JD 2305 3ph falling apart??

[D33r3 6r33N]

I found the washer in the pictures on the pull behind hitch before I hooked up the tiller this afternoon, I found out where it came from when the upper right pin in the 3ph fell out when I was almost done tilling the garden.
My question is could it be something that I am doing to chew that washer up like that? I just put the 91st hour on it this afternoon. Looks like that the washer and the cotter pin did battle until the cotter pin lost? I did a quick check of the others and they don't anything like that. I used a pin that I had in the cupholder, (anyone use them for there intended use?) for the quick repair.

 

[North Country]

Where did the washer come from? My upper right pin doesn't look like that - it has a "D" head and a linch pin - it has a much lower profile and doesn't stick out nearly as far to either side. I also don't have a washer that size involved.

 

[beenthere]

Agree with question of North Country.
Don't understand why the washer was there in the first place?

Any more info on the history?

 

[Gizmo2]

Where did the washer come from? My upper right pin doesn't look like that - it has a "D" head and a linch pin - it has a much lower profile and doesn't stick out nearly as far to either side. I also don't have a washer that size involved.

The pin in the picture was in his cupholder and he used it for a quick fix.

 

[North Country]

I got the impression that the L-pin was already installed and the linch pin replaced the missing cotter pin. it still doesn't explain the source of the washer.

It looks like rotary damage to the washer - something was spinning next to it, or it was spinning next to something.

 

[Gator6x4]

I found the washer in the pictures on the pull behind hitch before I hooked up the tiller this afternoon, I found out where it came from when the upper right pin in the 3ph fell out when I was almost done tilling the garden.
My question is could it be something that I am doing to chew that washer up like that? I just put the 91st hour on it this afternoon. Looks like that the washer and the cotter pin did battle until the cotter pin lost? I did a quick check of the others and they don't anything like that. I used a pin that I had in the cupholder, (anyone use them for there intended use?) for the quick repair.

Just my thoughts. It appears to me that the lifting link/adjusting/ rod needs to be turned 90 degrees in photo number 2. I would remove the pins, rotate the attaching part ninety degrees and see if the geometry improved.It appears the way the rod is currently attached stress is occuring as the three points goes up and down.

 

[North Country]

Here's my guess: the L-pin you're using is too long. The washer was between the cotter pin and the lift arm link. Each time you raised and lowered the 3ph, it scraped on the PTO shield and produced 1 gouge in the washer. The washer naturally rattled and turned in between each time it was raised and lowered, thus the radial pattern of scratches. Eventually the cotter pin got beat up so much it failed.

Get the correct length (shorter) D-head pin from your dealer. It should fix the problem. Here are two photos of my setup.


The lift arm link can't be turned 90 or 180 degrees - that is the correct orientation.

 

[D33r3 6r33N]

This is what the other side looks like with the OEM parts. The D pin you can hardly tell in the picture but looks like to me that the "D" and the stopper welded there are not working as planned. I can see where the supposed to be flat side is not flat as they have been beating around on each other, so it is almost a round pin.

 

[North Country]

I'm not sure how critical is is to have the flat of the D if you're using cotter pins and not linch pins. In any case, as long as it doesn't rotate you're fine - it doesn't get a lot of rotational stress. Did the other side have the "D before it fell out or was it the "L" we see in the pictures?

I use linch pins because the 3ph arms go on and off often to get the backhoe on & off. If I didn't have a backhoe I'd use cotter pins.

 

[D33r3 6r33N]

The both sides were the same until it broke.

 

[North Country]

The both sides were the same until it broke.

Then I'm stumped.

 

[D33r3 6r33N]

Then I'm stumped.

Me too, I don't understand how one side can be all chewed up to the point that it breaks and the other side look just fine.

Now, I'm going to hijack my own thread. How often should I have to mess with the 3ph height? Seems like I have to level it out more often than I should. To me the jam nut should be on the bottom, not the top? But like I said I only have 90 hours of tractoring under my belt.

 

[North Country]

I mess with it every time I use it, but I'm always messing with the angle of the implement. Sometimes I'm trying to set the chipper down flat, sometimes I'm angling the box blade, sometimes the ditch cutter needs tweaking. I can tell you the setting I need is never the same as the last setting I used. I'm really seriously considering top&tilt...

 

[Cidertom]

Re: different type of hitch:
Lets look at the types of 3 point hitchs:
Position: Holds a absolute point in referance to the tractor: As it leaks down, it will repoistion it's self to maintain a level according to the tractor. A two foot furrow will be a two foot furrow on level ground. As the tractor noses down, the plow comes up. Etc.

Draft: Holds it's poisition to a reference point to the tool. The tool makes the reference. A 2ft furrow will be a two foot deep furrow. (within reason)

Set: the tool "stays" where you put it. Like the Position, but it won't self maintain. As it leaks down the depth increases.

 

[D33r3 6r33N]

Thanks guys.