IM600 rotary cutter, any good?

[reelnative]

Yup, but you're again factoring a much older discussion into the topic. The internet is an evolving thing, and stuff that's retrieved from the past has to be considered in it's historical context. I haven't owned that particular tractor or that mower for years. That posting was before I suffered the damaged toplink threads and bent straps caused by the FTL bracket being upside down. At that time, I was under the same impression as KEBO and REELNATIVE. I'm not sure where Ken's coming from. What I'm posting now is "lessons learned" from that earlier experience.

I can't say with certainty, but my guess is that these other guys are trying to make one toplink do for all their TPH implements. Among other lessons learned over the years, is the tractor/implement geometric relationship.

There's no such thing as a universal toplink. That's why you can buy them in a variety of open/closed lengths. I've had two dozen or more TPH implements over the years, and six different tractors. During that time I've used two hydraulic toplinks and perhaps 7 or 8 different conventional toplinks - and I'll bet at two dozen adapter bushings. I do NOT leave just one toplink on the tractor(s) and hope it will work on any given implement. Rather, I fit the toplink to the tractor/implement geometry - then leave that particular toplink with the implement.

Given that you currently have only one tractor, one implement, one toplink - my advice remains unchanged.

//greg//

I can't say with certainty, but my guess is that these other guys are trying to make one toplink do for all their TPH implements. Among other lessons learned over the years, is the tractor/implement geometric relationship.

no im trying to tell this man how to use the top link he has the way it is supp to be used, and your talking around in circles like a used car sales man trying to sell me a pinto, because you know or I hope you know your wrong, the top floating link he has is the one that came with his bh from the factory just like the one on my bh that is the same unit as his,

 

[greg_g]

your talking around in circles like a used car sales man trying to sell me a pinto

Ok sport, I've stated my case with accuracy and consistency. Since you're so hot to hijack this topic - it's all yours.

//greg//

 

[curdy]

Alrighty, let's see if I can get things back on track here a bit...

I have the mower upright and I've taken the blades off to get better access to tighten down the gear housing. I was surprised to see that the castle nut was loose. The cotter pin was still good. How tight should that castle nut be when I put things back together? There was also something wrapped around the shaft that looks maybe like its a tine from a baler or tedder. At least that's my guess...at first I thought it was some sort of spring that belongs on the mower and got wrecked, but I don't know of any mower that has something like that. I'll get a pic up later.

 

[greg_g]

Alrighty, let's see if I can get things back on track here a bit....

Good for you !!

Obviously remove whatever wrapped itself around there, it can do nothing to improve performance. I've only owned two IM-series (an IM500 and an IM602) and the castle nut was not typically torqued down. It's actually the splines that do all the work, the nut just keeps them mated. I took mine off regularly, since it's much easier to drop the whole middle assembly to remove/sharpen/replace blades that way. When I reinstalled it, I didn't even use a wrench. I got it finger tight to the closest pin hole, pinned it, then went back to mowing.

//greg//

 

[curdy]

Got some good mowing in over the last couple of days. Then I had a bit of an issue. The top link came apart at some point and I didn't notice. I think I just extended one end too far by accident when I was adjusting the length. I found this out when I went to raise up the deck and it only went 1/2 way up. I looked back and saw the top link apart. I tried to raise the lift arms again and then still stopped 1/2 way. It looks like the PTO shaft isn't telescoping anymore and is stopping the arms from raising all of the way. I did confirm that the shaft isn't telescoping when I was unhooking the mower I took the 3 point off and tried to extend the shaft. No-go.

Now the shaft was already bent a little when I got the mower, but it did move with some effort. Its missing its guard too, and I'm wondering if its just easier to replace it. I did get an extra shaft from the guy I bought the tractor from, but not sure if it telescopes. I'll take a picture of is and maybe you guys can tell me. The one I got with the tractor is missing a grease zerk and looks pretty dirty inside. Would it be a good idea to clean it out somehow, or just throw a zerk on it and grease her up?

How expensive are the replacement shafts, and where would I look?

Thanks!