is better for a novice to use to do a good enough job, silver solder or brazing? Have some of the Nickel/Silver Blue rods and have a small two-bottle setup, a BernzOMatic ToteTorch, but don't know if it will run long enough to heat the thick metal. Oxygen tank lasts around 8-10 minutes. Mainly used for lightweight stuff and plumbing.

My 8N's pump is aluminum. I have other 8N parts that I could swap for a 9N/2N pump base. Just need the base, everything else came with the kit, except the side chambers, which I took for the 8N and measured with a mic.

Sent emails for pump parts to both contacts and mentioned SouNdGuy.

Cleon

 

[Cleon Rogers]

I'm in Little Rock, Arkansas.