front mount snowblower on L3430

[Max Power]

Hello All

I just purchased a used 3430 with a front mount snow blower (among other things).

I noticed the auger chain was too tight and when I went to adjust it I found the chain gear is out of round. (so as the chain travels it gets tight then loose then tight again) I still haven't determined whether the flange on the auger or the gear is the issue yet. Either way not overly impressed. I also see that there are 5 master-links on the chain indicating that the previous owner had some issues with the unit.

Anyone else come across something like this?

Regards

 

[Gomer]

You don't mention the model of blower you have but I will tell you about my B2782 blower experience.

I started to break sheer pins last year when I would re-engaged the blower after using it for a while. It didn't matter if I the tractor was idling or not. I took the chanin cover off and found the sprocket loose and key starting to wear. The winter season was olmost over so I decide to just spot the allen set screws with a drill and I would fix ti in the summer.

So I tear it apart this summer and the sprocket apparently had been loose for a while as the shaft is worn and the sprocket is worn, the key is worn to about half the size it should be. To replace the shaft is a major deal as it is one piece all the way into the worm drive for the auger. I decided to clean up the shaft, repalce the key, add a set screw to the sprocket an spot the set screws deeper. I then welded the sprocket ro the shaft, figuring someday I will have to deal with this again when the sprocke wears out.

I also found the drive sprocket loose so I disassembled that too and replaced the key(starting to wear)added a set screw, spotted the set screws and used locktite red on them.

This looks to me to be a weak spot in the design of these things. I think welding the sprocket to the shaft isn't a bad idea even if you haven't had a problem yet. In my opinion it is a lot of torque fora key and a set screw to take.

Hope this helps

 

[Max Power]

You don't mention the model of blower you have but I will tell you about my B2782 blower experience.

I started to break sheer pins last year when I would re-engaged the blower after using it for a while. It didn't matter if I the tractor was idling or not. I took the chanin cover off and found the sprocket loose and key starting to wear. The winter season was olmost over so I decide to just spot the allen set screws with a drill and I would fix ti in the summer.

So I tear it apart this summer and the sprocket apparently had been loose for a while as the shaft is worn and the sprocket is worn, the key is worn to about half the size it should be. To replace the shaft is a major deal as it is one piece all the way into the worm drive for the auger. I decided to clean up the shaft, repalce the key, add a set screw to the sprocket an spot the set screws deeper. I then welded the sprocket ro the shaft, figuring someday I will have to deal with this again when the sprocke wears out.

I also found the drive sprocket loose so I disassembled that too and replaced the key(starting to wear)added a set screw, spotted the set screws and used locktite red on them.

This looks to me to be a weak spot in the design of these things. I think welding the sprocket to the shaft isn't a bad idea even if you haven't had a problem yet. In my opinion it is a lot of torque fora key and a set screw to take.

Hope this helps

hi

it is an L2174A, the chain gear bolts onto the auger shaft. I have the mower on right now so I will not mount it until Nov. I loosened the chain and since the auger doesn't spin very fast it should not stop me from using it. I will try to narrow down if it the auger flange or the gear. It is smooth turning and doesn't seem to have any bearing issues.

there is no wear on the chain gear ..looks like new. The tractor only has 360 hours and the blower looks to have been bought with the tractor. 2005 model with mid mount mower loader and scrapper blade. I am guessing the blower didn't see that much use. I picked up the set from a bobcat dealer where the owner traded for a bobcat.


thanks

 

[MHarryE]

Sounds like either a bend auger shaft or sprocket built with excessive hop. Is the sprocket mounted in a way that you can release it (like remove a key or cross bolt) and spin it on the shaft? If so, you can mark the sprocket in 4 places 90 degrees apart, then take a measurement from some place to the frame to the root of the sprocket teeth at each mark. Not knowing your exact drive, I would expect you should find the difference in all 4 measurements to be no more than 0.060". Remember there is going to be some variation - nothing can be built perfect.

 

[Max Power]

Sounds like either a bend auger shaft or sprocket built with excessive hop. Is the sprocket mounted in a way that you can release it (like remove a key or cross bolt) and spin it on the shaft? If so, you can mark the sprocket in 4 places 90 degrees apart, then take a measurement from some place to the frame to the root of the sprocket teeth at each mark. Not knowing your exact drive, I would expect you should find the difference in all 4 measurements to be no more than 0.060". Remember there
is going to be some variation - nothing can be built perfect.

I did do that ..spun the gear 180 (it is bolted to the flange at one end of the auger) ... same thing. I measured to the flange where the bolts hold the gear and they are pretty close. I will probably take the auger off and check the gear. Even if the shaft was bent it would be difficult to have the gear be that far out of round. It looks to be a quarter of an inch out on the gear ...whether that is poorly drilled holes or something else.

thanks

 

[leonz]

A quick way to check the auger is placing a small aluminum level on the tube,
under the auger blades, granted its not perfect because it is still in the worm but it gives you an idea of the problem.

You definitely have an alignment problem that was not corrected as the sprocket not matter who makes it should run true even with wear.

If you can take the old sprocket to farm equipment dealer to match with another sprocket you should buy it and some replacement chain, the one thong that concerns me is whether the sprockets or chain is an H grade and parts are miss-matched with standard grade chain and H sprockets or vice versa.

Sprockets and chain are all SAE and you should plan on replacing them all of them as you also have to spend time on the drive sprocket as the implement was either abused or not maintained.

I keeep hoping the builders of these things will change the the open auger to a solid drum auger which is more efficient and much less likely to be damaged and transmitting those damages to to the shaft ends as it is not possible to do that.

 

[Max Power]

A quick way to check the auger is placing a small aluminum level on the tube,
under the auger blades, granted its not perfect because it is still in the worm but it gives you an idea of the problem.

You definitely have an alignment problem that was not corrected as the sprocket not matter who makes it should run true even with wear.

If you can take the old sprocket to farm equipment dealer to match with another sprocket you should buy it and some replacement chain, the one thong that concerns me is whether the sprockets or chain is an H grade and parts are miss-matched with standard grade chain and H sprockets or vice versa.

Sprockets and chain are all SAE and you should plan on replacing them all of them as you also have to spend time on the drive sprocket as the implement was either abused or not maintained.

I keeep hoping the builders of these things will change the the open auger to a solid drum auger which is more efficient and much less likely to be damaged and transmitting those damages to to the shaft ends as it is not possible to do that.

the sprocket and chain are 60H ...no wear on the sprocket, the chain had 5 master links on it so I would venture that the previous owner had some problems and given the low hours could not have done much work with it.

as to the auger the sprocket is at the bearing so even a bent auger (if it could still turn) would not be out at the hub en unless it was really badly damaged in which case it would be very obvious. ...or never welded on straight and true to begin with.

a bent auger would also show lateral run out not the vertical I have.


thanks

 

[SPYDERLK]

You don't mention the model of blower you have but I will tell you about my B2782 blower experience.

I started to break sheer pins last year when I would re-engaged the blower after using it for a while. It didn't matter if I the tractor was idling or not. I took the chanin cover off and found the sprocket loose and key starting to wear. The winter season was olmost over so I decide to just spot the allen set screws with a drill and I would fix ti in the summer.

So I tear it apart this summer and the sprocket apparently had been loose for a while as the shaft is worn and the sprocket is worn, the key is worn to about half the size it should be. To replace the shaft is a major deal as it is one piece all the way into the worm drive for the auger. I decided to clean up the shaft, repalce the key, add a set screw to the sprocket an spot the set screws deeper. I then welded the sprocket ro the shaft, figuring someday I will have to deal with this again when the sprocke wears out.

I also found the drive sprocket loose so I disassembled that too and replaced the key(starting to wear)added a set screw, spotted the set screws and used locktite red on them.

This looks to me to be a weak spot in the design of these things. I think welding the sprocket to the shaft isn't a bad idea even if you haven't had a problem yet. In my opinion it is a lot of torque fora key and a set screw to take.

Hope this helps

no inherent reason that those issues would break shearpins
larry

 

[Max Power]

no inherent reason that those issues would break shearpins
larry

good point Spiderlk ...it is more like what ever is making the key way wear is causing the shear pins to break not the other way round.

 

[art]

With some uses of snow blower we have found them more prone to breaking shear pins as well as chains.

Chain breakage has been more prevelent in use in hardened banks and shearpin issues have been more prevelent in lumpy conditions. Either way they have not been issues with fresh fallen snow in normal cleared paths and driveway.

There are times that with more immediate snow removal the issues described prior will not be a problem they still can persist.

 

[Max Power]

With some uses of snow blower we have found them more prone to breaking shear pins as well as chains.

Chain breakage has been more prevelent in use in hardened banks and shearpin issues have been more prevelent in lumpy conditions. Either way they have not been issues with fresh fallen snow in normal cleared paths and driveway.

There are times that with more immediate snow removal the issues described prior will not be a problem they still can persist.

thanks

these chains should not be breaking. not if things are set right.

I can see shear pins breaking with aggressive use but the chain should be able to take a lot. (I still haven't used this one and even without doing anything I am sure it will blow snow. Just a little perturbed that it is out of wack as far as being able to set the chain tension. I will just leave set properly at the tight end and let the other half or the rotation be loose.

regards

 

[art]

thanks

these chains should not be breaking. not if things are set right.

I can see shear pins breaking with aggressive use but the chain should be able to take a lot. (I still haven't used this one and even without doing anything I am sure it will blow snow. Just a little perturbed that it is out of wack as far as being able to set the chain tension. I will just leave set properly at the tight end and let the other half or the rotation be loose.

regards

See how it free wheels. this wil give you an idea if and where it might have a flat spot or tight or loose and try and adjust around it.

 

[Max Power]

See how it free wheels. this wil give you an idea if and where it might have a flat spot or tight or loose and try and adjust around it.

it free-wheels fine ...the chain gear (is bolted to the auger flange) is not centered on the flange of the auger or the flange is not centered on the auger shaft (the flange is welded to the shaft). so as it turns the chain gets tight and then loose.

It should handle being a bit loose better then being tight. I will have to take the thing off and check the gear if the bolt holes are off-set.

I am wondering if anyone else has seen this, whether there are QC issues with these blowers.

thanks

 

[Gomer]

no inherent reason that those issues would break shearpins
larry

I beg to differ with you.
The driven sprocket is loose and can chuck back and forth, when you disengage the blower the auger and shaft continues to turn, the sprocket stops, the driven gear is all the way counter-clockwise relative to the shaft (remember I said the key is about half the size it was) when you re-engage the blower the sprocket takes off, shaft does not move until the sprocket moves about 2" which translate to 1/4" at the shaft and key, which is a **** a lot of torque for a little 1/4" grade 8 bolt.
I rest my case.

My point in all this was to get other people with this blower to check their sprockets and keys. I don't think I was any help for the original poster but he did not say what model he had until later in the fight.

 

[Max Power]

I beg to differ with you.
The driven sprocket is loose and can chuck back and forth, when you disengage the blower the auger and shaft continues to turn, the sprocket stops, the driven gear is all the way counter-clockwise relative to the shaft (remember I said the key is about half the size it was) when you re-engage the blower the sprocket takes off, shaft does not move until the sprocket moves about 2" which translate to 1/4" at the shaft and key, which is a **** a lot of torque for a little 1/4" grade 8 bolt.
I rest my case.

My point in all this was to get other people with this blower to check their sprockets and keys. I don't think I was any help for the original poster but he did not say what model he had until later in the fight.

I didn't realize this was a fight !

there are no keys on my blower setup. it is an L2174A* ...not my first time around snow blowers. I used to work on those big ones you see at airports.

...if you are referring to the shear bolt it should be grade 5.

I did take the auger apart and there is a lot of play in the sprocket to shaft and can produce considerable out of round (just in the play on the bolt holes, even though they are not elongated, in my case). It seems the previous owner had the bolts holding the sprocket get loose and fall out or break and then continued to operate the blower (the shaft and sprocket show that the sprocket was turning free on the shaft ....aaaarrrrggg). I got the sprocket square and tightened up the bolts using grade 8 instead of grade 5. If it gets loose again it will be easy enough to drill a couple of extra holes in the sprocket/flange to solve the issue, actually if I get time I will just do that anyhow.


cheers

 

[Gomer]

"I didn't realize this was a fight !"

Sorry, my attempt at humor.

 

[Max Power]

"I didn't realize this was a fight !"

Sorry, my attempt at humor.

.... didn't catch that ...no worries

cheers