Cleaning chain saw methods

[sailorman]

I 've got a stihl ms250c . What methods, stuff, and cleaning solvents do ya 'll use to cleanup the saw after use ? Like when the bar and chain are off and ya gotta get rid of all the junk/gunk that has accumulated .

 

[SandburRanch]

A wet/dry shop vac nozzle in close proximity to a 2 inch nylon paint brush gets them as clean as I need them cleaned. That leaves a coating of oil so things don't rust.

 

[beenthere]

I do as Sandbur says, and for cleaning the stain on the bar and other parts I use Simple Green. Oil it well after cleaning. Don't have a problem with rust.

 

[BoFuller]

I knock out the big stuff with an old toothbrush and then I spray it down with WD40.

 

[Carykong]

diesel and/or kerosene with a parts brush cleaner.

 

[dlmpsy]

For hard to reach areas, I have used a non-chlorinated brake cleaner.

 

[MMagis]

I’ve heard it all now.

 

[BethesdaEC]

I keep mine in a hermetically sealed, climate controlled glass case where it can't get exposed to dirty or dust. :laughing:

Seriously you clean them, I hit mine with an air compressor nozzle every now and then when I change the chain.

 

[kco]

I keep mine in a hermetically sealed, climate controlled glass case where it can't get exposed to dirty or dust. :laughing:

Seriously you clean them, I hit mine with an air compressor nozzle every now and then when I change the chain.

My thoughts too.

If it gets too clogged up around the saw sprocket I loosen it with a screw driver and shake it out and/or use some air. I do use a rag to clean around the gas tank cap and chain oil cap before filling so I don't get dirt in those openings.

When cleaning the air filter I protect the carb opening with my thumb and blast the area with air to keep grime from the linkages. I also blast a bit of carb cleaner in after cleaning the airfilter.

My Stihl 028 is over 20 years old, gets a lot of use, and has never given a problem. I do have it serviced at the local dealer every two or three years so he can check it thoroughly. He really knows saws and it runs as good as new (if not better) after he has worked on it.

But he never removes the stains or buffs-out the scratches.

 

[jdtractor]

all you need is compressed air ,i clean mine with approx. 75-100lbs air pressure , run a small putty knife or bar cleaning tool down the groove to remove saw dustoil combination etc............ and air also works real good . use a rag around gas etc ...... put it back together!

 

[sailorman]

I keep mine in a hermetically sealed, climate controlled glass case where it can't get exposed to dirty or dust. :laughing:

Seriously you clean them, I hit mine with an air compressor nozzle every now and then when I change the chain.

Sounds like a good idea to me ! Maybe I can seal up the tree trunks too with a vacuum suction device. That way they won 't rot until I get to them .

Not lookin' to make it factory new which it ain 't. Just want to get the big junks of gunk, grit, and dirt ( yep kinda hard to keep it out of the dirt sometime ) out . :thumbsup:

 

[Snaker]

I knock out the big stuff with an old toothbrush and then I spray it down with WD40.

The old toothbrush for sure. I swap out the chains when dull. At that time I do a quick clean. I use the tools screwdriver end to break loose big chunks. The only thing I get real picky about is to carefully clean the oil passage area. I made a wire tool that I use to scrape the bar channels and cleanout the oil passage holes and bar tip sprocket grease holes on the Husky. I wouldn't mess around down behind the drive sprocket too much because if you ding the crankshaft seal it could cost you a engine teardown. I flip the bar over when I swap chains.

I always pick up a spare air cleaner when i get a saw. When I swap the chain, I also check the air cleaner and swap out if dirty. I find that having a clean filter handy cuts down on the procrastination.

 

[Army grunt]

I use wd40 an a toss away 2"paint brush.
Army Grunt

 

[Jeff Lary]

I use cheep carburator or brake cleaner on the inside of the chain cover and compressed air and a small tip flat screwdriver in the bar slot been using this way all my life (since 1982 with the same saw ) works good for me.

 

[Jeff Lary]

I use cheep carburator or brake cleaner on the inside of the chain cover and compressed air and a small tip flat screwdriver in the bar slot been using this way all my life and (since 1982 with the same saw ) works good for me.

 

[Redbug]

I use the air compressor nozzle on mine. Occasionally I take the bar and air cleaner off and spray it down good with Gunk degreaser. Then I hose it off good, (holding my thumb over the carb throat). Then shake most of the water off and let it dry overnight and put it back together.

 

[ultrarunner]

I have the same saw and noticed cutting oak that the chain will freeze up if I don't clean or lube it immediately after use.

Something about the oak that gets into the links and drys hard.

I have not had this problem with other woods...

So, liberal use of WD-40 on the chain at the end of the day.

 

[sailorman]

I have the same saw and noticed cutting oak that the chain will freeze up if I don't clean or lube it immediately after use.

Something about the oak that gets into the links and drys hard.

I have not had this problem with other woods...

So, liberal use of WD-40 on the chain at the end of the day.

I 've noticed the same thing .

 

[moored4]

Seriously you clean them, I hit mine with an air compressor nozzle every now and then when I change the chain.

Air compressor some times if I'm at the shop. Changing chains I might splash a little deisel on it if its cool and then blow it down with the Air compressor!

 

[moored4]

Oh! There is another way that I have cleaned them! :thumbsup: When they won't start and I have worked on them till 'I'm blue in the face', I'll take it to the saw shop and the when they tell me 'no go' I buy a new one! Yep it's now nice and clean!! :laughing: :laughing: