HTL suggestions for m7040?
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Zebrafive
Super Member
I am guessing this is a BIG tractor. CAT II 3PT hitch. I would check the owner's manual and see if it specs the minimum and maximum length for the top link. If not, take measurements from the actual top link.
For my JD 6415 the owner's manual states 20.9" to 28.5". Surplus Center has Swivel Ball End Cylinders with 1" pin holes. Correct size for CAT II. I plan to use a 3" bore cylinder. A 10" stroke will cover 18.25" to 28.25". A 12" stroke will cover 20.25" to 32.25" I am leaning towards the 12" stroke, thinking a little longer will be than a little shorter.
They use SAE 8 ports which I prefer over NPT.
They do not have POCVs which I do not need since my SCVs have built in checks.
For my JD 6415 the owner's manual states 20.9" to 28.5". Surplus Center has Swivel Ball End Cylinders with 1" pin holes. Correct size for CAT II. I plan to use a 3" bore cylinder. A 10" stroke will cover 18.25" to 28.25". A 12" stroke will cover 20.25" to 32.25" I am leaning towards the 12" stroke, thinking a little longer will be than a little shorter.
They use SAE 8 ports which I prefer over NPT.
They do not have POCVs which I do not need since my SCVs have built in checks.
MtnViewRanch
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3" dia cylinder with a working length of 20"-30" cat 1-2. cat 1 end at the tractor and cat2 at the implement end.----------------------------$225
Hose kit with 3/8" hoses, 36" long with 1/2" male AG quick connect ends. -------------------------------------------------------------------$40
Hydraulic flow restrictor, this allows for precision adjustments to be made much easier. -----------------------------------------------------$10
shipping costs ??
If you are going to be doing much grading, you may want to consider a hydraulic side link also.
MtnViewRanch
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With the top link being longer than OEM, you may have transport problems. As in not being able to lift the tail end of the implement up high enough to clear rough terrain or loading onto a trailer. Always something to think about. Also be sure that the link that you get clears the mount on the tractor when it is installed. You don't want anything binding up.
MtnViewRanch
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If you can find one that starts out at 20" & extends out further than 30", go for it. No harm done, it's just may experience that if you want a 12" stroke, you are going to be looking at a working length of 22"-34" and IMO 22" is to long of a retracted length for your M7040.
Just my :2cents:
Zebrafive
Super Member
It would only be longer at full extention. Retracted it would be .65" shorter than retracted length of factory top link.
The 10" stroke cylinder would be 2.65" shorter (fully retracted) than my factory top link fully retracted. I worry it would be possible to retract too much with this extra 2.65" and pull something into the tractor causing damage. Hence my reason for using a 12" stroke cylinder.
MtnViewRanch
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It would only be longer at full extention. Retracted it would be .65" shorter than retracted length of factory top link.
The 10" stroke cylinder would be 2.65" shorter (fully retracted) than my factory top link fully retracted. I worry it would be possible to retract too much with this extra 2.65" and pull something into the tractor causing damage. Hence my reason for using a 12" stroke cylinder.
Zebrafive, Do you have a link to the hydraulic that you want to use? The 20"-30" top link that I am talking about is built for the Kubota M7040. Your tractor is different, You only have a single hole to mount to. The M series have 3 holes to choose from. The top link mount on the tractor is completely different than yours. Where you can probably get away with the Surplus cylinder, 4105deere may very well have a problem with it.
danceswithdirt
Bronze Member
Ok mtnviewranch bear with me, Im still me just changed my handle (formerly 4105deere). Really ready to get htl and side link. The one you have for my new 7040 (gettn goosebumps) will be just what I need right?
MtnViewRanch
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DWT, yes unless you are going to use Pat's quick hitch or something similar which most people with the lower extend-able ends do not go to. Email me at Fit Rite and I will get you an exact cost and everything that you would be getting. I just shipped a complete "TnT" kit last month to a dealer in New York for an M7040. By chance does one of your rear remotes have float position or are they both the self canceling detent type?
Just wondering. :confused3:
danceswithdirt
Bronze Member
Self canceling.
MtnViewRanch
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Bummer, would have been nice to have at least one with float for the side link, oh well.
See if they will exchange one for one with float, or add the 3rd remote, you are going to need the 3rd remote anyway.
Zebrafive
Super Member
Surplus Center item number 9-7261-12
Yes my tractor only has one postion for the tractor end of the link.
So in your post #4, were you refering to me or 4105deere? I was trying to understand why you thought being able to extend longer than std link would be a problem? Just retract it too long
MtnViewRanch
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Surplus Center item number 9-7261-12
Yes my tractor only has one postion for the tractor end of the link.
So in your post #4, were you refering to me or 4105deere? I was trying to understand why you thought being able to extend longer than std link would be a problem? Just retract it too long
No, post # 4 was for you. When you can't retract far enough, there are many times when the implement will hit the dirt when you don't want it to and you can't use the hydraulic top link to pick the tail end up any higher because the top link is collapsed all the way. This is common when in rough terrain or when loading onto a trailer. I think that the ideal configuration is to have the hydraulic at mid stroke when the implement is parallel with the ground that the tractor is on. In most cases it seems to work out best to match as close as possible to the OEM top link. If item # 9-7261-12 allows you to be collapsed as short or shorter than your OEM top link, then you would be good to go.
danceswithdirt
Bronze Member
I hope to have the 3rd function installed in march. Its on back order.
Zebrafive
Super Member
OK, that clears it up!
Thanks :thumbsup: That cylinder will collapse shorter than the OEM top link. I plan to use 1/4" hose. Then if too fast add resrictors.Size and weight of my tractor means I will not be trailering it. I would need a bigger truck and trailer
