Need help removing rusted up nut!

[HCJtractor]

I am disassembling an old Athens Harrow. The gang nut on the disc shaft is a 2.75" castle nut on a 1.25 or 1.5" shaft. It's been sitting for decades in the weather. The rust doesn't really look that bad but it won't budge. I have a 1" drive impact socket and a long 42" breaker bar. I have sprayed about a whole can of PB Blaster. I also heated it with an acetylene torch (but I am new to acetylene so I may could get it a little hotter next time.)

I think I may go to a repair shop with a 1" drive impact driver and maybe that will work. Any ideas or advice would be appreciated. What type of businesses have a 1" drive that would be willing to tackle this?

 

[kevinj]

Heat it to about cherry red

 

[5030]

Heat it to about cherry red

I'd not do that for one reason, you'll ruin the chemistry of the shaft that's probably heat treated.

Just cut it off and replace it with a new one. Cut it off with a abrasive cutoff wheel or a Metabo. Cut almost through and use a clod chisel to finish splitting it off.

 

[Gary Fowler]

If you are good with a torch, you can cut the nut off the shaft without boogering the threads. Just heat the nut quickly and start cutting across the nut working deeper and deeper. When you cut thru the nut you will see the threads and it wont cut them because it is too cold. You need to work quickly so the shaft doesnt soak up the heat. Once you cut one side it should come off. Lots of time, you have to work those nuts back and forth to get the dirt out of the threads. Water may work better than penetrating oil as it wont dissolve dirt. Try working the nut back and forth with a hammer wrench or pipe wrench that you dont mind beating on. Wet it with water and try it some more.

 

[kevinj]

I'd not do that for one reason, you'll ruin the chemistry of the shaft that's probably heat treated.

Just cut it off and replace it with a new one. Cut it off with a abrasive cutoff wheel or a Metabo. Cut almost through and use a clod chisel to finish splitting it off.

You do not heat the shaft to cherry, heat the nut to cherry on the out side and turn it off.

 

[Soundguy]

chissle it around.. if no go.. split it if you have to.

ps.. impact wrench busts stuff loose easier than a straight pull on a B-bar

soundguy

 

[sandman2234]

Heat the nut, and not the shaft, allow to cool enough to work with, then remove. Might use the wax trick on it also, which is to wick candle wax into the groove. By heating and cooling the nut, the differences in temp separate the nut and the shaft, thereby breaking the bond between them.
Above all, PATIENCE!!!!
David from jax

 

[zzvyb6]

Is it a left hand thread? Some of my windmill shafts have perplexed their previous owners until I show them how easy it is to tighten it up ! They have opposite cut threads and hubs.

 

[puckgrinder85]

Like said, you need more heat. Use a bigger tip or something, get the nut to where it starts to glow, hit it with your impact and it will come off. The heat expands the nut, you're not going to transfer enough heat into the shaft to hurt anything as long as its heated fast enough. Cutting the nut off would be a last resort for me.

 

[Soundguy]

there's a certain point whn it becomes easier ( cheaper ) to simply not dink with stuck fasteners and cut them off vs spending an hour to remove one.. etc. BTDT... all up to the operator to decide that threshold..e tc.. last disc and plow I worked on.. If I took an hour per fastener, as it looke dlike it was gonna take. I'd have went broke on heating gas, and still be working on it a year later on the other hand.. 10 mintues cut em all off and 10$ replaced them.

all in perspective of course..

soundguy

 

[Dmace]

PB Blaster!

Spray some, let it sit overnight, spray it again, repeat for 2 or 3 days and it will fall off.

 

[mpham]

To answer your question on 1 inch impact. Most truck or tractor tire stores would have one.

 

[Craig Clayton]

Here is a trick my father told me about removing large nuts that are tight on the shaft and in a difficult position and you do not want to damage the temper or shaft seals.
Take a drill of good quality and drill the lenght of the nut. If you can find the sweat spot then you only need to jump up a small size range and there will be very little meat left. Then use a chisel and split the nut.
A mini dremel with several cutter wheels.
There is a newer 4 1/2" angle grinder disk out that is called a ZIP wheel. These are very thin about 1/16" and you use them like a pizza cutter on thinner metal. I buy they by the 6 pack because they do wear down fast but they are like cutting with a knife.

Craig Clayton

 

[cowski]

just get a 10 ft pipe and use it as a cheater. this will turn it off.it needs to be that tight when you put it back together.you have to hold the gang with a pipe wrench.then turn it with the cheater.i do not think you will need heat.if you feel heat is necessary just heat the nut.

 

[banjodunn]

G'day before you go destroying the nut when removing it pays to check if a new one is available, if so then there are several good ideas here. Have you tried hitting the side of the nut while you have a dolly hammer on the other side, work your way around the nut I have freed things up like that before.


Jon

 

[HCJtractor]

Tried a longer bar but still did not work. I went to a local heavy equipment shop today and they used a 1" impact driver and it spun right off! Cost me $10 for the pair but money well spent. Cheaper than a hernia! Thanks for all of the advice!

 

[Soundguy]

G'day before you go destroying the nut when removing it pays to check if a new one is available, if so then there are several good ideas here. Have you tried hitting the side of the nut while you have a dolly hammer on the other side, work your way around the nut I have freed things up like that before.


Jon

yep, that works too.. you are deforming the nut slightly, ie.. maing it's ID larger.. good idea... have used it many times.

soudnguy

 

[crazyal]

Tried a longer bar but still did not work. I went to a local heavy equipment shop today and they used a 1" impact driver and it spun right off! Cost me $10 for the pair but money well spent. Cheaper than a hernia! Thanks for all of the advice!

I bet it was cheaper than buying a new nut too.

 

[strum456]

Like many have mentioned, PB Blaster works great. There is one product that is cheaper and it works even better. Brake Clean! Try it sometime...what is there to loose?

I usually soak the part with PB as far ahead of time as I can. If that doesn't work then I spray it with brake clean. If that doesn't work, then I heat the part a little and spray it with brake clean and PB. Sometimes I'll repeat heating and spraying quite a few times until it works. I believe the brake clean washes away the rust that would otherwise keep the PB from working.

Obviously, be careful with how much you spray and proper ventilation, because brake clean is quite flamable.

 

[the6shooter]

I had the same problem on a 72" disc too, but it wasn't rust it was the lock washer, man that thing was doing a good job, keeping the nut from comming off. after I got it loosened it pealed off the flat face of the nut. I usuall loose the nut first time out the door.
David