Allied blower not moving snow

rsewill · Feb 2, 2012

Check your clearance between the impeller and the housing. If more than an eighth of an inch you should add extensions, easy now that you are taking it apart.

jpm1 · Feb 2, 2012

nstractor,
Remember we were all new at one time! IMO the people who don't ask questions, don't know much!.
Glad to hear some positive news! The big joke with my blower was keeping the impeller paddles square.The blower in the pictures was rebuilt twice because of extreme wear and abuse. In 2010 i priced replacement parts and bearings ect. and it totaled 1200 dollars plus delivery. I bought the new blower for 1600$ ready to go brandy new! My uncle has my old one and is going to straighten out the pile of scrap and use it. The impeller is important in snow removal in needs to be straight. The straighter the paddles the better the cupping action to throw snow. The auger is another piece that needs to be straight. If it is bent, it will not evenly distribute the snow to the impeller causing the blower to plug. Even though the blower is a simple machine everything needs to work together to work effectively. Good luck .. . John
heres a pic of the new blower thats been used once!

grsthegreat · Feb 2, 2012

I had the same farmking unit and i had to do 2 things to get it to work correctly.

1. I had to add stiffeners to the flighting ends cause the smallest rock bent the auger so it wouldn't suck th e snow into the impeller.

2. I removed the 3/8" stiffeners on the impellers and added 3/4" rods to brace them. otherwise the impeller heads bent all the time. The design is good, but the supports sucked on that unit.

After the repairs it threw dry snow 30 feet...wet snow was another issue

slowzuki · Feb 3, 2012

The boys on here won't like your tip clearance grs! My lucknow has the tips worn back too.

nstractor · Feb 3, 2012

So I got the impeller straightened out pretty decent, put it back on an it does work better, but I still think there is room for improvement. My tach is one that reads 0-5-10-15-20-25 and at full throttle only comes up as far as 17-18, it does sound like its revving out does this sound right?

Thanks for all the help and insight thus far, great group of guys here!:thumbsup:

reggiejr · Feb 3, 2012

So are you @ 1700-1800 under no load or is that while your working the blower under a load?
Do you have a different color mark on there anywhere to show you where 540 is at?
On my tractor 540 pto rpm is @2580 rpms this translates to not quite full throttle but close to it ill say like 85-90% of max rpms.
Blowers preform poorly at low rpms so keep your rpms close to full power and keep your ground speed down and you should have good luck with it,mine works awesome I wouldn't be without it.Also i would consider changing your gearbox gearoil while your in repair mode so you'll know its good to go.

nstractor · Feb 3, 2012

That would be under load, no mark on the tach to show where 540 is at.

reggiejr · Feb 3, 2012

Engage your blower at an idle and then bring it up to say 2200-2300 and than give it a load that should be about right.The tractor will tell you what it likes.

nstractor · Feb 3, 2012

reggiejr said:
Engage your blower at an idle and then bring it up to say 2200-2300 and than give it a load that should be about right.The tractor will tell you what it likes.

Cant get past 2000 with out the blower, grrrrrr

reggiejr · Feb 3, 2012

Well 1700-1800 sounds like your tractors range it should still do just fine.

ericher69 · Feb 3, 2012

Are you sure that the auger and fan are turning in the right direction?

Also one auger should be one way and the opposite auger the mirror opposite so as to draw snow in from the other side.

Video of the problem would help

nstractor · Feb 4, 2012

So the whole rpm thing got the best of me today so I went looking at the throttle linkage. To my surprise there is an adjustable throttle stop, with a little tongue biting I slid it back a bit and managed to get 2100 rpm

Much better performance now! I think I will still add to the impellers as there is about 3/16" to 1/4" clearance.

reggiejr · Feb 4, 2012

nice work,the extra rpms will definitely help for blowing snow.

Don87 · Feb 5, 2012

nstractor said:
So the whole rpm thing got the best of me today so I went looking at the throttle linkage. To my surprise there is an adjustable throttle stop, with a little tongue biting I slid it back a bit and managed to get 2100 rpm
Much better performance now! I think I will still add to the impellers as there is about 3/16" to 1/4" clearance.

Rated RPM's are 2,000 for your tractor according to Tractordata.com. Be careful going above that:

TractorData.com Massey Ferguson 231 tractor engine information

Jay4200 · Feb 6, 2012

nstractor said:
So the whole rpm thing got the best of me today so I went looking at the throttle linkage. To my surprise there is an adjustable throttle stop, with a little tongue biting I slid it back a bit and managed to get 2100 rpm
Much better performance now! I think I will still add to the impellers as there is about 3/16" to 1/4" clearance.

I don't think you'll see much of a difference by adding to your blades. 3/16" to 1/4" is fine anyway. Snow packs around the inside of the fan housing almost instantly, and takes up all of the extra space. As long as the blades are all the same length, you should be good to go.

Blowers need to be run at WFO, especially if the snow is a little wet - the more RPMs the better.

JayC