IM600 rotary cutter, any good?

[greg_g]

Yup, I see oil stains at the base. Get a vented fill plug for the top, then use diesel fuel or WD40 to clean off the stains. If they don't reappear, your job is done. If they do, you'll need a new bottom seal. And since you have to remove the gear box to change it, you may as well do the horizontal shaft seal while you're at it.

The arms are bent like that because the previous owner didn't know how to use the flexible toplink bracket. The way you have it right now (in that photo) is the carry position. When you get to where you're going to mow, you lengthen the toplink so that the flexible bracket is pointing straight up. That way the bracket will float as the rear tire goes up and down. That takes all the stress off those straps. If you want, the buckled straps can be heated and straightened.

TractorData is a bit confusing regarding the rear hitch. I'm not sure how to interpret "Cat 2/1". Unless/until you buy more attachments for that tractor, I think you should just take up the slack with adapter bushings. And from the photos, the hole in the floating toplink bracket looks too large for the pin you're using too. If that's a standard 3/4" Cat 1 pin, you might want to consider a bushing there too.

//greg//

 

[kebo]

Bought the mower. I haven't had the opportunity to use it yet though, but should soon. I do have to tighten down the gearbox a bit first. I'll get some pics up soon.

Thanks everyone for the very helpful advice!

Good deal! I think you will be satisfied with that BH. I know I'm satisfied with mine. I gotta tell you though, I think the floating link on the top of your 3PH is mounted wrong!!!! When I bought my IM502, the floating link was installed wrong on mine too and the 3pt lift could only raise the tail wheel about 20 inches off the ground, at most. I finally figured out that the floating link has that small piece of flat stock welded to it for two reasons. When it is positioned the correct way, it will allow the lift to pick up the BH much higher, but will still allow the deck to float, as long as your top link is properly adjusted. See the picture I attached of mine, after I figured out it was wrong, and repositioned it the way it should be. At least, I'm pretty sure yours should be installed the same way but if I'm wrong, it won't hurt anything to try it. I think once you try it, you will see how it should work.

Btw, those two long pieces of flat stock that attach from the top link down to the rear of the deck are also bent on my BH. Although, my two bars bowed slightly to the outside. If I were you, I would "semi-straighten" them out and have them bow to the outside for better side to side stability. They need some curve in them cause they will flex a good bit when you raise/lower the deck. Good luck with it!

 

[reelnative]

I just went back and looked at your pics and your floating link is on backwards the part that is solid needs to be on the bottom and you need to adjust your top link when your mowing so the floating link is at a 45% angle facing the back of the bh, it will give you more play and let the wheel move more freely over bumps , and when its time to load it up or move, then you adjust the float link to starit up and down and you will be able to lift it high

 

[curdy]

Great, thanks guys for all the help! I was looking at that part when I was buying it and something just seemed wrong with it. With no prior experience setting up a mower like this, I couldn't reference anything, but my gut was telling me it wasn't right.

Does my idea of getting a cat 2 top link not make sense? I figured I'm going to have to reduce down the draft links anyway, I might as well match the top link. If the time should come that I need to borrow something from a neighbor and its cat 2, I wouldn't think I'd be able to use it with a cat 1 top link right? You can always reduce down 2 to 1, but can't size up 1 to 2. I have to head to the store tomorrow to get the other bushings anyway, so now would be the time to exchange the top link if that makes more sense to get the cat 2.

 

[reelnative]

i forgot one last thing is if you store it outside you will need to drill weep holes were the brace bars intersect that way water will drain off of it and it wont rust

 

[curdy]

i forgot one last thing is if you store it outside you will need to drill weep holes were the brace bars intersect that way water will drain off of it and it wont rust

Good point, I do plan to keep inside though. Nice paint job btw. Why not change to orange to match Orange and black is a great combo...or maybe that's just me being biased as a Flyers fan :laughing:

 

[reelnative]

well i was going to because my 3054 is fla gators orange and blue, but the paint on the bh was still like new no scrapes or anything but it was sun faded, and the rustiolum orange that matches our tractors is 4.00 a can at walmart, and the red that matched the red was 98 cents a can at wallie world, and i figured the hog will get scrapes being used and dropping 98 cents to make it look new every month would be cheeper, it took 8 cans to do 2 coats so its an 8.00 paint job hahahah

 

[greg_g]

I have to disagree with KEBO and REELNATIVE as to the mounting of the floating toplink bracket (FTL). The way you two guys have yours mounted will (if it hasn't already) damage the threads on the implement end of the toplink. You'll lose (or have already lost) the ability to adjust the toplink length. It's also why your straps have bent.

The correct way is as shown in CURDYs photo. For transport, shorten the toplink until the FTL is facing the tractor (as shown). That pulls on the straps to lift the tail wheel. Pulling straightens them. For mowing, lengthen the toplink until the FTL is facing straight up. That takes the straps out of the equation. Once in the straight up position, the FTL will then pivot toward the tractor when the tailwheel drops, and away from the tractor when the tailwheel rises. No stress in either direction on the straps.

//greg//

 

[reelnative]

I have to disagree with KEBO and REELNATIVE as to the mounting of the floating toplink bracket (FTL). The way you two guys have yours mounted will (if it hasn't already) damage the threads on the implement end of the toplink. You'll lose (or have already lost) the ability to adjust the toplink length. It's also why your straps have bent.

The correct way is as shown in CURDYs photo. For transport, shorten the toplink until the FTL is facing the tractor (as shown). That pulls on the straps to lift the tail wheel. Pulling straightens them. For mowing, lengthen the toplink until the FTL is facing straight up. That takes the straps out of the equation. Once in the straight up position, the FTL will then pivot toward the tractor when the tailwheel drops, and away from the tractor when the tailwheel rises. No stress in either direction on the straps.

//greg//

dude your way out in left field in his pic the float is on upside down, the part that is hitting his threds is supp to be on the bottom, that flat pc stops the float from going too far forward so you can lift the hog up when you tighten the link for transpo, the float needs to be at a 45% angle facing the back when mowing it takes the top link out of the equasion and lets the back tire float over bumps and the link moves freely, his straps are bent from it being used the way he bought it and there was no play when it hit a bump and the weekest part bent IE the straps, but you dont have to belive me you can go to any hog website and look at how to mount it, thats how I learned about it

 

[greg_g]

dude your way out in left field

Beg to differ. As previously stated, I owned an IM-602 for years. Following your recommended configuration will result in irreparable damage to the toplink threads and exert unintended stress (pushing) on the straps. It's that pushing action that bends them - they're only intended to pull. And the thread damage will occur every time the tail wheel rises high enough for the threads to make contact with the pin.

Yes, if you mount it upside down (from my perspective) the metal cross piece performs a lift function. But in doing so you subject the toplink and straps to unnecessary stress and damage. Mounted on the tractor end as I describe, that cross piece merely keeps the pinned bars parallel. Maybe it would become more clear if you equate it to the U-type FTLs. Except on the U-type, the part that keeps the side bars parallel is on the implement end. In the end, the design intent is strictly to keep the bars parallel, not to lift.

The mounting method I describe (vertical while mowing) permits the FTL to swing an unimpeded 90 degree arc (45 degree forward and 45 degree rearward) in sync with the rise and fall of the tail wheel. At no time will the threads of the toplink touch metal, and there is no pushing force on the straps. When the mowing is finished, the toplink is shortened so that the FTL is horizontal. That permits the mower to be raised higher off the ground for transport, and exerts the intended pulling force on the straps.

That said, it's important that the toplink be sized appropriately to the tractor-mower combination. One that's too long will be problematic in getting the FTL horizontal for transport. One that's too short will be problematic in getting the FTL vertical for mowing.

//greg//