mars1952
Silver Member
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2007
- Messages
- 238
- Location
- Western North Carolina
- Tractor
- 1999 John Deere 4300 12/12 sync-reverse
Installing Diesel Motor???
- Thread starter Boeing
- Start date
- Views: 15728
What about options to improve the mileage of the Blazer? Drop some weight (bumpers, cab, add aluminum manifold, remove seats and glass, etc). Get a newer carburetor and manifold to go with 2 barrel operation. Run high pressure low rolling resistance tires. 0.304 rear end gear. Pinchout brakes. High temperature thermostat. Fuel economy cam. Straight exhaust. Lower cab height, tupperware skirts and air dams. All these things reduce fuel usage.
You could also consider knocking out 4 cylinders and running only on the other 4. This was an option GM was working on in the '70s by putting a flapper valve in the intake plenum. The manifolds are designed with 2 sets of runners. By shutting off 1 runner from the carb, you feed only air to it. You could make it manually operated such that in case of necessity, it could be switched back in.
You could also consider knocking out 4 cylinders and running only on the other 4. This was an option GM was working on in the '70s by putting a flapper valve in the intake plenum. The manifolds are designed with 2 sets of runners. By shutting off 1 runner from the carb, you feed only air to it. You could make it manually operated such that in case of necessity, it could be switched back in.
gengine
Platinum Member
Maybe someone can confirm it, but I think I remember the 6.2l GM diesel block is a 350 cu. in. block, just different other parts. The 6.5l GM diesel is also the same block, different stroke and a turbo. Both are mechanical motors, and the weight isn't too much different. The idea of a tractor engine mod is pretty cool, but way past my patience. I think you will find one of those two will be a better fit for you. Put a solinoid on the inner fender for with a switch on the dash for glow plugs, fuel filter swap, and maybe a little research for your fuel tank, and I think it could be done. We bought a '84 gmc with a 6.2l diesel for $2500 last winter. You can find them pretty often for prices like that. The glow plugs are a pain to change, being located under the exhaust manifolds. We used to swap the 6.2l's for the turbo 6.5l's in Humvee's when I was in the Army. Overall, motor wise, the 350 should be a bolt in for the 6.2l or the 6.5l. The fuel filter and housing I picked up at Napa, I don't remember the price. The solinoid is also a very common Napa item.
I drove a 6.2L '83 Suburban for about 150K miles. It had a 700R4 Trans. If you drove less that 65-68 on the highway, it would get right at 30mpg. Nearly that in city driving too. I pulled a lightly loaded two axle Uhaul from CT to PA and MPG dropped to 29. With a 40 gallon tank, the range was incredible. My longest single tank trip was Grand Rapids, MI to Ft. Bragg, NC, about 900 miles. One tank of fuel, one potty stop, and 1/4 tank of fuel remaining on arrival. I pulled cars on trailers with it, campers, all kind of stuff. Patience is key, it was a DOG.
All of those factory parts are available for your swap. The Army had a bazillion of them, CUCVs, and they are showing up in parts yards all over here.
I drove the truck out from around that motor. At 275K, the truck was done, the motor was not. It is in someone else's project right now.
All of those factory parts are available for your swap. The Army had a bazillion of them, CUCVs, and they are showing up in parts yards all over here.
I drove the truck out from around that motor. At 275K, the truck was done, the motor was not. It is in someone else's project right now.
I pulled/swapped allot of 6.2 for 6.5's in my Army days. Prior to that I helped my dad put our diesel chevette motor into 3 different chassis (kept wearing out the cars but not the motor). A 6.2 or the better 6.5 Turbo weighs nearly the same as a bigblock. Ive only swapped in 1 6.5 in place of a 350 and it was relativly easy. Needed bigblock motor mounts, new fuel tank, new fuel lines and a hydro booster (astro van ones work). Bolt pattern is the same as other chavy small/big blocks but you will need a diesel starter.
As for power and milage... the 6.2's will get you the best milage but you can barely get out of your own way (hence why we swapped them out for 6.5's in the Hummers). They live forever and you can get hummer take outs with under 20k miles for under $1000. Ive seen them on CL for $500.
6.5's came in mechanical versions that are the easiest to swap. Great reliabilty and the turbo version can make some big power numbers. My guess would be you could see 25mpg. Prolly total swap cost could be done for under $2000 depending what you can get donor parts for.
if you switch to diesel, just grab some 2500/3500 front springs and you should be good.
As for power and milage... the 6.2's will get you the best milage but you can barely get out of your own way (hence why we swapped them out for 6.5's in the Hummers). They live forever and you can get hummer take outs with under 20k miles for under $1000. Ive seen them on CL for $500.
6.5's came in mechanical versions that are the easiest to swap. Great reliabilty and the turbo version can make some big power numbers. My guess would be you could see 25mpg. Prolly total swap cost could be done for under $2000 depending what you can get donor parts for.
if you switch to diesel, just grab some 2500/3500 front springs and you should be good.
OP
Boeing
Platinum Member
Alot of interestng info here.....I agree with most of you that changing to a diesel would cost more than the project would ever be worth.
I WOULD consider selling this Blazer. I'll enclose some photos..
It had been my "Baby" for years, I put a "crate" engine in it about 4 years ago, headers, torque cam, holley, electronic ign, new 'vertable top, wheels, glass hood, 4" lift springs, 700R overdrive tranny and transfer case out of a '87 Blazer , new leather buckets and it was looking good.
BUT....(always a butt) Old man RUST came around, bottom of doors, L.door POST, front of L quarter panel and bottom of tailgate. Being the brilliant financial strategist that I am I ordered new quarter panels, new doors, arizona door post and tailgate (no rust) and I hired a local drunk who convinced me that he was a retired body man to do the work. My BM (bodyman?) proceeded to remove the fenders, doors, rollbar, tailgate...tack weld the quarter panels on and after collecting $1200 of money....disappear. The truck has sat for almost a year now....sad, depressed begging me to get someone to finish the job. I start it monthly and added "staybil" to the tank. It is in Columbus Ga now but could be towed, trailered or putting the tail lights back on....driven.
Ideas....suggestions hire no more BUMS, right?
I WOULD consider selling this Blazer. I'll enclose some photos..
It had been my "Baby" for years, I put a "crate" engine in it about 4 years ago, headers, torque cam, holley, electronic ign, new 'vertable top, wheels, glass hood, 4" lift springs, 700R overdrive tranny and transfer case out of a '87 Blazer , new leather buckets and it was looking good.
BUT....(always a butt) Old man RUST came around, bottom of doors, L.door POST, front of L quarter panel and bottom of tailgate. Being the brilliant financial strategist that I am I ordered new quarter panels, new doors, arizona door post and tailgate (no rust) and I hired a local drunk who convinced me that he was a retired body man to do the work. My BM (bodyman?) proceeded to remove the fenders, doors, rollbar, tailgate...tack weld the quarter panels on and after collecting $1200 of money....disappear. The truck has sat for almost a year now....sad, depressed begging me to get someone to finish the job. I start it monthly and added "staybil" to the tank. It is in Columbus Ga now but could be towed, trailered or putting the tail lights back on....driven.
Ideas....suggestions hire no more BUMS, right?
Attachments
stick a diesel in it! you can get a wreck donor for cheap or check CL and find someone parting out a truck with a 6.5. I would bet for under $2000 you could have a good running diesel truck.
If you want some work but also want some major power, find a 5.9 cummins either a 12v or a 24v. The 12v mechanical would be "easier" and can still produce allot of power. Way harder than a drop in Chevy but worth it.
If you want some work but also want some major power, find a 5.9 cummins either a 12v or a 24v. The 12v mechanical would be "easier" and can still produce allot of power. Way harder than a drop in Chevy but worth it.
dixstir
Silver Member
years ago I had a 1956 chevy half ton pickup and I put a 4 cylinder iszue diesel in used a 57 chevy 3 speed overdrive manual trans what a good set up put over 300 thousand miles it had lots of power and got 35 miles to a gallon god I wish I still had it.
OP
Boeing
Platinum Member
Wow, now that was a good conversion. I had an Isuzu sedan diesel years ago....40MPG. hmmm....had kids and sold it. bummer. It would be GREAT in a smaller pickup
OP
Boeing
Platinum Member
I was just on a military surplus site that had 6.2 Diesel BLAZERS.....1985 (I think). They wanted $6000. Is that high? What kind of mileage life is acceptable? If they have 100,000 miles is that acceptable for $6K? Can a turbo be put on a 6.2 or will that eat bearings?:confused2:
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