New Yanmar Tiller

[woody1940]

I jsut purchased new tines for my Yanmar tiller, the tines are left and right, my tiller did not have tines on it. How are the tines configured where do the lefts go and where do th rights go? do you alternate left, right? I am lost.

Thanks for any help

 

[turnerbend]

Some of the tiller have a diagram on the cover showing how the tine goes. I think if you put them one left and the next right you will come out right. I've seem some 2 right and two left. Put them on and till with it and change as needed.

 

[California]

What model tiller?

Somewhere I have photos of the tine diagram on RS1400 and a later 1300mm Yanmar tiller. It might take me a while to find them. Also, maybe somebody here has a legible diagram on theirs that they can photograph for you.

 

[YanmarFever]

Easy... point the tip of the tine to the side that the nut bolts on.

Remember the bolt head goes in the slot, (not the nut)

That's the factory setting.

 

[winston1]

This is my RS1300N. All the bolts go the same direction. Hope this helps. The sticker came out with a glare. I suppose that is 3 different options. I can't read the Japanese so I don't know. :thumbsup: Just found this. http://www.hoyetractor.com/support/knowledgebase.php?article=48

 

[woody1940]

Thanks alot guys, for the answers. Lot of help

 

[MJPetersen]

Hi woody,


There is a clearer picture of the diagram for the 1300 tiller here.

But Ernie's suggestion seems the easiest and he says original. It seems that the original tillers had variations of the pattern, for different purposes???

Mike

 

[Mickey_Fx]

Here is a pic of the decal on my RS1300.

There are several patterns for the tines depending upon how you want the tiller to handle the dirt. Know one doesn't shift dirt and another shift dirt towards center so when center piece is removed from drag it forms hills. One should be able to figure out how the dirt is handled by looking at the tine pattern.

 

[California]

Here are the legible decals on my RS1400 tiller: Lube, and YM2000 Setup. (The tine decal is illegible.)




Also - tine decal photos for RS1303 and RSB1400(G). On this last one the bolt head is shown in the recess as Ernie said, and as shown in Mickey's photo above.



I have a question: The Lube and Setup decals show the rear wheels installed with the vertical axle supports at the outermost sides of the wheels. I had installed mine with the supports on the inner sides to reduce tearing up my orchard trees when I get too close. But the wheels can only 'steer' a very limited angle in one direction, not enough to prevent ridges/ditches when tilling a tight turn. Are the pins that limit the steering angle of those wheels supposed to be vertical to allow equal swing in either direction, or bent like mine?

 

[turnerbend]

Here are the legible decals on my RS1400 tiller: Lube, and YM2000 Setup. (The tine decal is illegible.)

View attachment 222362 View attachment 222363


Also - tine decal photos for RS1303 and RSB1400(G). On this last one the bolt head is shown in the recess as Ernie said, and as shown in Mickey's photo above.

View attachment 222360 View attachment 222361

I have a question: The Lube and Setup decals show the rear wheels installed with the vertical axle supports at the outermost sides of the wheels. I had installed mine with the supports on the inner sides to reduce tearing up my orchard trees when I get too close. But the wheels can only 'steer' a very limited angle in one direction, not enough to prevent ridges/ditches when tilling a tight turn. Are the pins that limit the steering angle of those wheels supposed to be vertical to allow equal swing in either direction, or bent like mine?

I through the wheel was for depth control of the tiller tines.

 

[California]

Yes the wheels control depth. My little YM186D couldn't quite run this RS1400 tiller until I got the wheels for depth control (thanks rmully!!) because when the front of the tractor hit a sudden rise the tiller went too deep and sometimes brought me to a standstill. Now with the wheels on it, it works perfectly.

These wheels trail like the wheel on a rotary mower. I probably should have said 'trail' instead of 'steer'.

I put the links that go from the axles up to the kingpins, on the inner side, nearer each other, rather on the outer side of the wheels like shown in the diagrams above. I wondered if anyone had compared setting them both ways.

 

[rickatom]

I have a question for you? I just bought a tiller with the wheels, havent had a chance to use it yet. I have to clean it up alittle.
Anyways, i noticed the wheels will onlly turn to a certain point. Are the supposed to also hill the dirt? There is a bolt and nut on the shaft that locks the wheel into a position.

 

[California]

i noticed the wheels will only turn to a certain point.

I puzzled over that too. When I started tilling I found it was easy to get a wheel cocked sideways and gouge a trench as I went along. Greasing the spindle corrected that - I hadn't thought it was necessary. I think the very limited swing range is so the wheel won't flop around too far to recover from, after you lift it.

And note the setup diagram calls for the axle supports, the part that goes down from the spindle to the axle, to be on the outer sides of the tiller. I had put them on the inside so they wouldn't gouge my orchard trees but after a little tilling, that clearly wasn't right. I swapped the wheel/spindle assemblies and that trails better with the supports on the outside.

I like the wheels. I understand later tillers don't include them and they are considered unnecessary, but for me they really help to not to take too big a bite which can stall my smaller tractor when its nose climbs up a sudden rise. (RS1400 tiller intended for 20 hp, used on a 15 pto hp tractor).

 

[rickatom]

So I guess it could be a good thing that the wheels are included. One of them appears the bearing is bad, so we will take apart and see if it can be fixed.
I rained today, so I wasnt able to get out and tinker with it. I am going to soak some bolts with PB blaster and see if it will loosen some old joints. Might even try alittle on myself, lol....

 

[Otisrulez]

My wife translated this sticker. Your earlier posts were pretty accurate. The top tine configuration is for level (flat) tilling. The center for a hill on each side. The bottom for a center hill. Also the other sticker says grease wheel shafts every 50 hours and change the 90 weight gear oil every 200 hours.

Thanks for the info. All my stickers are illegible.

 

[winston1]

View attachment 306043

My wife translated this sticker. Your earlier posts were pretty accurate. The top tine configuration is for level (flat) tilling. The center for a hill on each side. The bottom for a center hill. Also the other sticker says grease wheel shafts every 50 hours and change the 90 weight gear oil every 200 hours.

Thanks for the info. All my stickers are illegible.

Since i like raised rows I decided to configure my tines for a center hill. Picture 1. Picture 2 shows the results. I didn't like the results so I put my tines back in the original "flat" formation and went back over the same area and that is picture 3. Very little difference. If you raise the deflector up it will hill a little more.

I put new tines on as my old ones were so thin out toward the ends I was afraid they were going to start breaking. For what it is worth I can't tell any difference in the results with the old or new tines.