Oil & Fuel Fuel Tank Removal HELP Please

[Arizona Rancher]

I have a Kioti DK40 and the fuel tank rusted and it clogs the fuel filter after less than an hour of use. So bad the engine killed. I am trying to remove the fuel tank. I have the top, sides, and all nuts and bolts holding what I can see of the fuel tamk and it will not come out. I just received a schematic of the fuel tank from Kioti (mine is a 2000) and it looks like I have everything loose. I also have the parts manual and the shop manual and they do not address fuel tank removal. It will not budge. Does anyone have a suggestion or experience in this area?

 

[SSdoxie]

I don't know if this will help. The attached is pages from current Bobcat CT440 (DK40) serivce manual.

 

[Arizona Rancher]

Thanks. While I think I did basically that. Tomorrow in the daylight I will double check. There is a ~2 inch by ~3/4 inch bar that the fuel tank was attached to. I removed the attaching bolts and the 2 attached to the frame on both sides at the bottom of the tractor. But I can't rotate it forward to remove it. There is a bar (~2 x 4 inches) over the top of it and it won't rotate out of that things way so I can remove that. The firewall is loose but will not pull out or slide sideways. This is truly frustrating. Thanks for the pdf.

 

[Arizona Rancher]

Hello. Todays another day. The frame (~2 inches by ~3/4 inch goes completely around the fuel tank. One might think that the unit tips out. Not the case. Two more bolts on each side (need a bendable coupler) need to be removed. Now it is loose and moves but there is more and more is tomorrow when I figure out how to finally get it out. No wonder the Kioti "engineers" didn't include a diagram for the removal in the shop manual (which I have), they couldn't figure out how to explain how, but that is just a guess(?)!

 

[IslandTractor]

Do you have a DK40se or DK40? I'm guessing it is a pre 2007 DK rather than a newer DKse series. If so the Bobcat 440 diagrams are wrong as they are the DKse generation.

 

[Arizona Rancher]

I have a 2000 DK40. The .pdf was helpful as such. Yes my DK40 (NO SE) is different than the .pdf shows but it still helped. I still have to get the tank out but it moves side to side and forward and backward and something is still in the way. Going out to work on it now.

 

[DirtHauler]

Don't know if this will help ya but when I split my '06 CK30 to replace the clutch, I discovered that there is a couple of bolts holding the bottom of the fuel tank "frame" to the rear of engine just above the flywheel. These bolts are accessible thru holes in the firewall behind the steering column.

Your DK40 may or may not have this set up but it might be worth checking.

 

[Arizona Rancher]

Thanks. I have the fuel tank totally loose. The "Frame" around it has four bolts on each side and at first I totally missed the "bottom" two bolts. To get the fire wall out I have to take parts off the top of the engine. Minor. So now I have the firewall pulled up and on top of the motor and the fuel tank is ready to come out I THINK. EXCEPT, there is this ROD on the drivers left side (see attachment pdf of three photos) that goes through the fuel tank frame preventing removal of the fuel tank. The pin holding the rod to some piece has the head of the pin towards the alternator which prevents its removal. Screwed again.

So the question is if I cut the pin will the rod move out of the way or what? I.e., once disconnected will it move up freely or how do I get this out of the way to remove the fuel tank? Anyone have any insight to help? And yes this is Arizona and we are dusty dusty.

 

[Coyote machine]

Thanks. I have the fuel tank totally loose. The "Frame" around it has four bolts on each side and at first I totally missed the "bottom" two bolts. To get the fire wall out I have to take parts off the top of the engine. Minor. So now I have the firewall pulled up and on top of the motor and the fuel tank is ready to come out I THINK. EXCEPT, there is this ROD on the drivers left side (see attachment pdf of three photos) that goes through the fuel tank frame preventing removal of the fuel tank. The pin holding the rod to some piece has the head of the pin towards the alternator which prevents its removal. Screwed again.

So the question is if I cut the pin will the rod move out of the way or what? I.e., once disconnected will it move up freely or how do I get this out of the way to remove the fuel tank? Anyone have any insight to help? And yes this is Arizona and we are dusty dusty.

Missed the 2nd and 3rd pic at first; now I can see what I missed in first pic- that is NOT the alternator, it's the starter. If you cut the pin and insert a new one after the repair you might be able to reverse the pin so the end with the cotter pin which passes through it to hold it in place is facing the left side of the tractor instead of the engine, hard to tell from here if there is enough space; but worst case you could remove the starter to accomplish the task as a last resort, after trying other things first....
I would guess you might be able to tip the tank away from the firewall enough to get it by the bar?
Keep plugging- you'll get it! Remember, if it went together it has to be able to come apart too. If that doesn't work fall back to whatever won't come apart just needs a bigger hammer, or 'fire axe' Aussie for torch!:laughing:

Curious, how did the tank rust out?
And I believe you should be able to get that tank repaired for life by any quality tank repair place who has access to a company that repairs tanks by cleaning them, then applying a special coating to the inside of the tank and then gives you a lifetime guarantee- much cheaper in most instances than a new tank which could also rot out over time. Linux truck bed coating may offer this service in your area- check around.
I had this done to my pickup tank years ago and it worked great- but the rest of the truck rotted out

 

[blueriver]

Curious, how did the tank rust out?

I would also like to know that ...

 

[Coyote machine]

One other thing before I forget to mention it. If, as you state the tank's rotting out clogs your fuel filter in less the an hour I really hope for your sake you haven't done extensive damage downstream to the injection pump and or injectors. How many hours on the DK ? Are you the original owner?
Additionally, if you have a source of diesel that might be contaminating your tractor's tank, then maybe that is the actual problem and not a rotted on-board tank? Just thinking out loud here, not saying you're wrong, BUT you will need to find a different source of diesel when you're done figuring out the tank issues, otherwise you will end up with similar problems, or worse, assuming downstream damage hasn't already occurred.
I'm suspicious of a rotted diesel tank on the DK- but anything is possible given the right set of circumstances.
Post back requested details, please.
Thanks 'Dusty'

Thought of something else. If it were me I'd put the fuel cap on the tank and clean around the fuel gauge sender mounting on top of the tank. Then I'd carefully remove the gauge's sender unit and put it aside while I took a bright flashlight and looked carefully inside the tank to see what is in the tank. You said it was rotting, but I didn't see anything about it leaking?! This might further confirm my suspicion that the tank is contaminated by a bad fuel supply source and that is what is leading you to believe it is a rotted tank.
Again, I could be wrong, but it's always a possibility

 

[rimshot]

ArizonaRancher,

Thanks for sharing all this with us. I'm just a s curious as the rest so far as how in the world when you got to be in just about the dryest state in the union does a perfectly good fuel tank rot/rust off of a Tractor in such little time. My four year old tractor does not go very far along the rust belt salt covered roads around here but I don't think that four year old tank of mine is anywhere close to rusting.

Good luck with your task.

rimshot

 

[Arizona Rancher]

1st the easy question. I have only 175 hours -on my machine in 11 years. So I assume that sitting ariund with the huge temperature change here is Arizona put water in the tank. Other than that, your guess is as good as mine. But dont let the small number of hours fool you, it cleared my 6 acres with desert trees with roots that were over 10 feet long using our TR3 (a most wonderful machine!). That took 2 months alone. Also, it bored 1000 fence posts. So it has earned it's keep.

Then the pictures in the PDF - there are 3 of them. To pull the fuel tank out I must be able to move the steel rod shown in 2 of the pictures. It is connected to a "Y" shaped device with a pin that cant come out because the alternator or starter is in the way. The question is if I cut the pin freeing the rod is it- the rod, free to move enough to remove the fuel tank. And no I donot want to remove the alternator / starter.

So cutting the pin holding the rod - now then the rod nis o longer is attached by the motor but can it move enough to get the fuel tank out. The pin is a stock $4.00 item at any implement store.

I have an email into Kioti

 

[Arizona Rancher]

I have an email into Kioti but they have no info except an outdated or post dated drawing of the fuel tank. They, Kioti, doesn't have any infor on removing the fuel tank. I am working with the Tech Support Manager.

Should have mentioned that I was working with Kioti sooner. They did finally contact me. Since I have a Kubota I was already talking with them and they were trying to help me.

The gentleman was right, the starter must be removed per Kioti. If you have a Cat the fuel tank comes out towards the instrument panel as it was explained to me. In Kioti, the fuel tank comes out towards the engine. And again this applies at least to my tractor. So on not wanting to remove the starter, I eat CROW. Can I use salt please? I just got back from a car service appointment in Phoenix and it is too late to really explore new territory yet tonight. I feel that I can get it out tomorrow morning.

One note, the Kioti tech said that "blue" locktite would be a good idea on reassemble. More tomorrow and everybody T H A N K S !!!

 

[Coyote machine]

AR,
Is it your conclusion that there is rust, etc. inside the tank from long periods of condensation build up in your fuel tank, and as a result of this the tank is rusted enough to warrant removal and replacement, or at least cleaning and possible permanent sealing as I mentioned earlier?
If it were my tank I'd prefer to seal it, especially considering the climate you live in, and the fact that removing that tank is a once in a lifetime deed, hopefully, and you don't want to have to do so again ten or so years down the road.
And you may add salt to the crow!:thumbsup:
Or in the case of you 'western' guys chipolte or red hot sauce!

 

[Arizona Rancher]

When Kioti finally got back to me they said the hardened steel rod is connected to the clutch and it moves up freely. It does. I got the tank just about out and there are two more bolts on the bottom of the tank. Okay I must say that this tank is well mounted. I appreciate that. No half vast ideas here. It is well mounted. Getting the tank out required a crow bar and it is really a tight fit. SUCCESS FINALLY without disaster - THANKS ALL.

Trying to check all bases I good quotes of new tank prices exceeding $650.00 - wow. I must say it is not thin sheet metal, it is quite hardy - seems well made. The first radiator shop I contacted wanted $300 + to clean it and seal it and no guarantee. The second was under $200 and they explained to me that the liner will be gone is less than three years in diesel. They went on to say that if it was gas, the liner only lasts a year or less - our gas additive eats the liner - lifts it. When the liner lifts - thats removal time again - no good. I am trying a industrial radiator shop next and there are no bed liner shops that work with tanks here in the Phoenix area.

So, ... onward. I have through all this found out that many of the Cat parts are the same as the Kioti and at a considerable savings. And I do mean considerable. They don't have a furl tank for this vintage however. JFYI. More as we progress!

 

[rd_macgregor]

You've gone through quite a struggle to get the tank out; I hope you find a good, affordable fix for it.
For other owners, I haven't double-checked, but I was SURE the tank in my 2006 DK45 was plastic. Am I imagining this?
BOB

 

[Gator6x4]

A member who posts owns a Mahindra I believe replaced his tank with one a friend or Machine shop fabricated out of stainless steel for him. You may want to see what a Machine Shop will construct one out of Stainless for.

 

[kraftykeltic]

might want to try the por15.com gas tank kit to coat the inside of the tank. expensive but they seem to work.

 

[Arizona Rancher]

You've gone through quite a struggle to get the tank out; I hope you find a good, affordable fix for it.
For other owners, I haven't double-checked, but I was SURE the tank in my 2006 DK45 was plastic. Am I imagining this?
BOB

More than likely yours is plastic as I believe all new tanks are (ie some combination of compounds to address rusting). More than likely your fuel tank might extract like a Cat - through the dash area or away from the motor. the new Cat's are all plastic something or other and they extract that way - at least from what I saw yesterday.

I am trying all avenues. Really donot want to put a new one in unless I have to. Thanks ALL!

What surprises me is that there is no business here ready and able to fix this - I found 2 shops that will look at it and that is tomorrow since I am 65 miles from Phoenix. Things sure do change don't they!

Just checked with my Auto Parts extrodinaire person and the POR15 is his recommendation as well since all the shops he used no longer work on fuel tanks. So I am going to order that shortly.