IM600 rotary cutter, any good?

[greg_g]

OK, I am getting a bit confused here. Greg, you posted some great pics in another discussion about the floating bracket.

That FTL bracket is on a completely different mower (a flail actually). Using it to further this discussion only serves to confuse your issue. Specifically; that particular FTL bracket doesn't have the cross piece welded to the parallel links. the photo was taken to demonstrate what happens to the FTL when the tail wheel is much higher than the front of the mower deck - specific to that configuration. Depending upon any given tractor/mower geometry, the toplink and FTL bracket could either be on top of or underneath the mower A-frame. Just depends upon the height & distance relationships between the tractor TPH and the mower A-frame.

I stand by my original descriptions as related to mounting/operating the FTL bracket on the IM-500/600 series rotary cutters.

With regard to the toplink sizing, I may not have been clear. As with the lower links; unless/until you start using other TPH implements, I recommend staying with your current toplink - and simply employing adapter bushings as required.

//greg//

 

[greg_g]

I just know that if it gets flipped any other way, it won't raise the rear of the mower deck very high at all

100% related to my statement that you must size the toplink to the implement/tractor geometry. Your own words indicate that you must have already tried the FTL bracket the way I am advising. Had your toplink been shorter, you might be on my side or this discussion.

//greg//

 

[greg_g]

the reasion his bars are bent is because of how the top link is installed now,

No, I clearly suggested that the previous owner had bent the straps BEFORE realizing that he had the FTL bracket on upside down. It is the only plausible reason that CURDY purchased the mower in it's current configuration. The previous owner realized what I've been saying throughout this entire discussion, and flipped the FTL bracket. Only by that time the strap damage had been done.

//greg//

 

[greg_g]

The bracket is on correct in that pic, however, the toplink is screwed out too long. Ken Sweet

Different mower, different tractor, different FTL bracket, possibly even different length of toplink. You may have jumped in here prematurely Ken.

//greg//

 

[curdy]

Different mower, different tractor, different FTL bracket, possibly even different length of toplink. You may have jumped in here prematurely Ken.

//greg//

Greg, please don't misunderstand me as picking a fight or trying to argue, I'm just trying to make sure I understand here. Isn't this the same mower?

 

[sweettractors]

15-20 in which direction?

If it is vertical, you can only go back. Lockout occurs when you try to go forward. Ken Sweet

 

[curdy]

If it is vertical, you can only go back. Lockout occurs when you try to go forward. Ken Sweet

Ah yeah, duh! :thumbsup:

 

[greg_g]

Greg, please don't misunderstand me as picking a fight or trying to argue, I'm just trying to make sure I understand here. Isn't this the same mower?

Yup, but you're again factoring a much older discussion into the topic. The internet is an evolving thing, and stuff that's retrieved from the past has to be considered in it's historical context. I haven't owned that particular tractor or that mower for years. That posting was before I suffered the damaged toplink threads and bent straps caused by the FTL bracket being upside down. At that time, I was under the same impression as KEBO and REELNATIVE. I'm not sure where Ken's coming from. What I'm posting now is "lessons learned" from that earlier experience.

I can't say with certainty, but my guess is that these other guys are trying to make one toplink do for all their TPH implements. Among other lessons learned over the years, is the tractor/implement geometric relationship.

There's no such thing as a universal toplink. That's why you can buy them in a variety of open/closed lengths. I've had two dozen or more TPH implements over the years, and six different tractors. During that time I've used two hydraulic toplinks and perhaps 7 or 8 different conventional toplinks - and I'll bet at two dozen adapter bushings. I do NOT leave just one toplink on the tractor(s) and hope it will work on any given implement. Rather, I fit the toplink to the tractor/implement geometry - then leave that particular toplink with the implement.

Given that you currently have only one tractor, one implement, one toplink - my advice remains unchanged.

//greg//

 

[curdy]

Yup, but you're again factoring a much older discussion into the topic. The internet is an evolving thing, and stuff that's retrieved from the past has to be considered in it's historical context. I haven't owned that particular tractor or that mower for years. That posting was before I suffered the damaged toplink threads and bent straps caused by the FTL bracket being upside down. At that time, I was under the same impression as KEBO and REELNATIVE. I'm not sure where Ken's coming from. What I'm posting now is "lessons learned" from that earlier experience.

I can't say with certainty, but my guess is that these other guys are trying to make one toplink do for all their TPH implements. Among other lessons learned over the years, is the tractor/implement geometric relationship.

There's no such thing as a universal toplink. That's why you can buy them in a variety of open/closed lengths. I've had two dozen or more TPH implements over the years, and six different tractors. During that time I've used two hydraulic toplinks and perhaps 7 or 8 different conventional toplinks - and I'll bet at two dozen adapter bushings. I do NOT leave just one toplink on the tractor(s) and hope it will work on any given implement. Rather, I fit the toplink to the tractor/implement geometry - then leave that particular toplink with the implement.

Given that you currently have only one tractor, one implement, one toplink - my advice remains unchanged.

//greg//

Greg, that's very helpful to know, thanks.

 

[greg_g]

Greg, that's very helpful to know, thanks.

You're welcome. Add to that the fact that there are at least 4 different designs/styles of FTL brackets. The trick is to match the correct toplink length with the implement in play AND with the particular FTL bracket it may employ.

In your case - if your FTL bracket is pulled 100% horizontal just before the toplink is screwed all the way in, you're good to go. And the only reason to position the FTL bracket in the vertical position above the A-frame is if there are "ears" on the cross piece, Without those "ears", you can rotate it 180 degrees and still mow. That is; still vertical - but down inside the A-frame rather than pointing straight up above it.

//greg//