Tractor News I think my 1610D seized!!!!

[Acre Garden]

Long story short, tried to start 鼎lick? Used battery car booster 鼎lick? Pulled covers attached breaker bar to crank shaft bolt, no movement. Now what? Had it for only 3 yrs.

 

[winston1]

Would seem it is time to open her up, most seem to recommend pan off first. Did this just come on suddenly with no symtoms?

 

[Acre Garden]

I used it last fall, parked it, and tried to start it this spring.

 

[rrrkkk]

Tractors don't break just sitting there, it may be stuck but I doubt it is seized.

 

[Acre Garden]

Stuck? How do I unstick?

 

[winston1]

Did it set outside where water might have got in the exhaust? Might pull the injectors and spray some penetrating oil in there and let set awhile. Make sure when you do try to turn the engine you pull the compression release in case there is liquid on top the pistons. Liquid won't compress. How much force did you put on the breaker bar?

 

[Acre Garden]

Uh, yes. Sorry, I do not have a barn.
The exhaust pipe is broken also. So maybe it did get water in there.
I did pull the pressure release in the event it was a vapor lock.

 

[YannyMan]

Time to fill the cylinders with Marvell Mystery Oil and let it soak. That should break the rust free if that's what it is.


While that is going on, pull the starter and have it checked for functionality.

 

[284 International]

Acre Garden, I think Winston was asking about the potential for water getting into the engine as a diagnostic thing, not to judge your storage methods. If motor has probably gotten into the engine, the procedure to fix it will go differently than if the clutch disk is frozen and the tractor is in gear. (Just in case, make sure you're in neutral.)


If the exhaust gets water into it, sometimes it drips down into the cylinders and sits. Check the oil before you do much else. If it is up above normal, there is definitely water in the lower end. Over time (and it doesn't take that long) the rings and cylinder walls rust together, and stick. Pulling the injectors will give you a direct shot into the cylinders. Spraying a penetrating oil in there can sometimes loosen up the rust, and let the engine move.

The injectors have two bolts on a retaining plate that fasten them down, like 17 in this picture , though this is off the next smaller tractor than yours.

Sometimes the injectors are impossible to remove without a puller. Don't try to use vise-grips to mangle it out. You can rent the pullers from Hoye; other places locally may have them too. You may have to pull the cylinder head, which isn't that hard, to clean out the rust. Before trying that, if the injectors won't come out, pull off the exhaust manifold. You can probably thread the straw of your oil spray up the exhaust port.

With the valve cover off, press down on the exhaust valve stems one at a time and blast away. Let it settle in, repeat. Then give the oil time to work. It may give you enough to break the engine free.

Good luck. These are excellent little machines, and relatively easy to work on. You'll be able to get through it.

 

[3nickles]

a freind who is a better mechanic than i ever will be told me once that a siezed diesel is usually a siezed valve.I think he said he takes off the valve covers and gives each valve a tap and voila ! He always makes things sound simple.

 

[3nickles]

maybe cranks the camshafts ? i really should listen more

 

[Acre Garden]

I am in the process of removing the head off my ym1610. I have loosened the four bolts inside and the two bolts, two studs from the outside. Am I supposed to loosen the four smaller bolts on the inside, or do I need to tap the head with a rubber malt to loosen it?

Inside = if valve cover on the bolts would be inside
Outside = if valve cover on the bolts would be outside

 

[ttstpsvernon]

I would remove all verticle bolts, rocker arms and pushrod

 

[winston1]

Looking at your head gasket Yanmar Tractor Parts: HEAD GASKET_ you have 8 large bolts/studs as you can see the big holes. You then have 3 small bolts called cylinder head assist bolts. So if you remove 11total bolts/nuts the head should come off. Need to remove rocker arms and push rods as ttstpsvernon stated.

 

[Acre Garden]

Ok, how about those torque and gap specs.

 

[winston1]

main cylinder head bolts in stages of 29 ft lbs, 58 ft lbs and then 72-79 ft lbs. Start in center and work outward in a diagonal pattern. Cylinder head assist bolts 22 ft lbs. Rocker arm shaft support nuts 40 ft lbs. Valves to set at .008". What else? I have read back over this thread and am curious just what you have found. Any thing you could report??

 

[Acre Garden]

See what happens when you buy on consignment. It had a poorly welded muffler that went after the first year. However, I should have replaced it myself when it stated wiggling on its own. Putting a can on top did not help because of the crack.

 

[clemsonfor]

Dont think you can blame this on a used tractor from a previous buyer if thats what you mean? You knew it was bad and he did too, but he may have kept it in a shed so there was no way it could leak into the engine. Dont blame stuff on others all the time if thats what you are doing.

Anyway i hate this for you hate to see anything that is stuck and frozen, good luck and hope you can hone that mess out and its not pitted to deep.

 

[MasseyWV]

See what happens when you buy on consignment. It had a poorly welded muffler that went after the first year. However, I should have replaced it myself when it stated wiggling on its own. Putting a can on top did not help because of the crack.

Yikes! That is definitely going to take a bit of work to fix.

At the very least, I see a set of rings, and honing. Worst case scenario is that you'll have to have it bored and go with oversized pistons and rings. What kind of shape is the head in?

 

[Garybake]

Looks are always worse than the the actual damage is, Acre Garden. When was photo taken and where are you at now? Keep us posted. She'll be running before you know it.